Keeping a bass original?

[The59Sound]

I changed my black pickguard to a pearloid version if that counts?!

[fretmeister]

If it's an investment vintage instrument then keep it original. Quite stupidly collectors of such things care more about that than whether the damn thing is actually playable. Oooo look it's got the original frets... worn down to be almost fretless and sounds crap as a result, but yay!

 

I've love a 70s jazz. But I don't trust myself. In under 10 mins I'd have upgraded the bridge, ripped out the heavy tuners and put in Ultralights, and if it's a heavy one I'd be routing out under the scratchplate too.

 

But then again... if it's for me and I want to gig it... then why not? I don't think I'd buy anything I didn't want to gig.

[Krysbass]

I recently faced this dilemma with the completely original, 9.5/10 condition Westone Thunder III I've owned from new in 1985. I love this bass, but for a few reasons hadn't played it for nearly 8 years.  Yet I couldn't bring myself to sell it; both due to the attachment I have to it and because the second hand market would be unlikely to pay much more than the £350 it cost new.

With the bass worth so little; I realised that keeping it original served no useful purpose, so replaced the electronics with a Bartolini system  - P and J type pickups and a 3-band EQ.  I have also fitted lightweight Gotoh tuners to improve the balance. 

I now have a great sounding and looking, very playable bass that I will be gigging with again in my mostly 80s band.  I'm not saying that what I've done is right in every situation,  but in this case it seemed better to me than letting the bass remain as an unplayed museum piece.

Edited April 19, 2018 by Krysbass

[martthebass]

As some of the above comments, if it's a genyooine 63 P bass then it would be sensible to approach any 'improvement' process differently to a 2018 Squier P bass.

I've had to 'improve' my 2005 EBMM Sterling Sub USA, I'd have preferred to keep it stock but the horrible sticky, flaking paint on the neck convinced me that intervention was required.  This was remedied at a fair cost which would never be recouped if sold but made the bass far more playable.

Edited April 19, 2018 by martthebass

[fretmeister]

7 minutes ago, martthebass said:

As some of the above comments, if it's a genyooine 63 P bass then it would be sensible to approach any 'improvement' process differently to a 2018 Squier P bass.

I've had to 'improve' my 2005 EBMM Sterling Sub USA, I'd have preferred to keep it stock but the horrible sticky, flaking paint on the neck convinced me that intervention was required.  This was remedied at a fair cost which would never be recouped if sold but made the bass far more playable.

My Ray 5 is now loads lighter, with lightweight tuners and far more comfortable.

 

There's also the tiny issue of having all the electrics ripped out and made into a passive P bass!

[wright/watt]

Having just bought an old Vigier Passion bass....I had no option to replace the Schaller 3D bridge,the saddles were totally siezed up and nothing would losen the roller threads on it.lubrication, heat etc.The original bridge and tuners were chrome but i fancied a change and ordered a black bridge and black/gold M4 Shaller tuners..as Black alone now duscontinued!!!  As to whether this lowers the value I don't know, but the bass plays like a dream.Have kept the tuners....no point to the bridge..

[wright/watt]

Having just bought an old Vigier Passion bass....I had no option to replace the Schaller 3D bridge,the saddles were totally siezed up and nothing would losen the roller threads on it.lubrication, heat etc.The original bridge and tuners were chrome but i fancied a change and ordered a black bridge and black/gold M4 Shaller tuners..as Black alone now duscontinued!!!  As to whether this lowers the value I don't know, but the bass plays like a dream.Have kept the tuners....no point to the bridge..

Edited April 20, 2018 by wright/watt
Put in twice by mistake