Thunderbird is go

[T-Bay]

The miller in a drill was only used for the shaping on the back (pic 2) but was surprisingly effective. The router I use is a beast but with no variable speed which didn’t help. I might try a burr bit as well next time and see how that compares.

[Norris]

59 minutes ago, T-Bay said:

The miller in a drill was only used for the shaping on the back (pic 2) but was surprisingly effective. The router I use is a beast but with no variable speed which didn’t help. I might try a burr bit as well next time and see how that compares.

I've just bought myself a Makita RT0700CX4 (which they describe as a trimmer) for that same reason. The lighter weight and adjustable speed is far better for hand-held guitar building purposes. Also that particular model comes with side bearing guide that is ideal for routing the rebate for binding.

Edited March 17, 2018 by Norris

[Si600]

On 17/03/2018 at 11:50, Jimothey said:

That’s a good method if you don’t feel comfortable using a router but if you make up a jig I find using a router the easiest way of doing things as you can keep a consistent depth and the cut will be cleaner 

What you said about climb milling is right as if you use that method you run the risk of losing control of the router as the cutter is trying to push away from the piece of timber and you should never attempt to climb cut with a non-bearing cutter but I do climb cutting when I’ve rounded of the edge of the body using conventional cutting then go back over it climb cutting as it cleans the edge up really well 

Its starting to take shape now and looking really good!!!.......

When I was young and foolish I tried to take far too much off a block of mild steel on the wrong side.  The cutter disintegrated and the lump of mild was flung across the workshop.  Dad was a mixture of relieved that no personal injury had happened, miffed at the loss of a cutter and mildly amused at the learning experience.

[SpondonBassed]

3 hours ago, Si600 said:

When I was young and foolish I tried to take far too much off a block of mild steel on the wrong side.  The cutter disintegrated and the lump of mild was flung across the workshop.  Dad was a mixture of relieved that no personal injury had happened, miffed at the loss of a cutter and mildly amused at the learning experience.

That'd have been a milling machine I suppose?  Try leaving the chuck key in a lathe for laffs.

[Si600]

Yep, Elliott Omnimill 00.

I have yet to leave the chuck key in anything, but I saw it happen at college.  Well, I say saw, but none of us actually saw anything, we just heard the bang as it ricocheted off the ceiling.

Edited March 19, 2018 by Si600

[T-Bay]

[T-Bay]

Had a little time yesterday so finished off the control cavity. I also did a little more sanding. I then tried the dye I bought on an offcut. Sadly the colour is awful, on a light wood it works well but is just muddy and horrible on the darker wood. So the quest for a finish continues. I have looked at both oiled and lacquered finishes. The lacquer has won out because I have the option of going for a solid colour at a later date should I decide to. 

A set of hip shot ultralites are on their way to me. They are 1/2 type, I don’t think they will fit on my Gibson or I would swap them over and use the Gibson ones on this. Build costs are adding up but it’s been a lot of fun so far.

[T-Bay]

Forgot to say that I noe have a couple of weeks where nothing will happen again but it’s getting close now.

[SpondonBassed]

Good thinking with regard to the finish.

My sympathy on mounting costs.  Did you set a budget or did you set out hoping you wouldn't scare yourself too early in the process?

[T-Bay]

I never had a budget in mind but was minded to do it on a budget. Then I thought about and really wanted that Thunderbird sound, so a set of genuine pick ups was acquired, from then it seemed stupid to put cheap stuff on. I think I am around £230 at the moment and will be £260-280 when finished but that will be with genuine pickups, KiOgon custom loom, hipshot ultralights, decent heavyweight bridge so a decent spec.

I barely drink, don’t smoke etc etc so see it as my hobby expenditure and have really loved doing it.

[Norris]

It does help to spread the cost when your build takes time to do. However then when a bit looks tidy and you've done a good job of it, the budget starts creeping up too . Sub-300 is still pretty "budget" for a self build. Well done

[Jimothey]

14 minutes ago, Norris said:

Sub-300 is still pretty "budget" for a self build

The most expensive build I’ve done so far is £90 

[T-Bay]

I could have done similar price wise but I didn’t see the point, all the main bits apart from the loom are second hand so I could sell for what they cost if I ever chose to (doubt I will). Based on new prices there are about £600 in bits in there. I am not looking to make a super cheap bass, eBay and Gumtree are littered with them for little cash and no hassle. I wanted to make something worth having with the pleasure of knowing I had made it (well most of it) myself.

[Jimothey]

The way I look at it is my playing isn’t up to the standard of needing to play a expensive quality bass so when I get better and need a better quality bass (for gigging etc) I can always upgrade them, but like you I’m just having fun doing it my way 

 

[T-Bay]

I am hoping this will become my backup gig bass, hence the Thunderbird elements. I am also interested to know how the ‘thunderbird sound’ is created. I don’t think you need to go to a boutique bass costing thousands but a decent bass will help any player to sound better. I started on a terrible Stagg, when I picked up an old Aria I improved massively overnight (literally), but I have never found anything I like sound wise as much as the Thunderbird. What I have done is worked out the physical features that work for me, so string spacing, pick up placements, balance point on this are set to work for me. KiOgon built the loom with specific parts to give the sound I want. The first time I fire it up will be very interesting!

[Jimothey]

I see your point about a decent bass is easier to play I’m not trying to be funny but learning to drive in a Ferrari doesn’t make you a better driver

I think that other people on here a proved that a sub £100 Harley Benton Guitar can be just as nice to play as other more expensive basses 

[T-Bay]

The Ferrari analogy is not valid, partly as I pointed out about boutique basses but also because a sports car has significant limitations that would affect a learner driver. A better anaology would be that It’s easier to paint a wall with a good quality brush than a ten year old which has sat in turps for years and has half the bristles missing. You can be good or crap at painting, but it will still be easier. I have cheap basses I love but I didn't want to build a cheap bass. If you are happy building basses for pennies, great, but it was never the intention of this build. This is about getting the sound I want, within a sensible budget -I don’t have thousands to spend and don’t think I need it. The success or otherwise will be apparent within a few seconds of playing it. At least I know what I want and (think) I know how to get close. Only time will tell.

[Jimothey]

You may have missed my point slightly but yes that may not have been a good analogy I’m a carpenter and I have 2 different sets of chisels a set of £70 marples and a £200 set of Ashley iles chisel yes the more expensive may hold their edge better but I can do just as good a job with both because it’s my technique that is the most important aspect 

Anyway I hope you build does everything you want from it and really look forward to the finished article as I really like the thunderbird style.....

[Jabba_the_gut]

Looking good so far and nice to have the proper pickups for it! 

14 hours ago, T-Bay said:

I barely drink, don’t smoke etc etc so see it as my hobby expenditure and have really loved doing it.

But like drinking and smoking, building basses can become addictive and expensive!! 😉

Cheers

Jez

[T-Bay]

7 minutes ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

Looking good so far and nice to have the proper pickups for it! 

But like drinking and smoking, building basses can become addictive and expensive!! 😉

Cheers

Jez

I have to admit I have caught myself thinking ‘next time I would do it like that......’ then thinking what next time. I love thunderbird and this was a ‘can you do it’ experiment, more in terms of kit than skill as most of my stuff is it for working metal. I am now thinking how I can I adapt the T-bird design and improve it. Maybe a bit more exotic wood next time.

Edited March 30, 2018 by T-Bay

[SpondonBassed]

10 minutes ago, T-Bay said:

I have to admit I have caught myself thinking ‘next time I would do it like that......’ then thinking what next time. I love thunderbird and this was a ‘can you do it’ experiment, more in terms of kit than skill as most of my stuff is it for working metal. I am now thinking how I can I adapt the T-bird design and improve it. Maybe a bit more exotic wood next time.

Acrylic, showing the internals maybe?  That's a challenge, I'll bet.

[T-Bay]

7 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

Acrylic, showing the internals maybe?  That's a challenge, I'll bet.

I do have a secret like for acrylic bit think it would be a nightmare to work and get a good finish. Perhaps I should just get a billet of ally and make one!

[T-Bay]

I have some 6082T6 left over from a project as it happens, don’t think I have enough though and it’s all 12mm.

[Andyjr1515]

I agree with @Norris that £300 is good going for build. 

And in the words of a well-known advertisement..."And the thrill of playing a bass you've made yourself to your own spec?  Priceless!"

[Andyjr1515]

18 hours ago, T-Bay said:

Had a little time yesterday so finished off the control cavity. I also did a little more sanding. I then tried the dye I bought on an offcut. Sadly the colour is awful, on a light wood it works well but is just muddy and horrible on the darker wood. So the quest for a finish continues. I have looked at both oiled and lacquered finishes. The lacquer has won out because I have the option of going for a solid colour at a later date should I decide to. 

A set of hip shot ultralites are on their way to me. They are 1/2 type, I don’t think they will fit on my Gibson or I would swap them over and use the Gibson ones on this. Build costs are adding up but it’s been a lot of fun so far.

To be honest, this is one of the reasons I tend to use inks as stains. There are some issues with some specific colours with colour fastness, but the huge range of colours available from such as Diamine, and the very low cost, means that I can buy 4 or 5 shades and see which works best.  So far I've been lucky with colour fastness but I know some other folks have had issues.

The problem, though is that the actual colour is hugely influenced by the wood it's being applied to and sapele is a dark wood.  Now, if you were going for cherry red, I know exactly which ink I would recommend for both colour and colour-fastness...