BreadBin Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 I picked up a magnifier lamp from eBay for under £20, with my rapidly failing eyesight I'd be knackered without it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 6 minutes ago, Woodinblack said: I have one of those very lamps upstairs in my office where I do electronics, from maplin. I suppose I will have to find one from somewhere else (as I couldn’t lose that). However, the thing I am lacking is a proper bench. went round my friends the other day, he gave me a set of legs for a bench, just got to make one. Also have to insulate the shed. he also gave me a 70x40x950 block of mahogany... Nice. What ideas is it giving you? A mahogany neck perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 Yes, he was selling loads as neck blanks. He was called to remove a wooden conservatory, it was about 50 years old and made of paduk and mahogany, this is from that, it’s been around a bit. But 950mm to me says headless! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Woodinblack said: Yes, he was selling loads as neck blanks. He was called to remove a wooden conservatory, it was about 50 years old and made of paduk and mahogany, this is from that, it’s been around a bit. But 950mm to me says headless! There are always alternatives. Be careful. You might find yourself following @Andyjr1515 over to the dark side and make yourself one of those widdly little six string thingies. Hang on though... would that be a neck through headless at 950mm? I'm liking it. Edited June 10, 2018 by SpondonBassed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 Not going to make a guitar I don't think. I have quite a few guitars but I really don't play guitars much at all. Yes, a neck through headless - he said 'oh do you want one of these neck blanks' so I went and got a ruler to measure it! I also have a P bass body, but that is for another project for a 5 string P bass with a non fender spacing (such as 15-16.5 mm), but more to play around with paper finishing, which is what started this whole thing in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 I nipped in to toolstation on the way back from shopping and picked up some 600 and 1200 paper. Now I have done the body in 1200 I can see what you mean. It felt smooth before I started, but after doing the back with the 1200, the other side suddenly felt as rough as old boots 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 Right, I had this feeling that I was being held back by something and realised it was the colouring. I would go and sand a bit then go and sand a bit more. I have all the bits, the only things I need to drill were the holes for the neck screws and the jack socket. Basically, I was procrastinating, and I had a bit of a colouring anxiety. So I decided, I wanted it red, I have the red and everything else, so if I just do it then it will be done. So I did it (well, I drilled one of the screw holes for the neck then realised I couldn't find my 13mm drill for the collet after doing a 14mm one and it being a bit loose). So I pained it red, with a small paintbrush. It drank up the red like it was going out of fashion. I will go over it again tomorrow, but it has taken the red fine, the line on the back that was worrying me, well, yes, you can see it but no it isn't bothering me. Some bits are redder than others, some a bit lighter. You can see the grain and all the imperfections in the wood, and turns out, I love it. It has an imperfection that I like, I can see the bits where I left a little mark, that I remember doing, I see the bits where the wood is different, where i have been watching it as I was working on it. I don't think it is going to win any awards, but It feels really 'personal'. It will be better once I oil it after the colour is done, but I am pretty happy with this. And in putting the neck on to take pictures, I can carry it round with the neck without dropping it - I guess the pocket is tight enough! Yes - I know I need to repaint the garden table! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreadBin Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 Looking good Woody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz39 Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 Handy bottle opener at the tail there too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 I'm not positive, but the dark / light areas may well be because of not using sanding sealer first. If you sealed the wood first, then i dont know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 No, I didn't seal it. But its hard to tell, the first pictures I took it was a lot more patchy, but it was still wet, those pictures are the last where it was settling down. I will see what it looks like tomorrow, and probably add more red. I also need to add a bit more oil to the electronics cover, that has one coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 That is certainly a serious red colour. You'll be sure to get noticed with that. Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 (edited) Hey! You could get away with eating beetroot sandwiches in the interval. Finger prints will not show up like on other finishes. /flippancy I think it's going to come up even better with the finish coats. From what I gather locally, the trick is to allow your stain coats to dry fully before deciding where absorption is light or heavy. Edited June 12, 2018 by SpondonBassed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 Just went and looked and this morning it is a lot more consistent and flat. The grain shows through easily, and dark edges are predictably on edges that are less finished, so on the electronics cavity that I didn't think about, around the screw and electronic holes (that are covered anyway) and on the edge where it shows the grain very well. There are a few lighter patches where I obviously didn't put as much colour as the other places. I will do another coat tonight when I get in - wonder if i should sand between coats? probably not as it isn't paint.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 When I finished with ink, I just did a quick once over with a 6000 grit pad which kept it nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 (edited) 6000 grit? Is that not just paper? 😮 Edited June 12, 2018 by Woodinblack 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 You can always sand the heavier dyed areas a tad and give it another wipe of dye. You'll always have some variation though as that's the nature of dye on natural wood. Otherwise you may as well have painted it instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Woodinblack said: Just went and looked and this morning it is a lot more consistent and flat. The grain shows through easily, and dark edges are predictably on edges that are less finished, so on the electronics cavity that I didn't think about, around the screw and electronic holes (that are covered anyway) and on the edge where it shows the grain very well. There are a few lighter patches where I obviously didn't put as much colour as the other places. I will do another coat tonight when I get in - wonder if i should sand between coats? probably not as it isn't paint.. I wouldn't call it sanding but it doesn't hurt to take off the nibs and surface debris that inevitably strike before each successive coat. I'd say sanding is only worth considering at this stage if your work fails the Veet stubble test with your missus' finest chiffon scarf. Edited June 12, 2018 by SpondonBassed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 4 minutes ago, Woodinblack said: 6000 grit? Is that not just paper? 😮 Micromesh pads go up to 12000 grit iirc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 To take off nibs, use the back of the sand paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Woodinblack said: 6000 grit? Is that not just paper? 😮 Actually, paper is an abrasive. Your standard white printer paper has china clay in it. It's such a fine grit that it can be used to polish some materials. The back of an abrasive paper sheet will do fine, like Grangur suggests. Edited June 12, 2018 by SpondonBassed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 OK, will do that. I don't mind the colour variation - I love the organic look of it, and the fact you can see the grain. The only bit I am not so keen on is you can see the line on the back, but it certainly isn't a major issue, just an observation. Considering by now I expected to have a pile of sawdust and to have given up and gone back to doing something I know, but instead I have something that looks increasing like a musical instrument astounds me 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 2 hours ago, Grangur said: To take off nibs, use the back of the sand paper. That's right. I used to use brown parcel paper too. Nowadays, I use the micromesh as @Norris suggests above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 I did another coat of red when I got in. Then after I did that, I loaded up the airbrush with red and went over it again. Then I loaded up the airbrush with red and added two drops of black. Was worried it might be too dark, tried it on a spare bit of wood. Still looked the same red. Did the edges of it, it pretty well looks the same red. Well, thats good, I like the red. Currently it seems slightly darker red after the second coat but it is hard to tell until it dries. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 15 hours ago, SpondonBassed said: Hey! You could get away with eating beetroot sandwiches in the interval. Finger prints will not show up like on other finishes. Ooh - good plan, how about these?! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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