hrnn1234 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 So, just for the fun of it I want to have my very own frankenbass. Pbass choice because of simplicity and coolness I have a neck lying around at home that seems decent enough, although not from a p type bass. But regarding finding a body, I'm not sure about how "easy" it is to mix up different builder's parts. Neck pocket is the main thing. I should aim for a close to perfect fit and sand out (symmetrically from both sides) as much as I need? How variable will the scale be mixing like this? Most likely a body will be second hand and have holes drilled already. Are these discrepancies salvageable with a proper set up or will I have to re-drill (likely next to the existing holes) to be able to get a usable result? What else am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 1 hour ago, hrnn1234 said: So, just for the fun of it I want to have my very own frankenbass. Pbass choice because of simplicity and coolness I have a neck lying around at home that seems decent enough, although not from a p type bass. But regarding finding a body, I'm not sure about how "easy" it is to mix up different builder's parts. Neck pocket is the main thing. I should aim for a close to perfect fit and sand out (symmetrically from both sides) as much as I need? How variable will the scale be mixing like this? Most likely a body will be second hand and have holes drilled already. Are these discrepancies salvageable with a proper set up or will I have to re-drill (likely next to the existing holes) to be able to get a usable result? What else am I missing? Most necks have the same width heel so I don’t think you would have too much trouble matching it to a body, it’s only the nut width that really changes As far as I understand you can change the scale length the only thing you need to consider is how far forward or backwards you need to move the bridge to be the correct scale length If you change the scale length and have to move the bridge you might need to fill the existing holes before you refinish the body Definitely sounds like a bit of fun just make sure you post so pics of your progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pea Turgh Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 The scale length would be determined by the frets, surely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 16 minutes ago, Pea Turgh said: The scale length would be determined by the frets, surely? Yes, so would need to be measured from nut to 12th fret and then doubled to get the bridge saddle position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, Pea Turgh said: The scale length would be determined by the frets, surely? 2 hours ago, Norris said: Yes, so would need to be measured from nut to 12th fret and then doubled to get the bridge saddle position So if it’s a 34” scale neck and a body that was set up for a 34” scale then the bridge won’t need to move but if it’s a 30” scale neck on a body that is set up for 34” scale then the bridge will need to move forward Edited January 25, 2018 by Jimothey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 4 hours ago, Jimothey said: So if it’s a 34” scale neck and a body that was set up for a 34” scale then the bridge won’t need to move but if it’s a 30” scale neck on a body that is set up for 34” scale then the bridge will need to move forward It depends on the length of the neck pocket i.e. which fret the neck joins the body at.. Certainly it's a measurement to check. And yes if it's a shorter scale neck the bridge would need to move towards it. If both body and neck are 34" scale and the neck joins the body on the same fret as the original neck used to, you shouldn't have to move the bridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pea Turgh Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 4 hours ago, Jimothey said: So if it’s a 34” scale neck and a body that was set up for a 34” scale then the bridge won’t need to move but if it’s a 30” scale neck on a body that is set up for 34” scale then the bridge will need to move forward Oh yeah! That way too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 3 hours ago, Norris said: It depends on the length of the neck pocket i.e. which fret the neck joins the body at.. Certainly it's a measurement to check. And yes if it's a shorter scale neck the bridge would need to move towards it. If both body and neck are 34" scale and the neck joins the body on the same fret as the original neck used to, you shouldn't have to move the bridge @Norris yeah sorry I meant to put probably won’t need to move the bridge @hrnn1234 you shouldn’t really have that much problems as it’s a lot easier if you buy the right kind of body ie Bass body as I’m having fun trying to convert an old Telecaster body into a bass and making it 34” scale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 23 hours ago, hrnn1234 said: So, just for the fun of it I want to have my very own frankenbass. Pbass choice because of simplicity and coolness I have a neck lying around at home that seems decent enough, although not from a p type bass. But regarding finding a body, I'm not sure about how "easy" it is to mix up different builder's parts. Neck pocket is the main thing. I should aim for a close to perfect fit and sand out (symmetrically from both sides) as much as I need? How variable will the scale be mixing like this? Most likely a body will be second hand and have holes drilled already. Are these discrepancies salvageable with a proper set up or will I have to re-drill (likely next to the existing holes) to be able to get a usable result? What else am I missing? This is a great way of clambering up the learning curve First of all, the neck pocket. When you say 'it's not a p-type neck' that could mean a lot of things! If it is off a Fender or Squier or any of the myriad copies of those makes, the likelihood is that most P-bass type bodies will have a neck pocket that is broadly the right shape. You might need to add a bit of veneer to the pocket sides to tighten it up, or sand a touch off the sides to loosen it, but it should be close. If the neck is not from a fender-ish copy of any sort, then it is very much not likely to fit a P-bass type body at all. So first question is - what is the neck off? (Pics?) Next is what the others say above. Basically, the bridge position is determined by the scale length and where the neck is once it's fitted snugly in the neck pocket. So the next question is again the neck - what scale length is it? Just measure from the nut to the 12th fret. Then double it gives your scale length (a P-bass will measure 17" to the 12th fret, giving the 'standard' long scale length of 34") Again, if the neck is 34" scale and is off a Fender-type copy and the body is a P-bass copy, it is likely that the bridge holes will be in the right place. If the neck is not 34" scale, then you would definitely need the bridge in a substantially different place, to the point that it might not even be feasible. If the neck is 34" scale, but not a Fender shaped heel, then the bridge position would be calculated once the neck pocket had been sufficiently modified and the neck position confirmed. Hope that helps Pop a couple of photos of the neck headstock and heel and the nut to 12th fret measurement and we'll be able to give you a better answer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba_the_gut Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 The heel of necks may vary from being square to rounded and there could well be a couple of mm difference in width. Sanding out a neck pocket might not be quite as easy as you think if you want to keep the sides square and maintain the centre line of the neck. Generally a router and a template would be used to cut a neck pocket to ensure these stay true. If you are local to me (Gloucestershire) give me a shout and I'll happily help you out with this. Cheers Jez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimBobTTD Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 It depends on how well you plan, how well you check and how lucky you are whether the parts match up. With careful planning and sourcing of parts, you should be able to get bits that fit and match each other. Go for the same make and model and you will likely be ok, but check before pulling the trigger. My first project was a Strat. Mystery body, Mighty Mite neck, mystery bridge, mystery scratchplate, mystery other parts...and done before I had internet at home. It all screwed together and fit perfectly. Now, many years later, I appreciate the luck I had when making the guitar. The project should have been a disaster several times over! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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