high and low tension

[tom1946]

Hi, How do I tell the difference between high and low tension strings?

I use ernie ball hybrid slinky 45 - 105's and I don't know what tension they are.

I like a low action and understand that I need higher tension strings for that?

Can anyone give an example of HT strings please? or better still how to tell. There's nothing on the packet.

TIA

[ikay]

Ernie Ball don't provide string tension measurements but this D'Addario string tension guide may be of some help - http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf

See P10 for Nickel Roundwound Bass strings. The tensions for the equivalent gauges to yours would be: 45 - 42.8lbs, 65 - 51.3lbs, 85 - 48.4lbs, 105 - 40.3 lbs = total 182.8lbs.

Ernie Ball string construction (core/windings etc) may be slightly different to D'Addario so won't have exactly the same tension as this but should be pretty close.

45-105 is what Fender use as a factory fitted string gauge so it's a sort of de facto 'standard' as far as string gauge/tension goes. As a rough guide, 40-100s would be considered 'light', 50-110s would be considered 'heavy'. Of course the exact gauges/tensions and combinations used do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Edited April 26, 2018 by ikay

[ped]

Elixir tension charts here

https://www.elixirstrings.com/support/string-tension-for-tuning-guitar

I use super light with a very low action and love them to bits - they are slightly higher tension than other strings of the same gauge, although being super light they are relatively low tension as a whole.

[tom1946]

Thanks for that guys.

I don't understand the technology behind this so I'm struggling, all I need to know is, who makes higher tension strings? where do Ernie Ball sit with their 45-105 sets?

Or am I asking the impossible?

cheers.

[ikay]

Um, no single answer to what you're asking I don't think. Part of it is to do with how you're bass is set up and part is down to the construction of the strings. Also how you play.

For example, having a higher break angle over the bridge (or nut - via a string tree or more windings on tuning post to push string down) will make strings feel a little stiffer (ie. less compliant). If you play with a light touch you may get away with a very low action and using medium (or even light) tension strings.

Some general construction factors affecting string tension/stiffness include:

- Strings with a hex core will generally feel stiffer than a round core (they may be the same tension but will feel stiffer)

- Pressure wound strings will generally be higher tension than regular round wounds of the same gauge

- Flat wound strings will generally be higher tension than regular round wounds of the same gauge

These are just basic guidelines, the best thing is to try out a few different strings and see what works for you. From what Ped says, the Elixirs sound to be slightly higher tension than some other strings so they may be worth a try. As for where Ernie Ball 45-105s sit in the 'tension spectrum', I'd say pretty much in the middle.

 

Edited April 26, 2018 by ikay

[ped]

Some excellent points. Also some interesting reading here

http://www.stringbusters.com/stringfaqs.asp

(although don't order from them!)

[Twincam]

3 hours ago, tom1946 said:

Thanks for that guys.

I don't understand the technology behind this so I'm struggling, all I need to know is, who makes higher tension strings? where do Ernie Ball sit with their 45-105 sets?

Or am I asking the impossible?

cheers.

Your not asking the impossible, or at least shouldn't be. Some manufactures do give out a tension guide, but even then it's difficult, especially if going to another manufacturer. As already said by ikay, instrument setup and how hard you play are also big factors. 

There is a difference between a bass that's setup ok and a bass that is setup to exacting standards in every possible way (Not to sound too dramatic there). I would say unless you have a very heavy hand the Ernie ball 45 - 105s should easily be of high enough tension for a low to very low action. That being lower than a standard 2.4mm - 2.0mm action at the 17th fret. And without any untoward noise in the slightest, unless intended. If you have a light to very light touch then with a proper setup insanely low action is achievable with those strings. Although I feel there should be some leeway in a setup for more dynamics (harder playing) should the need arise. But everyone's requirements are different not just in terms of playability but in what sort of sound you want. As the action has a effect on that. 

Just to point out me saying the above was not in anyway a underhand sales tactic for setup work. 

 

[tom1946]

Thanks very much again, good sound advice and I'm off to do some investigating.

tom

[MoonBassAlpha]

It's also worth bearing in mind that the lower you set your action, the more catastrophic the effect of seasonal changes to the neck; a slight straightening could render the thing unplayable.

Also, and this is a matter of personal taste, I don't find the lowest achievable action yields the nicest sound, with normal playing, and restricts the available dynamics.

[Twincam]

33 minutes ago, MoonBassAlpha said:

It's also worth bearing in mind that the lower you set your action, the more catastrophic the effect of seasonal changes to the neck; a slight straightening could render the thing unplayable.

Also, and this is a matter of personal taste, I don't find the lowest achievable action yields the nicest sound, with normal playing, and restricts the available dynamics.

I think the first part depends very much on the individual neck (assuming wood material), they all are slightly different, such as the nature of wood. Even cheap necks of today seem to do a good job of resisting change brought on by atmospheric changes, I would say.

Even when pushing the more extremes of neck relief I've never seen anything go totally unplayable. If it did then you have set your action height more by the neck relief, which is wrong. Typically I set neck relief at .007 for flatter radius necks and up to .012 for old school 9.5 radius necks. Even if the neck straightened out totally, if the fret work is on point then it should be ok.

I've only had one bass that needed adjustment regularly, while others are ok at twice or so a year and maybe even just once a year. I will say though that I've always kept on top of adjustments and I feel that if you have a instrument regularly used, especially if in a working capacity you should make sure it's at it's best all the time. All it takes is 2 minutes a Allen key and feeler gauge. Or in a pinch even a standard paper business card .013

I fully agree with the second part of what you said, thats of course for my own taste. As I mentioned in my post some leeway is best. Plus it does give a more rounded tone.

Saying that many people manage with a very very low action and some even play hard that way and get a great tone that i could only dream of being able to.

Its sad maybe but that aspect of setup, tone and others individual abilities trully fascinate me.