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Posted (edited)

I'm in the process of a 'sympathetic restoration ' of a recently acquired bass. I've read a lot about different products that have been used for refinishing, many people pointing out that some lacquers/ varnishes can react with others. I'm not completely stripping the body back, just getting the old finish sanded smooth, filling in dings/ dents etc. 

How do I know what was used for the original finish on the bass, so I don't screw up when I attempt to apply the new finish.

The bass in question is a 1977 Greco GOB 1200.

any ideas, and tips are most welcome.

Edited by alembic1989
Posted

Hi. Mine is Schecter Stilleto Elite 5. It`s a great bass but I`d like to restorate wood because my music style is realy specific (drone-doom), it requires a deeper sound. Whitch wood is the best for a deep tonal weight? Sorry if there are mistakes. I`m not a native english speaker. 

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, alembic1989 said:

I'm in the process of a 'sympathetic restoration ' of a recently acquired bass. I've read a lot about different products that have been used for refinishing, many people pointing out that some lacquers/ varnishes can react with others. I'm not completely stripping the body back, just getting the old finish sanded smooth, filling in dings/ dents etc. 

How do I know what was used for the original finish on the bass, so I don't screw up when I attempt to apply the new finish.

The bass in question is a 1977 Greco GOB 1200.

any ideas, and tips are most welcome.

picture might be a good idea ?

Posted

You can test the finish using Acetone - put a small bit of Acetone on the end of a cotton bud or tissue and wipe it on an inconspicuous area (i.e an area where it wouldn't matter if it melted the finish). If it melts/has an obvious effect, then the finish is Nitro.

Posted
2 hours ago, Manton Customs said:

You can test the finish using Acetone - put a small bit of Acetone on the end of a cotton bud or tissue and wipe it on an inconspicuous area (i.e an area where it wouldn't matter if it melted the finish). If it melts/has an obvious effect, then the finish is Nitro.

Thank you!

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

That is one hell of a fine looking bass.  If it was my bass, i'd be keeping it as standard as possible, cosmetically speaking

What exactly needed work ?  

Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, fleabag said:

Aha ... no worries. I've just seen your other thread and have read what you're doing. Keep it up :)

Thanks.

As in all these type of projects, the thing that messes things up is all the unforeseen obstacles.

But I want to do the best job I can and do justice to a lovely bass.

Having said that...I don't even know what it sounds like!

Bought it cos I've been gassing for one for years...it'd just be my luck if after all this work I don't actually like it ! 

:-)

Edited by alembic1989
Posted
2 minutes ago, fleabag said:

PS

your link a few posts above, goes to a Greco bass currently for sale in Japan ?  Different model number to yours

Just tried the link myself. It wasn't bought from Japan...it was London.

Don't know why that happened??

:-)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just an update.

I have discovered that a lot of parts that look like solid brass, are not. So while trying to sort out the pitting on the bridge assembly, and sustain block, I noticed some copper coming through...you live and learn I guess.

Refret and finger board is complete, and looks great.

Body looks much, much nicer now that I've sorted out some fairly sizeable dents, most dings, all the buckle rash, and have polished it. I decided against refinishing, I just rubbed down the original finish from 600- 1500 grit wet& dry, and used a fine rubbing compound...looking nice.

Next steps..

1) Re -shield cavity with copper shielding tape

2) Treat all controls and switches with high quality switch cleaner

3) Re- install electrics

4) Finish restoration of all " brass " fixtures in bridge and string anchor area. ( I've decided to leave the machine heads and ' badges' alone)

5) Make a new bone ( or possibly brass) nut

6) Re-assemble and set up.

 

There will of course be some unforeseen problems..there always are...but contrary to my normal nature of rushing..I'm taking my time and am trying to do the best job I can.

 

  • 3 weeks later...

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