Ebs HD350 blew

[ian]

Hi I've been using a ebs hd 350 it kept cutting out then totally went dead .i checked the kettle lead was only a 5amp fuse I've changed to a 13amp and come back on is that safe ?

thanks guys 

[TheGreek]

IIRC there is an onboard 3amp fuse tucked away which is accessed through the rear panel. Took me a while to find it when mine blew.

[machinehead]

A fuse in a plug is there only to protect the cable, not the equipment connected.  The fuse rating should be selected according to the cross sectional area (CSA) of the cable.

Frank.

[Norris]

5 hours ago, TheGreek said:

IIRC there is an onboard 3amp fuse tucked away which is accessed through the rear panel. Took me a while to find it when mine blew.

This. There will be a fuse specific to the amp. Usually mounted on the rear chassis but sometimes inside the amp (I'm not familiar with that particular amp). The amp fuse will usually be a fairly low value compared to the one in the plug.

[ian]

Hi I just need to know what fuse rating should be in kettle lead as only seems to power up with a 13 amp but my kettle leads all say different things on then 5amp 10 amp etc ?

[EBS_freak]

This just doesn't make any sense at all.

Take the amp apart and give it a damn good hoover... and then report back.

[ian]

Right I’ll start again .

my ebs HD350 has been cutting out on stage would not come back on .

tried different kettle leads 

the only one that would power the head back up is the one with a 13 amp fuse .

but the kettles leads say 5amp and 10 amp ?

i just want to make sure it’s safe to use a 13amp fuse in the kettle lead ?

 

[EBS_freak]

It's the fuses at the IEC input that protects the amp. So yeah. Your cable is not a fuse.. and the HT fuse will blow first anyway.

[Tonteee]

IMO, I think it more likely you have some dead 'kettle' leads, or even dud fuses.  The cables do expire from movement and use.  Try testing the continuity of the seemingly dud leads.  Have they ever been PAT tested?

With relation to the current load of your amp, in simple Ohm's Law terms

I(Current, in Amperes) = P(Watts) / V(Voltage)

so 350W / 230V = 1.52A.  That's why the supply fuse on the amp is set at 3A.

As has already been said, the fuse in the plug is there to protect the flex - not the appliance.  If it weren't there, heat build up from excess current for size of cable -> melty insulation -> fire / boom.  But hey, this has been covered.

Hope this £0.02 had helped a bit, or a least not made it worse.

 

Edited December 1, 2017 by Tonteee

[EBS_freak]

It does certainly sound like you have some dodgy IEC cables going on... although it's quite rare. Maybe the cable is giving up through years of being flexed?

Edited December 1, 2017 by EBS_freak

[Tonteee]

2 minutes ago, EBS_freak said:

It does certainly sound like you have some dodgy IEC cables going on... although it's quite rare. Maybe the cable is giving up through years of being flexed?

Yup - I've found it quite a few times on older IEC 3-pin cables.  Usually there's resistance increase in the cable beforehand. 

Thinking about it, it could also be the socket on the amp - might be some carp in there too stopping the pins getting fully home, with the one cable that works being somehow different...

[ian]

Thanks for your comments 

[Tonteee]

Have you been able to ID the issue?

[MoonBassAlpha]

On 01/12/2017 at 01:02, Tonteee said:

IMO, I think it more likely you have some dead 'kettle' leads, or even dud fuses.  The cables do expire from movement and use.  Try testing the continuity of the seemingly dud leads.  Have they ever been PAT tested?

With relation to the current load of your amp, in simple Ohm's Law terms

I(Current, in Amperes) = P(Watts) / V(Voltage)

so 350W / 230V = 1.52A.  That's why the supply fuse on the amp is set at 3A.

As has already been said, the fuse in the plug is there to protect the flex - not the appliance.  If it weren't there, heat build up from excess current for size of cable -> melty insulation -> fire / boom.  But hey, this has been covered.

Hope this £0.02 had helped a bit, or a least not made it worse.

 

If the 350 in the amp name refers to output power, the current consumption will be considerably higher, as amplifiers are not 100% efficient.

[Tonteee]

17 minutes ago, MoonBassAlpha said:

If the 350 in the amp name refers to output power, the current consumption will be considerably higher, as amplifiers are not 100% efficient.

No, I quite agree - but good point well made.  

I was just using it as a rough example to the OP that the fuse related issue he perceived was not the case.