discreet Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 On 27/02/2018 at 16:01, Geek99 said: ...I did find out from talking to the seller that they don't have earth holes drilled from the bridge. This is not a huge issue for me as I was going to use shielding foil so I will just use it to join the bridge to the pickup shield a la 62... I got my Jazz body from the same guy - no earth wire hole to the bridge. BUT, if you're very thorough about shielding the cavities, you don't need it. Even though I have single coils fitted, the bass is just as quiet as if it were earthed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blisters on my fingers Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 from Guitarworld www.guitarworld.com/gear/brad-paisley-discusses-his-signature-fender-road-worn-telecaster The Brad Paisley Road Worn Telecaster’s most unusual feature may be its body construction, consisting of a lightweight Paulownia core sandwiched between thin layers of spruce on the body’s top and back. Don't know if that helps. Probably not !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 9 hours ago, discreet said: I got my Jazz body from the same guy - no earth wire hole to the bridge. BUT, if you're very thorough about shielding the cavities, you don't need it. Even though I have single coils fitted, the bass is just as quiet as if it were earthed. I'll use a strip of foil like a 62 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 3 hours ago, blisters on my fingers said: from Guitarworld www.guitarworld.com/gear/brad-paisley-discusses-his-signature-fender-road-worn-telecaster The Brad Paisley Road Worn Telecaster’s most unusual feature may be its body construction, consisting of a lightweight Paulownia core sandwiched between thin layers of spruce on the body’s top and back. Don't know if that helps. Probably not !! I understand then that it will be light, which is no bad thing. I'm doubting my ability to do a blonde burst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) 19 hours ago, Geek99 said: can I use linseed oil as a cover to the grainfiller? apparently you normally put a clearcoat on before colour layer added a link to parts in the top post I don't think Linseed Oil is like Tru Oil, Gun Oil, Danish Oil or Teak Oil. All of those are essentially thin varnishes. Apart from that, I can't see any reason why you can't use Linseed Oil. I'd do a test in the control cavity to see if the grain filler lifts after oiling to be certain. Similarly with top coats, do a test. PS: Linseed Oil is usually used to preserve wood from within and you'd want it to penetrate the pores. Grain filler will negate that. What was your reason for choosing Linseed Oil? Is it handy or something? Edited March 1, 2018 by SpondonBassed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) Forum glitch. The reply box is not revealing that the post has hit the site. Sorry for the extra posts Edited March 1, 2018 by SpondonBassed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) Forum glitch. The reply box is not revealing that the post has hit the site. Sorry for the extra posts Edited March 1, 2018 by SpondonBassed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 16 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: I don't think Linseed Oil is like Tru Oil, Gun Oil, Danish Oil or Teak Oil. All of those are essentially thin varnishes. Apart from that, I can't see any reason why you can't use Linseed Oil. I'd do a test in the control cavity to see if the grain filler lifts after oiling to be certain. Similarly with top coats, do a test. PS: Linseed Oil is usually used to preserve wood from within and you'd want it to penetrate the pores. Grain filler will negate that. What was your reason for choosing Linseed Oil? Is it handy or something? I'd read that it nourished and protected wood. Its also cheap and I don't need to spray it so I have more control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) Blonde bursts do look good but very tricky to do well, I had one done by Bow Finishing it was lovely but it wasn't cheap. Edited March 1, 2018 by Rumple 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 3 minutes ago, Geek99 said: I'd read that it nourished and protected wood. Its also cheap and I don't need to spray it so I have more control. Then I'd suggest trying a test on a separate bit of similar timber. See if you can apply Linseed Oil as a first coat then use the grain filler followed by a top coat of Linseed Oil buffed back to a dry finish. It's not something I'd recommend. I do like the smell of Linseed Oil though so good luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 1 minute ago, Rumple said: Blond bursts do look good but very tricky to do well, I had one done by Bow Finishing it was lovely but it wasn't cheap. i was thinking of blonde on blonde (nurse!) burst so white where that is black; I have Mary Kaye in my mind. Thanks for the example though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) Should I use black grain filler? sadly I don't have any spare powlownia but maybe white pine would do so, linseed grain filler - scrape off excess linseed, buff back and sand whiteburst edges then white trans, cure then flatten ultra thin top coat. Edited March 1, 2018 by Geek99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 9 minutes ago, Geek99 said: Should I use black grain filler? sadly I don't have any spare powlownia but maybe white pine would do so, linseed grain filler - scrape off excess linseed, buff back and sand whiteburst edges then white trans, cure then flatten ultra thin top coat. I don't think the top coats will be compatible. You'd have to test everything to be certain. Time to call in @Andyjr1515 as he's been dabbling like a mad scientist in this area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 8 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: I don't think the top coats will be compatible. +1 I'm no expert but don't think you can apply paint to an oil finish? Happy to be corrected on this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 well, the procedure I read was sand, oil grain filler nitro clear coat to boost the grain nitro colour coat nitro clear coat since I'm already going to have to buy a clear coat can... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said: I don't think the top coats will be compatible. You'd have to test everything to be certain. Time to call in @Andyjr1515 as he's been dabbling like a mad scientist in this area. Sometimes more like this: I might not be much help on this one: I've done white and I've done bursts ....but I've never done a white burst! And I'm not entirely sure how I would go about it. And generally I don't spray. And I generally don't grain fill in the conventional manner. Basically - my approach tends towards the unconventional in a number of aspects and so I would probably start from a completely different place. There are some pointers I've gleaned from the various trials and tribulations I've had that might help, though. But I emphasise these are just what I've experienced...other people may have had more success than I did: I think linseed oil is a bit of a problem. Tru-oil - which many guitar makers use - is a polymerised linseed based product. Basically, it sets hard over time. I'm not sure that linseed oil by itself does. As such, there may be problems trying to overcoat linseed oil with many things - although perhaps OK with Tru-oil Personally, I steer clear of nitro-cellulose. You HAVE to wear a properly spec'd respirator - it is pretty evil stuff - but more than that, it is very, very particular to what it is sprayed on or what is sprayed on it. And it blooms in damp weather...and and and Yes - the spray cans from halfords, etc, will work fine and give you a huge choice of colours and a decent clear coat. Always start with a primer, though, if you are using solid colours. If you are spraying onto bare wood, use a clear sanding sealer. You still need to wear a respirator when you are spraying and follow all of the other precautions stated on the tins but functionally will work and, in my experience are less sensitive to humiditiy, etc.. They can nevertheless be still reactive with previous coats and other products. The folks above who say 'always test on some scrap' speak wise words You can produce very good results for many effects without having to spray... The good thing, though, is that generally at worst, you can fairly easily sand back to the wood and start again. Sorry I've not been more help on this one Andy 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 14 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: ...generally I don't spray. And I generally don't grain fill... Why not, just out of interest? I find grain filling and spraying quite satisfying. Therapeutic, even... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 17 minutes ago, discreet said: Why not, just out of interest? I find grain filling and spraying quite satisfying. Therapeutic, even... Ref the spraying, I just don't have the facilities. It's only recently I've been able to sort something more practical than a Workmate on the back patio I've got a proper workbench in the cellar now but that's about it. Also, most of my builds are trans finishes or natural so I tend to use stains rather than paints. Ref grainfilling, I generally do the slurry and wipe/ buff approach - I've not been able to find a grain filler that goes on well, accepts stain and sands down easily. It must exist but I haven't found anything yet that beats slurrying the wood itself - especially since finding out that you can do that with stained wood. I quite like seeing some evidence of the grain with most of the woods I use. This one has the lot - stained with ink, slurry and wipe/buffed with tru-oil, Ronsealed wiped on. All done on a small table in the spare bedroom. Andyjr1515 nirvana! Apologies, @Geek99 for the slight de-rail 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 3 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: Apologies, @Geek99 for the slight de-rail Oops, yes indeed. That is a great finish though and no mistake! Must look into this further... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 48 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: Ref the spraying, I just don't have the facilities. It's only recently I've been able to sort something more practical than a Workmate on the back patio I've got a proper workbench in the cellar now but that's about it. Also, most of my builds are trans finishes or natural so I tend to use stains rather than paints. Ref grainfilling, I generally do the slurry and wipe/ buff approach - I've not been able to find a grain filler that goes on well, accepts stain and sands down easily. It must exist but I haven't found anything yet that beats slurrying the wood itself - especially since finding out that you can do that with stained wood. I quite like seeing some evidence of the grain with most of the woods I use. This one has the lot - stained with ink, slurry and wipe/buffed with tru-oil, Ronsealed wiped on. All done on a small table in the spare bedroom. Andyjr1515 nirvana! Apologies, @Geek99 for the slight de-rail no sweat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 I'd certainly steer clear of linseed oil if you're going to apply any other finish. The wood will be fine without being "nourished". Black grain filler can work nicely but is messy and requires a bit more preparation than you'd think. I've posted this before, but here's the back of my telecaster guitar that I built. It's ash, so needed grain filling anyway, using thixotropic filler that I think came from Rothcoe and Frost. The order of application was: grain filler > dye > sanding sealer > clear gloss nitrocellulouse. If you are aware of the hazards AND have suitable facilities, check out the range of nitrocellulouse rattle cans on Manchester Guitar Tech. IIRC they do a translucent white 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 nice work there Norris*** ** even if it does have way too many strings 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Updated parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EliasMooseblaster Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) On 3/1/2018 at 14:47, Andyjr1515 said: Ref grainfilling, I generally do the slurry and wipe/ buff approach - I've not been able to find a grain filler that goes on well, accepts stain and sands down easily. It must exist but I haven't found anything yet that beats slurrying the wood itself - especially since finding out that you can do that with stained wood. I quite like seeing some evidence of the grain with most of the woods I use. I will not claim any expertise on these subjects, but I did find the grain-filing method in French polishing to be quite effective: a rough coat of shellac on the wood, then powdered pumice (dissolved in a minimal amount of alcohol) on a pad to chew up that rough coat and work it into the grain. It certainly does wonders for building up a gloss finish. I don't know if you could adapt a similar technique to other finishes/oils/varnishes...?* * because, pleased as I am with the shellac finishes on two of my basses, I won't deny that the process can be a couple of weeks' worth of laborious ballache... Edited March 9, 2018 by EliasMooseblaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 12 minutes ago, EliasMooseblaster said: I won't deny that the process can be a couple of weeks' worth of laborious ballache... Damn, that's just the sort of ballache I don't like! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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