SpondonBassed Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said: Having worked out the carve shape - and therefore the thickness of the body at various points in the cross-section - I was able to rout the main chambers and cable routes. Control chamber-wise, we are going for a Master Vol/Master Tone/Blend option, with the pots following the curve of the lower bout. Theoretically, I could rout deeper at the areas further from the neck but the swampash is so light it really won't make a difference. The rout in the top is more for aesthetics than weight. Bear in mind that the top will be curved and so this will slim quite a bit, it will eventually give the illusion of being a semi, when it's actually basically a solid: Before popping the top on, I will line the f-hole chamber with some redwood veneer to further give the illusion of depth. That's gonna be a highly desirable residence for today's thrusting young bachelor hamster. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 Just a touch more sanding on the top with a large flat block to ensure good flatness and the top's then ready to be glued on. As you see, I've added the veneer in the f-hole chamber: It certainly gives the illusion of a deeper chamber than it actually is: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 Final two things before closing the top. First - a tip I learnt on my veneering jobs - is take a paper template of the chambers. Especially as this will be carved to within an inch of its life, knowing where the chambers are is pretty crucial. All I do is make an indentation on some standard photocopying paper, including some positioning datum marks: The second thing I do is WAIT! Once it's glued, it's permanent. So I need to walk away from it for an hour or so, then come back fresh-minded and recheck: has EVERYTHING that needs doing before that top goes on been done? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 So a couple of hours have gone past since I did the above and I've come back to it and I can't think of anything I've missed. And so, having popped a couple of locating screws in in the pickup positions, it's being glued as I type. And you all know the mantra. This time it's in the key of F#: "You can NEVER have too many clamps!!!" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Just a touch more sanding on the top with a large flat block to ensure good flatness and the top's then ready to be glued on. As you see, I've added the veneer in the f-hole chamber: It certainly gives the illusion of a deeper chamber than it actually is: It's a funny shaped f. That's all I can say. If you don't want to call it a hamster-nest-orifice what about calling it an eyebrow hole? /larks I like the way that you have lined the visible bit of the cavity interior. Is there any further finish going on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: So a couple of hours have gone past since I did the above and I've come back to it and I can't think of anything I've missed. And so, having popped a couple of locating screws in in the pickup positions, it's being glued as I type. And you all know the mantra. This time it's in the key of F#: "You can NEVER have too many clamps!!!" There are far too many G clamps for the key of F sharp. Would you settle for G flat? Clamps 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said: It's a funny shaped f. That's all I can say. If you don't want to call it a hamster-nest-orifice what about calling it an eyebrow hole? /larks I like the way that you have lined the visible bit of the cavity interior. Is there any further finish going on that? I could call it the 'I can't be certain I didn't subconciously steal this shape off @Norris hole' Whether I put any finish on the veneer depends if any finish drips through said hole when I'm slurrying the top 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 Anyway - using router guide bushes and bearing cutters to take the ash excess off about 2mm at a time, some noise and lots of dust later, we have a basic body shape You can see here how much scooping's going to go on in the next stages! And that's to get it to 30mm max. I might go even slimmer if I think it's going to balance OK... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 11 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: I could call it the 'I can't be certain I didn't subconciously steal this shape off @Norris hole' Whether I put any finish on the veneer depends if any finish drips through said hole when I'm slurrying the top Norrisole it is then. Official. It's good to get clarification on that. I suppose deepening the colours in the red veneer by applying oil is without value if it's at the back of a Norrisole. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said: I could call it the 'I can't be certain I didn't subconciously steal this shape off @Norris hole' Whether I put any finish on the veneer depends if any finish drips through said hole when I'm slurrying the top Oi! I'll have you for copyright! 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 And to the next scary bit - cutting and gluing the ebony blocks. The process was straightforward but needed to be quite accurate. Not only does the ebony have to be cut spot on, but because of the radius, it needs to be certain that the middle is proud of the fretboard but the sides set into the fretboard so, when attacking it with the radius block to smooth them flush, I don't sand into fresh air. Here's 6 done and 4 to go: And here's all 10 in place: I'm going to leave it on the template until I've sanded them flush - in the event that any or them are flawed, it then would be a simple job to rout out the ebony with the index pin still in the right place and re-do. In the meantime, I popped across to Neil's and took some profile and depth measurements from his favourite playing neck: Every bass has its own feel, but making the new one to similar profile and measurements should make it have a comforting familiarity when Neil gets to play it 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 That's looking really good mate! I'll have to send you mine for my build 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 Well, it was a lot of work - but on a scale of 1 to 10, how satisfying was that? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz39 Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 Very nice; but you appear to have made a left-handed fretboard! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Well, it was a lot of work - but on a scale of 1 to 10, how satisfying was that? Let me check on my smugometer: Spoiler Cracking job Andy! I love inlaid features. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 1 hour ago, Daz39 said: Very nice; but you appear to have made a left-handed fretboard! Blast! Well, based on it feeling like the fretboard has taken longer than the body so far, I'd better just remake the body and persuade Neil that learning to be ambidextrous is a real life-skill! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 Fretboard not glued yet - quite a bit to do before that happens - but starting to properly look like a bass! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 Last time I went for a 'well person's checkup' at the local surgery, the GP told me that for the health of my heart, I should do "1/2hour of intensive effort at least once a week that you enjoy and that makes you hot and sweaty" and then gave me a big wink. How the Dickens did he know I have a Veritas Pullshave??? Sure enough, 1/2 hour later, I'm hot, sweaty and pleasantly fulfilled: What a doctor! What great advice! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 15 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Last time I went for a 'well person's checkup' at the local surgery, the GP told me that for the health of my heart, I should do "1/2hour of intensive effort at least once a week that you enjoy and that makes you hot and sweaty" and then gave me a big wink. ... Sure enough, 1/2 hour later, I'm hot, sweaty and pleasantly fulfilled: I re-read that but let me just make sure... wink is the correct spelling isn't it? Otherwise I'd say your doctor is extraordinarily friendly, if a little dodgy with it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 15 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Last time I went for a 'well person's checkup' at the local surgery, the GP told me that for the health of my heart, I should do "1/2hour of intensive effort at least once a week that you enjoy and that makes you hot and sweaty" and then gave me a big wink. How the Dickens did he know I have a Veritas Pullshave??? Sure enough, 1/2 hour later, I'm hot, sweaty and pleasantly fulfilled: What a doctor! What great advice! But seriously, it's great to see shavings so soon. Pure sculpture. Lovely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 (edited) Quite a bit of the bulk is now removed. The lower bout will be slimmed (to maintain the radius as it is shorter) and there is now quite a bit of more subtle carving to be done to get the curve even and smooth. I will be shortly moving to cabinet scraper for the rest of the back carve. You can see how much wood has gone, though, already: And maybe you can see why I took the template of the chambers: The chambers are as deep as the ash is thick where it meets the neck, so too shallow a carve and I could break through the back. Knowing exactly where those chambers come to is therefore essential. I will be aiming at 3mm from breakthrough at their thinnest. I won't be carving the top until the pickup routs have been done, but this is a decent time to start checking the weight. This is most of the weight componentry, less the pickups and pots, still with a lot of wood to take off - especially the neck carve with a lot of heavy maple to remove. Yes - MrsAndyjr1515 was out: So just under 6 1/2lbs. The pickups, truss rod, and electrics will add around 3/4lb, but I should lose most of that with the further wood removal. Target for finished bass will be 6 1/2lbs or less. Ref neck dive control, there are a number of things in play: The bridge is well back The strap button is in the 'goldilocks' zone I'm fitting these really nice lightweight Schallers: Final update, Neil has chosen the pickups. A couple of Nordstrands, passive, master vol, master tone, blend. Great choice! Edited June 16, 2018 by Andyjr1515 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 My local Aldi has fisherman's scales in the central aisle....obviously not as accurate as your kitchen scales but negates the need for entering "the Forbidden Zone"... 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 Starting to get there. And no break-through into the chambers! And why is the grain pattern so different on the two halves? It's the same timber but simply that the carved side is flipped between the two pieces. There was what looked to be a void on the smaller side that I couldn't afford to risk breaking into at this point of the carve (sometimes these voids appear from nothing in the middle of a solid piece of wood!). It was safer to flip it over and have that area a no carve zone than risk what would look like a flaw in the finished back. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 And we have frets! Ready to trim and bevel once the glue's fully dried. Then a demarcation veneer and then glue it on the neck 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 How do you prevent the fretboard from curling as you install the frets? Is it just the adhesive tape on the template? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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