Finished Pics! Swift Lite 2 (sorry, another electric)

[RichardH]

Personally I like the ebony look - are you edge binding it? If so, that could add a bit of interest to the board if you're worried it is too "brown"...

[Andyjr1515]

15 minutes ago, RichardH said:

Personally I like the ebony look - are you edge binding it? If so, that could add a bit of interest to the board if you're worried it is too "brown"...

Yes - if I did the macassar, I would use an ebony binding with a maple feature stripe.

This is sort of what I had in mind when I chose the maple:

But the amboyna is going to be darker than the yew and hence me wondering if the contrast is a tad too much

 

[TheGreek]

Personally I prefer the Maple board - sometimes adding too many materials can clutter the palette.

Having said that how much of the wenge feature wood are you going to show?

[Andyjr1515]

33 minutes ago, TheGreek said:

Personally I prefer the Maple board - sometimes adding too many materials can clutter the palette.

Having said that how much of the wenge feature wood are you going to show?

Just the outline and cutaway stripes, but the darker fretboard would certainly tone with the wenge

This is probably a better representation of the tone difference:

...and this is probably close to how they would compare in real life:

[Andyjr1515]

I sent Jane a copy of the above photo of the guitar and bass - and she prefers the dark fretboard of the Jag bass.

So this is where I'll be heading:

 

Thanks for the input, folks  - always appreciated

[Jimothey]

I reckon the lighter fretboard contrasting with the body looks good better than the ebony....

[Andyjr1515]

4 minutes ago, Jimothey said:

I reckon the lighter fretboard contrasting with the body looks good better than the ebony....

Certainly was the case with my yew 6 string above - but this one maybe a touch too much contrast? 

Anyway, at the end of the day, the future owner prefers the dark board.  I'll use the maple fretboard next time I build one for myself

[Jimothey]

28 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Certainly was the case with my yew 6 string above - but this one maybe a touch too much contrast? 

Anyway, at the end of the day, the future owner prefers the dark board.  I'll use the maple fretboard next time I build one for myself

Sorry I was a bit behind on the thread it didn’t load page 3 till after I posted 

I do like an ebony fretboard so it will look good either way!!......

[Andyjr1515]

38 minutes ago, Jimothey said:

Sorry I was a bit behind on the thread it didn’t load page 3 till after I posted 

I do like an ebony fretboard so it will look good either way!!......

That's no problem at all. To be honest, if I had been making it for myself, I'd have gone for the maple.

It matters not - I've got a good feeling about this build so I think it's going to please both me and Jane whatever  

[SpondonBassed]

I can see nothing wrong with a lighter fretboard.  It's worked on some of the well known brands.  The photo above is not the right tint but with a bit of amber colouring I think it'd work.

[SpondonBassed]

...on the other hand...

I am also finding the forum difficult at the moment.  You miss a day and the posts with photos accumulate.  Cuh!

[Andyjr1515]

The good thing about the change of plan is that it gave me more practice with the home-made radiusing jig 

If I ever get round to building a version 2 there are a few improvements I would make but, to be honest, it seems to do the job.  Here it is after one pass (cutting the radius and then indexing it forward 3mm or so each time):

 
I'm pretty sure the lines on the righthand side is that the two radius ends of the jig a slightly out with each other, causing one corner of the router bit to dig in.  You see the effect more here - but decent first pass rough radius?  :


After 15 mins or so with the radius block it was like this:


I think this was the right decision 

[Andyjr1515]

I generally slot before I trim to final width - I've had the edges ping off in the past which is not great if it's already at final size!

I've sorted the slotting routine with the G&W mitre box - it works quite well and quickly once you've got your head around what to clamp where to make sure nothing moves!  I was pleased to see that there is now a set-up and user guide pdf on the G&W web site - although modesty would forbid me saying who wrote most of it

And 1/2hr or so later it's all ready to trim to width:


Looking at the weather, there'll be plenty of time to make a bit more progress tomorrow

[TheGreek]

As you're planning on contouring the body, are you planning on using a similar jig to do that? 

[Andyjr1515]

And here it is, trimmed and ready for putting in the inlays:


As I was redoing the fretboard, I've added the extra couple of fret slots to 24.  The body shape has been designed, on the other hand, for full access and thumb anchor point for bends up to the 22nd. 

When it's all glued up and I can air-guitar it, I'll decide whether to provide the extra cutout area to the 24th or whether that would spoil the look.  I don't think Jane will be doing three-semitone bends on the 23rd and 24th so - for this one - it doesn't matter too much 

[Andyjr1515]

For the maple fretboard I was going to use some NZ Paua to get the contrast, but for the macassar I think MoP would work better.

I cut out a couple of swifts for the 12th and routed the shapes with the dremel precision base:


Then glued them in with epoxy mixed with fretboard sanding dust and added the MoP dots for the other positions:


Then a quick sand with the radius block:

[Jimothey]

3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

For the maple fretboard I was going to use some NZ Paua to get the contrast, but for the macassar I think MoP would work better.

I cut out a couple of swifts for the 12th and routed the shapes with the dremel precision base:


Then glued them in with epoxy mixed with fretboard sanding dust and added the MoP dots for the other positions:


Then a quick sand with the radius block:

This is shaping up to be a fine looking guitar!!

[Andyjr1515]

Each of the last few builds I've done the fretwork in different ways.  This one is no exception.  Having had some challenges in aspects of all of the other methods I've used, I thought I'd have a go at fretting before fitting the board to the neck.

Also, for this one, I've decided to skip the bound board.

My method of actually installing the frets is the same, though.  I run a tiny bead of titebond along the tang, then hammer, then immediately clamp using the radius block as the shaped caul:


One new thing for me is that I've bought a pair of fret tang nippers - very pleased with those so far...

[Andyjr1515]

OK - this is one of those times when I say 'why haven't I ALWAYS done it this way round????'

I have to say, I found inserting the frets, trimming the fret ends, filing the fret ends and the bevels SO much easier done before gluing the fretboard onto the neck. 

I had a prejudice against doing it that way round, but I think I've just done a flip!

I worked on this off and on over the day.  Still not glued onto the neck but looking pretty good, even close up, in terms of straightness of sides and seating of the frets:

[SpondonBassed]

12 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

OK - this is one of those times when I say 'why haven't I ALWAYS done it this way round????'

I have to say, I found inserting the frets, trimming the fret ends, filing the fret ends and the bevels SO much easier done before gluing the fretboard onto the neck. 

I had a prejudice against doing it that way round, but I think I've just done a flip!

I worked on this off and on over the day.  Still not glued onto the neck but looking pretty good, even close up, in terms of straightness of sides and seating of the frets:

I helped Jack do his first ukulele fretboard this way.

His kit had been supplied with a ready slotted fretboard and a length of fret wire.  I made up a press tool from a specialist pair of vice-grip pliers, suitably modified, and pressed the frets home.

When done the fretboard was curved by the summed effect of all of the fret tangs trying to widen the slots that they occupy.  The board was flexible enough to be clamped flat against the neck.  We used Superglue after.  A little drop at each end of the fret tangs wicks in and makes a swift bond.  He bonded the fretboard to the neck with Titebond when the frets were set.

Jack doesn't have the confidence for this sort of work so he bought a couple of ready made necks for his next few builds.

[Andyjr1515]

I'll do the rest of the body carve once the fretboard is on. 

The two jobs to do before I can do that is to fit the truss rod and to add the demarcation lines to the mating edge of the  fretboard.

Although for the maple board I was going for a bound fretboard using a binding already incorporating the feature lines:


...for the macassar, I've decided to go unbound.  Hence, I need to create the demarcation lines with veneer.

I've glued a maple veneer to the bottom of the macassar and then a black veneer to the bottom of that.

To make sure it's flat, I've clamped the fretboard tightly over the veneers using radius blocks as cauls and the whole caboodle sitting on a very flat and sturdy plank:

[TheGreek]

It's the attention to detail that I love with your builds.

[Andyjr1515]

The veneers are dry and trimmed.  Quite pleased with the result:

[Andyjr1515]

I will be putting the same demarcation feature under the headstock plate so I cut some offcuts of the maple and ebony veneers:


Then glued and firmly clamped under a decently thick block of sapele:


Then the final few jobs on the fretboard before fitting.  Added the side dots and filled the fret slots with epoxy mixed with macassar dust:



The headstock plate was clamped while being glued on using acoustic guitar bobbin clamps, but the fretboard needed something a little more substantial!

[Andyjr1515]

Now the fretboard is fixed, I can get on and finish the body carve