Binding cutter

[Christine]

Hello

I'm new here, I hope this is in the right place. Does anyone know where I can get a rebate cutter to cut a 2.3mm step for binding. The best I have found is a 2.5 so far, I'm not sure if that will be shallow enough not to end up with the binding shallow after glueing.

Any help would be very much appreciated

Thank you

[Jimothey]

46 minutes ago, Christine said:

Hello

I'm new here, I hope this is in the right place. Does anyone know where I can get a rebate cutter to cut a 2.3mm step for binding. The best I have found is a 2.5 so far, I'm not sure if that will be shallow enough not to end up with the binding shallow after glueing.

Any help would be very much appreciated

Thank you

Hi and welcome 

Why not after you’ve rebated and glued the binding just use a trim flush cutter to remove the last 0.2mm 

Just an idea?? 

[Christine]

1 minute ago, Jimothey said:

Hi and welcome 

Why not after you’ve rebated and glued the binding just use a trim flush cutter to remove the last 0.2mm 

Just an idea?? 

Thanks, I had considered it but it will be a carved top with a varying height on the binding so I'm not totally convinced I can keep the router vertical or if I used the binding jig whether it would be vibration free. I suppose it could be done from the flat back of the bass but that would mean multiple height changes to the cutter on the router table which isn't the end of the world, certainly less work than scraping or sanding the 0.2 back flush. It would just be a lot easier with the right tool and then I have it for next time.

The other option would be to use a 3mm binding and scrape or rout that back flush but again I haven't been able to find a 3mm binding in white, I don't want to laminate two 1.5s or use three B&W ones.

I'm beginning to think ordering from StewMac will be my best option but it's so expensive with shipping and import

[Norris]

I'm not sure what sort of rebate cutter you're looking at. When I have done it I've used a hand router with a rebate jig. You can then adjust the height and depth of the rebate and use a normal straight cutter

Then use a cabinet scraper to scrape the binding level after gluing 

[Christine]

2 minutes ago, Norris said:

I'm not sure what sort of rebate cutter you're looking at. When I have done it I've used a hand router with a rebate jig. You can then adjust the height and depth of the rebate and use a normal straight cutter

Then use a cabinet scraper to scrape the binding level after gluing 

That is a good idea, thank you, I had considered something like that but wasn't sure how it would work.

Part of the problem is that the top of the bass body is carved like a Les Paul, so the edges are varying heights and varying angles so running a router manually over the top is difficult and because of the varying angles it will end up being. The jig I use is a bit like this

It follows the height of the top by rising and falling as well as keeping the router vertical. Your idea is perfect apart from doing the cut away under the neck where the throat of the jig is the limiting factor.

There's a video of one similar here

It would be easier if I just ordered the right cutter from StewMac but I'm just adverse to ordering from abroad when I can support a company in this country first.

[SpondonBassed]

Welcome Christine.

[Andyjr1515]

If its a fixed neck, I'm not sure how you would get all the way to the neck with any router arrangement unless I've misunderstood something. 

One option - because the type of jig you show is actually a very good design - might be to rout on the jig as far as it will go close to the neck, and finish the last inch with sharp chisels?

And yes - warm welcome.

[Christine]

38 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

If its a fixed neck, I'm not sure how you would get all the way to the neck with any router arrangement unless I've misunderstood something. 

One option - because the type of jig you show is actually a very good design - might be to rout on the jig as far as it will go close to the neck, and finish the last inch with sharp chisels?

And yes - warm welcome.

Thank you. I'm planing on cutting the binding rebate before gluing the neck in place (set neck). I had initially planed it to be a through neck but thankfully I discounted that and yes you're right it would have been a problem I hadn't considered. I had thought maybe to glue the neck after scraping the binding flush and after some sanding but before the final sand (sort of see what I think at the time. It's the very first Les Paul type guitar I've ever built so its an adventure

I've settled on buying the Radian 3 flute rebate cutter set and see how it pans out, maybe even use a 3 ply white/black binding, I just don't know until I cut a couple of test pieces. At a push I might be able to put a wrap of masking tape on the guide bearing too if need be (not nice I know)

[Daz39]

Well  - you came to the right place OP - there's more instrument building knowledge here than you can chuck a factory of MIMs at.

I don't have the foggiest though. I suggest sandpaper, a sharp screwdriver and copious expletives!