Is there a “happy medium” fingerboard radius that would accommodate most playing situations? Suggestions please?

[Greg.Bassman]

Hi all.

Ok so, radius impacts playability in different ways. (Focusing on 4-string basses) For example, the severe curvature of a 7.25” (i.e. fender jazz) is generally perceived as more comfortable for the fretting hand, whereas then flatness of a 20” (i.e. warwick streamer) is generally considered better for bending and sweeps etc. I recognise that it is a subjective measurement, and is often down to the players own preference; but what would be the closest ‘bit of both worlds’ option, if ever there was such a thing?

P.S - I am not interested in compound (conical) radius’s. I prefer to have the one consistent measurement throughout, so please don't suggest this.

Thanks.

Edited December 6, 2017 by Greg.Bassman

[fretmeister]

On a bass I don’t care. I adapt to very curved or flat easily.

 

on a guitar it depends on the rest of the profile. Old Fender neck needs that curve. But I’m also happy with the 16 inch radius on my Ibanez as it suits the slim profile.

 

and I do think the conical approach is far superior. Easy chord fretting at one end and easy bends without choking at the other. What’s not to like?

[Jus Lukin]

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Edited March 1, 2022 by Jus Lukin

[CameronJ]

3 hours ago, fretmeister said:

and I do think the conical approach is far superior. Easy chord fretting at one end and easy bends without choking at the other. What’s not to like?

Out of interest, which brands of bass have a conical (or compound) radius?

[LoneFurrow]

The new Fender Elite series (both P and J) has a 9.5-14" compound radius. Worth a try if you haven't already. Seems more common in the guitar world than bass world, at least in my (limited) experience. 

Personally, I think 12" is a happy compromise on a 4 string bass or 6 string guitar. 

 

[chris_b]

I don't believe I've ever noticed a radius on a bass!

[Greg.Bassman]

9 hours ago, Jus Lukin said:

Feels like I'm being flippant here, but surely the answer would be slap bang between the two, at 13.6"?

Initially, my thinking was very similar (14”), but I wasn’t sure how correct (technically speaking) this approach would be lol.

Edited December 6, 2017 by Greg.Bassman

[Graham]

58 minutes ago, chris_b said:

I don't believe I've ever noticed a radius on a bass!

Same, I suspect set-up has a much greater impact on playability than fretboard radius.

[Greg.Bassman]

4 hours ago, chris_b said:

I don't believe I've ever noticed a radius on a bass!

I never noticed myself, until recently. The past 12 months has seen a shift in my playing; expanding my style to include more slap, tap and bending. It was during this time that I experienced issues including: a lack of 'flow' when sweeping, notes ‘fretting-out’ out during bends and finger fatigue whilst tapping. Despite these issues, I decided to persevere regardless, hoping that they may disappear with practice; but despite my best efforts, I am still fighting with the fingerboard.

I’ve heard that it is easier to achieve an (extra) low action on flatter-radius fingerboards; many 'flatter fingerboard converts' noting the increased comfort and speed when playing scales and tapping. Presumably, this is because of the low action and string-to-string height evenness; decreasing chances of fatigue and increasing the ‘flow’ factor when gliding across the board. Is there any bass chatters on here with similar experiences who can vouch for this?

Edited December 6, 2017 by Greg.Bassman

[Jus Lukin]

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Edited February 25, 2022 by Jus Lukin

[Greg.Bassman]

4 hours ago, Jus Lukin said:

... Or to put it another way, a happy medium may not be what you are after. In fact, the lighter touch which often suits 'technique' playing might well sit quite happily with grooving out down low on a flatter board...

Duly noted, cheers! So what radius should I be looking for then? somewhere between 16" - 20" perhaps?

[LoneFurrow]

2 hours ago, Greg.Bassman said:

Duly noted, cheers! So what radius should I be looking for then? somewhere between 16" - 20" perhaps?

From your comments, I'd go for a minimum of 14" - I think that would give you the sort of set up you need. Are you in the vicinity of one of the decent bass shops so you can try some different options? You might want to look at somebody like Mayones - the Jabba Custom (for example) has a 20" radius board. 

Interestingly, if you look at a very technical player like Billy Sheehan, you'll see his signature Yamaha Attitude bass still only has a 10" radius. 

[NickA]

I have no idea what the fingerboard radius is on any of my basses.. nor the nut width nor the weight.  Best to obsess less & practice more, I reckon.

Had a go on one of those totally flat Shuker "infinity" ones once, bit odd for the first couple of minutes.

[Greg.Bassman]

12 hours ago, LoneFurrow said:

From your comments, I'd go for a minimum of 14" - I think that would give you the sort of set up you need. Are you in the vicinity of one of the decent bass shops so you can try some different options? You might want to look at somebody like Mayones - the Jabba Custom (for example) has a 20" radius board. 

Interestingly, if you look at a very technical player like Billy Sheehan, you'll see his signature Yamaha Attitude bass still only has a 10" radius. 

Great, I’ll keep that in mind, and yes, I remind myself of Billy's signature often. I guess different things work for different people.

[Greg.Bassman]

1 hour ago, NickA said:

I have no idea what the fingerboard radius is on any of my basses.. nor the nut width nor the weight.  Best to obsess less & practice more, I reckon.

Had a go on one of those totally flat Shuker "infinity" ones once, bit odd for the first couple of minutes.

I appreciate the sentiment. I shared a similar view… until recently lol. Now,  I can appreciate the importance of appropriate spec and setup (aswell as good practice!). I know a good workmen should never blame his tools, but sometimes you’ve just got to listen to what you hands are telling you

[Creeper]

personally I like more of a curve than less, I’m not too fussy about it but do find flatter boards a little more difficult to play.

[Twanger]

I have flathead and crosshead screwdrivers at home, and I never looked for a happy medium. That would be a Swiss Army knife, which is a fun thing to have around, but no way as good as the dedicated tool for any job. I've always looked at basses in the same way. They are just different tools. I wouldn't play a 7.5" in the same way as I'd play a 20", and so the trick is to have both. One for groove, one for diddle.

[MOSCOWBASS]

Didn't like the flat fingerboards I had on a couple of basses, glad to be back to a 10" radius

[BigRedX]

Should we even have a radiused fingerboard on a bass?

On a bowed instrument you need the radius to allow each string to be individually accessible to the bow, and on the electric guitar the slight radius is supposed to make playing chords easier and more comfortable.

 However on the electric bass we don't really play full chords like a guitar, and if you think about it the fretted stringed instrument the bass has the most in common with as regards playing style is the "classical" guitar which nearly always has a flat fingerboard.

[Twanger]

27 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

Should we even have a radiused fingerboard on a bass?

On a bowed instrument you need the radius to allow each string to be individually accessible to the bow, and on the electric guitar the slight radius is supposed to make playing chords easier and more comfortable.

 However on the electric bass we don't really play full chords like a guitar, and if you think about it the fretted stringed instrument the bass has the most in common with as regards playing style is the "classical" guitar which nearly always has a flat fingerboard.

Good point, but a more cambered fingerboard on a four string helps thumb hangers like me dig in and boogie. If a flat fingerboard is more like a classical guitar, the cambered one is more like a baseball bat. There's a place for both in the wide, wide world of bass playing.

[BassBunny]

I've 2 basses with flat fingerboards and prefer them to radiused ones. 

[Bolo]

Spend some time in the shops. This 'feel' is so personal that most replies may not apply to you.

[Mape]

I like flatter fingerboards, could be due to my guitar background. I've never understood how rounder would be easier to play. I also like action as low as possible and it's easier to get with flatter fingerboards. Especially on Jazz bass something like 7.25" is really round. I would like to see flatter radius available on standard lines for P and J basses. Now you always need to get some custom or otherwise expensive models to get bigger radius.

[Greg.Bassman]

On 08/12/2017 at 11:23, BigRedX said:

Should we even have a radiused fingerboard on a bass?

On a bowed instrument you need the radius to allow each string to be individually accessible to the bow, and on the electric guitar the slight radius is supposed to make playing chords easier and more comfortable.

 However on the electric bass we don't really play full chords like a guitar, and if you think about it the fretted stringed instrument the bass has the most in common with as regards playing style is the "classical" guitar which nearly always has a flat fingerboard.

 

On 08/12/2017 at 11:58, Twanger said:

Good point, but a more cambered fingerboard on a four string helps thumb hangers like me dig in and boogie. If a flat fingerboard is more like a classical guitar, the cambered one is more like a baseball bat. There's a place for both in the wide, wide world of bass playing.

It's interesting that you mention this both. I was reading an article recently, explaining that radiused fretboards were just carried over from acoustic (bowed) instruments such as violins and cellos etc; describing it all as just ‘a habit that never got broken’, and arguing that flat(ter) fretboards facilitate better speed and dexterity. I have also read something very similar amongst different forums; describing radiused fretboards as something ‘simply adopted from orchestral instruments’.

It's all very interesting, but as always, each to their own!

Edited December 12, 2017 by Greg.Bassman

[Twanger]

Yup, each to his own. In my experience, flatter boards certainly facilitate speed, dexterity and string bending, partly because they allow a lower action. And I can definitely believe that a lot of bass design is "because we've always done it that way". But for the technique I referred to as "digging in and boogieing",  where you are really pulling hard at the strings with the right hand, you don't want a low action (or, more accurately, I don't want a low action), particularly on E and A, because the damn things keep bouncing off the frets and you have less tension. You'll be gripping quite hard with the left hand as well, and I find a cambered board facilitates this. It's more comfortable. This is not a sophisticated way of playing, but it's great fun and conveys a sense of drive and urgency.

FWIW my current bass is very flat.

Edited December 11, 2017 by Twanger