We're off - 1x15 DIY

[FinnDave]

Does it really have a Fane speaker? I remember buying a pair of cheap 15" speakers from Wilmslow Audio (I went there on the bus, too young to drive then!) for a 2x12 2x15 (!) cab I made in the woodwork class at school. It was a pretty good cab, powered it with a Selmer T&B 50. That was a long time ago!!

Edited February 27, 2018 by FinnDave
stupidity

[fleabag]

39 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

My mistake.  I took the comment about them being upside down the wrong way.  You had it sussed from the outset then.

Stevie and i were messing around. The cab was actually upside down at the time, as i was working on the underneath.

But even with the cab the right way up,  you can have the space for your knuckles when gripping the handle, either facing up or down

[SpondonBassed]

44 minutes ago, FinnDave said:

Does it really have a Fane speaker? I remember buying a pair of cheap 15" speakers from Wilmslow Audio (I went there on the bus, too young to drive then!) for a 2x12 cab I made in the woodwork class at school. It was a pretty good cab, powered it with a Selmer T&B 50. That was a long time ago!!

It'd have to be good with 2x15" in a 2x12" cab... I'd wager you'd never be short of honk.

[stevie]

Fane have been around for a long time. There have been a few changes of ownership but they are still going strong.

[FinnDave]

6 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

It'd have to be good with 2x15" in a 2x12" cab... I'd wager you'd never be short of honk.

Typo caused by trying to do more than one thing at once. I usually struggle to do one thing at once, to be fair.

[fleabag]

38 minutes ago, FinnDave said:

Does it really have a Fane speaker? I remember buying a pair of cheap 15" speakers from Wilmslow Audio (I went there on the bus, too young to drive then!) for a 2x12 cab I made in the woodwork class at school. It was a pretty good cab, powered it with a Selmer T&B 50. That was a long time ago!!

Definately does Dave. And powered by a Mega

 

 

[fleabag]

Oh dear -

Long crackle on a lot of notes. Worse on the E and A fretted or open ,  a lot less on D and G

1)  amp has 2 channels. Only using one at a time as its a single cab. Changed channels, no help

1a) Also changed EQ, various changes, Comp on and off etc. No help

2) cab has 2 speakons. Swapped speakons. No help

3) Changed speakon cable and then did the above again, swapping channels, then cab speakons. No help

4) changed guitar leads twice, no help

5) used my wireless XVIVE's . No help

6) Isolated amp from cab and isolated cab from floor. No help

7) Took grill off, played open E and open A, and put both hands on the driver ( cone and beyond cone ). No help.

8) Changed basses - no help

Isn't looking good 

Edited February 27, 2018 by fleabag

[RichardH]

I assume the driver was OK in the old cab?

[fleabag]

I couldn't be sure because it rattled everything in my lounge so bad, the rattling could have covered up the noise of crackles

[Jimothey]

12 minutes ago, fleabag said:

I couldn't be sure because it rattled everything in my lounge so bad, the rattling could have covered up the noise of crackles

Just came across this don’t know if it’s of any help??

Issues with the Amplifier

An amplifier, especially an older one, can also cause crackling sounds. Transistors and capacitors can wear out over time, the sockets that hold them can corrode and come loose, and vibrations from loud bass music can shake the amplifier.

[fleabag]

The amp is about 6 weeks old -  i guess it still could be that, but i doubt it

[Jimothey]

The only other reason I’ve found is to do with interrupted power which can cause crackling??

Edited February 27, 2018 by Jimothey

[Jimothey]

I just found this....,

https://www.avforums.com/threads/crackling-speaker.248342/

 

[fleabag]

I did what they tried in that AV thread already - see my post above

[SpondonBassed]

It's possible that the voice coil is in physical contact with the sides of the gap in which it should normally run unhindered.  This can be caused by a displacement of the magnet following a hard impact.  Is the magnet eccentric to the backing plate or the frame?

Anatomy of a Loudspeaker

[fleabag]

Havent dismantled and de-soldered the driver from the cab ,  so i may need to do this  at some point

Edited February 27, 2018 by fleabag

[fleabag]

I've hooked up the amp to one of my Beyma 2x10's, and using the same speakon cables, and guitar leads, the crackle has gone.

I think the only conclusion then, is that the problem is the  Fane driver.  One thing i need to check is both speakon screw terminals to make

sure the wiring is solid, but i'm doubtful that's the problem

[stevie]

It doesn't look good, especially if it's worse on lower notes. Have you tried pushing the cone in and out evenly? It shouldn't scrape. Otherwise, check the speaker outside the cab and then check the connections and the tinsel leads.

[fleabag]

Just  had a look at the speakon connection wiring - its fine

Then did the silent push on the driver, no amp

I thought it was silent, till i got to about 6 o'clock position, and there's a loud scraping.  No scraping sound anywhere else ( 9 o'clock - 12 , or 3 )

What do you think that is then Stevie ?  Only making a scraping noise at 6  - its not a whisper either

Edited February 27, 2018 by fleabag

[stevie]

If you're pushing the cone in and out nice and gently, I don't quite get what the 6 o'clock position is, but if you hear any scraping, you almost certainly have a duff driver. The magnet could have moved, as Spondon mentioned earliler, or more likely the speaker has been overdriven and the coating on the copper wire has expanded and is scraping.

[fleabag]

The 6 o'clock thing -   If you look at the cab face on, then i was pressing at several points on what could be called ' the clock face '

EG  I pressed the driver at the top as you're looking at it - say 12 o'clock - and then at other points on a so called clock face , 3 , 6 , 9

So, the scraping noise was at the bottom of the driver at about the 6 o'clock position

Is the magnet accesible to re-position ?  What is the coating on the copper wire - can that be re-coated ?

The Fane driver was bought from someone on here, and  it never saw a gig with me, because i was either gigging my 2 Beyma   2x10 cabs or my 2 markbass cabs, and i've never dropped it either.  I live in a flat,  with people below me, so its never been louder than practice volume when it was in the massive Peavey cab. So someone has sold me a duff speaker

Edited February 27, 2018 by fleabag

[SpondonBassed]

11 minutes ago, stevie said:

If you're pushing the cone in and out nice and gently, I don't quite get what the 6 o'clock position is, but if you hear any scraping, you almost certainly have a duff driver. The magnet could have moved, as Spondon mentioned earliler, or more likely the speaker has been overdriven and the coating on the copper wire has expanded and is scraping.

I had this with a combo back in 1986.

My mate asked me to have a look at it.  Thinking first that it sounded as if the output transistors had gone I checked and found them okay.  When it came to the push test it became apparent.  Fortunately, that driver had a back plate secured with machine screws and I was able to loosen the screws and realign the parts successfully.  The Fane unit however doesn't look like it was made that way.  You might get some movement of the magnet about its axis with carefully applied force using a rag to protect the magnet from shattering forces but its a long shot.

Edited February 27, 2018 by SpondonBassed

[fleabag]

A lot of this is out of my comfort zone, so maybe another driver is the only way

[SpondonBassed]

The push test should be done with even pressure by the way.  There is no value in doing the points of the compass.

[stevie]

Exactly. The idea is to simulate the back and forward movement of the cone. As Spondon says, you need to apply even pressure to the cone to make it move in and out at a perfect right angle. The voice coil behind the cone is moving in a very narrow gap, and will scrape against metal if you apply uneven pressure - even on a good driver. I think Phil Starr once suggested using a cup to carry out this test.