How do I decide what radius is best for me?

[Greg.Bassman]

Hi everyone. It has been suggested that a flatter radius would provide a more even platform for my growing technique (ie tap, chords and bends). So I am thinking of sending my bass in to workshop to have it modified, but I’m undecided as to how flat I should take it.

I have visited my local guitar store a few times to try some basses, hoping to get an idea for radius, but the ‘factory’ setup on each of them was awful so I couldn’t quite tell what I liked for sure. The only thing that I can say possibly, is that 12” felt too rounded still; which leaves me with the possibility of anything above that.

How do I decide what radius is best for me? Are there any deciding factors that I should be considering? What radius inch would you suggest as a good ‘all-rounder’ for someone (like myself) who is looking to employ multiple techniques in their playing? Whats a safe bet? etc.

Cheers.

EDIT: The bass is a Yamaha BB1024 with a 10” radius. I love how the bass sounds, so I would rather convert the neck rather buying a new bass altogether.

Edited March 11, 2018 by Greg.Bassman

[Grangur]

Try a Warwick. They have a 20" radius?

[bubinga5]

Surely its possible to do these techniques on any radius

[CameronJ]

3 hours ago, Greg.Bassman said:

Hi everyone. It has been suggested that a flatter radius would provide a more even platform for my growing technique (ie tap, chords and bends). So I am thinking of sending my bass in to workshop to have it modified, but I’m undecided as to how flat I should take it.

I have visited my local guitar store a few times to try some basses, hoping to get an idea for radius, but the ‘factory’ setup on each of them was awful so I couldn’t quite tell what I liked for sure. The only thing that I can say possibly, is that 12” felt too rounded still; which leaves me with the possibility of anything above that.

How do I decide what radius is best for me? Are there any deciding factors that I should be considering? What radius inch would you suggest as a good ‘all-rounder’ for someone (like myself) who is looking to employ multiple techniques in their playing? Whats a safe bet? etc.

Cheers.

EDIT: The bass is a Yamaha BB1024 with a 10” radius. I love how the bass sounds, so I would rather convert the neck rather buying a new bass altogether.

Quite honestly I’d say that fingerboard radius, while important, isn’t the sole factor thing to consider. String spacing (at the bridge and the nut,)  string gauge (affecting tension) and neck profile are big contributing factors too and I’ve always found that the combination of them are very interactive in creating the overall feel of a bass.

For years I assumed I didn’t like 19mm string spacing because I’d played a couple of Ibanez BTB 5 stringers which had necks that felt to me like aircraft carrier decks. Once I’d found my Ibanez BTB33 5er with 17mm spacing I was happy. Then about 6 months ago I was drawn to the look of MTD Kingstons but was sceptical on the basis of their 19mm string spacing...until I tried a few of them out. The fingerboard radius is actually very similar to the BTBs but the neck profile and spacing at the nut make it one of the most comfortable basses I’ve played.

In the past I’ve sold basses thinking I didn’t get on with the scale length but in hindsight I realise that it was the string gauge causing a tension I didn’t like which was the real problem. A different set of strings would have been a cheap and easy fix but I didn’t know that at the time.

So my advice would be to try out as many basses as you can, including some that don’t appeal to you on paper. You’re likely to surprise yourself.

[dannybuoy]

I'd convinced myself that I preferred a flatter radius after posting my BB1025 so much until I tried a Musician Caprice, loved the neck, and only discovered later that it was a 7.5" radius! I certainly wouldn't go to the hassle of modding a bass for a flatter radius...

Interestingly the radius of the BB1025 is 23 5/8", and 10" for the BB1024. That's quite a difference - maybe just get the 5 string!

[Al Krow]

19 minutes ago, CameronJ said:

Quite honestly I’d say that fingerboard radius, while important, isn’t the sole factor thing to consider. String spacing (at the bridge and the nut,)  string gauge (affecting tension) and neck profile are big contributing factors too and I’ve always found that the combination of them are very interactive in creating the overall feel of a bass.

+1 to what Cam's suggesting. Is it the radius or how skinny / fast a neck is that will be the more important feature of neck playability? Be interested as to who / why are suggesting that the radius is going to make a helpful difference to the OP's growing technique?

6 minutes ago, dannybuoy said:

Interestingly the radius of the BB1025 is 23 5/8", and 10" for the BB1024. That's quite a difference - maybe just get the 5 string!

Quite a difference indeed! As ever, can't disagree with DB's suggestion as a fellow 1025 fan  

[Grangur]

2 hours ago, bubinga5 said:

Surely its possible to do these techniques on any radius

Can't claim to be an expert, but I was told tighter radius necks are better for string bending. Flater is better for tapping and hammer ons. 

[Hellzero]

The flatter the radius, the easiest the bending and tapping is. Otherwise you'll have to raise the action to be able to bend more than a tone after the 12th fret, which, by the way, only guitarist do. 

I think you are going in the wrong direction as the radius is only the smallest part of the equation. Simply go by a real luthier and have your bass perfectly set up, which means first a perfect differential fret dressing under simulated strings tension to be able to lower the action almost close to the frets themselves, but only few luthiers know what this is and how to do it...

And you certainly better carefully choose first your strings gauge, which means low for what you want to do, and stuck to it.

After that, the luthier will adjust the bass to your parameters and the magic will happen.

 

[chris_b]

Who suggested that you need a flatter fretboard for these techniques?

I've seen all these techniques performed on every kind of bass, so I'd question that advice.

I'd only change if I found that I actually had a physical problem with my bass.

[Grangur]

Damien Erskin wrote for NoTreble on this:

http://www.notreble.com/buzz/2016/11/09/curved-vs-flat-fingerboards-on-bass/

[BassBunny]

If you have decided to do it why not just go totally flat? I've got 2 ACG's with flat fingerboards and love them. Wouldn't go back to a radius if I was speccing a  bass build.

[biro]

For certain techniques, a small radius can be hellish, more on a 5 string than on a 4. I had a 7.25" classic '50 P with which I could do more or less anything. A 7.25" 5 string Marcus Miller V7 I had to sell rather swiftly--to small a radius for a fiver. 10" is actually more than fine for tapping and chording.

 

It is of course possible that you would enjoy a flatter radius more, but I think it is really inadvisable to go through such ab invasive mod for such a comparatively small change.