lownote Posted January 13, 2018 Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) Fender P Bass MM icy blue metallic ("Blue Agave"). Not easy colour to photograph. Bottom pic of a jazz bass I found on the net gives you a better idea of the colour of my bass. Dates from 2005 I think. It's in great condition but does have a few small dings to the body, nothing major. In the pics it looks silver but it's actually a clear icy pale blue. Coming from Squiers, I always thought any P bass was as good as the real thing. Not so. This is built better, balances better, plays better and sounds better than any P bass clone I've had, bar none. "It's a Fender" in this case is really worth saying. Put it this way, I fitted a KiOgon loom but took it out again because the original was that much better. Genuine rosewood thumb rest and Dunlop straplock pins fitted £350 Collection from North Suffolk preferred but I can post if the buyer pays for insured cartage which will likely be £20-25. Edited January 16, 2018 by lownote12
AndyTravis Posted January 13, 2018 Posted January 13, 2018 Looks great, if it’s any use (not that it makes much difference) but that colour was called blue Agave... very nice. 1
nilebodgers Posted January 13, 2018 Posted January 13, 2018 Nice colour. What is up with the G-string bridge saddle?
AndyTravis Posted January 13, 2018 Posted January 13, 2018 Doesn’t look like there’s anything up with it?
lownote Posted January 13, 2018 Author Posted January 13, 2018 Right Andy. I was always taught to slope the saddles to match the curve of the fingerboard.
AndyTravis Posted January 13, 2018 Posted January 13, 2018 2 minutes ago, lownote12 said: Right Andy. I was always taught to slope the saddles to match the curve of the fingerboard. Ah right, sorry...they need a tweak, but there’s nowt missing or broken... 1
nilebodgers Posted January 13, 2018 Posted January 13, 2018 5 minutes ago, lownote12 said: Right Andy. I was always taught to slope the saddles to match the curve of the fingerboard. No, they should be parallel to the baseplate as there is otherwise different forces on the screws and the string can slip sideways (esp. on a vintage threaded saddle) or the screw under least tension can work loose. The exception is the vintage saddles that have pairs of strings on a saddle, they have to be tilted to follow the fretboard radius, but there is a lot of downforce on the saddle so they don't move. 1 1
lownote Posted January 13, 2018 Author Posted January 13, 2018 Nothing missing or broken. I tend not to sell gear that's missing or broken, at least, not without pointing it out. Weird I know. Closer ups
karlfer Posted January 13, 2018 Posted January 13, 2018 2 hours ago, nilebodgers said: No, they should be parallel to the baseplate as there is otherwise different forces on the screws and the string can slip sideways (esp. on a vintage threaded saddle) or the screw under least tension can work loose. The exception is the vintage saddles that have pairs of strings on a saddle, they have to be tilted to follow the fretboard radius, but there is a lot of downforce on the saddle so they don't move. Word.
AndyTravis Posted January 13, 2018 Posted January 13, 2018 I’d always try to radius them to the fingerboard. Nobody’s died from me doing this to their basses...and I’ve done 100’s, probably 1000’s like that. depends how hard you play as to wether or not they shift. im very much a light handed player.
lownote Posted January 14, 2018 Author Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) Now reduced to £325 posted, £295 collected Edited January 15, 2018 by lownote12
Carl G Posted January 15, 2018 Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) I am over near Brundish tomorrow - I don't suppose there is any chance that you are about early afternoon? 2 ish? No problem if not Edited January 15, 2018 by Carl G
lownote Posted January 16, 2018 Author Posted January 16, 2018 Now sold to a very nice man. Cheers Carl
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