rubis Posted July 13, 2018 Author Share Posted July 13, 2018 Thats very kind of you Bridgehouse I intended to use an old pickguard, bridge cover and neck plate to ‘mask off’ areas that would not get UV yellowing and then more clear coat over the top. Its the first time I’ve used nitro and it does seem to ‘melt’ into the previous coats a bit, so that may help it look more natural Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted July 13, 2018 Author Share Posted July 13, 2018 Thats just the sort of effect I’m after, nice one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 Yes it will melt in - and it actually does - it doesn't layer at all - they melt together. Go for a very light amber tint - not a full on amber tint or it will look like algae! I drizzled mine on from a good 20" or so, and then put a few specific spots on for effect. Masking off will give you a good effect - I just masked off my pick guard and lightly attached it. It wasn't difficult at all, and it does create the effect you are after - quick coat of clear after and you are done. I did satin clear to give it a bit more authenticity. Of course, then I lacquer checked it - which is a totally new form of madness and torture all of it's own. 3 months curing the nitro and then in and out the freezer like a mad thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 (edited) @rubis - managed to find the other shots I was looking for just now - these are outdoor shots on the day I actually sprayed it. First one is the daphne blue as is, and then the overspray so you can see how it looks prior to ageing, relicing and so forth! And here are some outdoor shots after the relic process - it's a heavy relic as I was going for a proper battered look.. Hope that helps - if you need any more help just give me a shout. Edited July 13, 2018 by Bridgehouse 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted July 13, 2018 Author Share Posted July 13, 2018 That’s awesome mate It’s reassuring to know I was on the right track with the method, thank you kindly for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 Just now, rubis said: That’s awesome mate It’s reassuring to know I was on the right track with the method, thank you kindly for your help No problem at all! Good luck with it - it's pretty scary shooting that first bit of tint over a pristine daphne blue finish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Things are at a bit of a hiatus at the moment with the body ageing, I have a Spitfire pickguard on it's way, and until it gets here I can't do the yellowing process. I tried using a pickguard from my son's Westfield p bass, but it's not a very good fit on this body, so I might as well be patient and wait a while so that the 'un-yellowed' bit under the pickguard matches the shape of the actual guard properly. I'm afraid I might end up with a bit showing which doesn't look properly sunburned, like a white tan line! I've been online shopping for a few bits and bobs, got some Durham's water putty, which apparently is great for the clay dot markers, a 7.25" radius block and a a period correct truss rod nut. I also found this clip on youtube, which may be the simplest way of doing a veneer fingerboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Yes, if you're going to all this trouble It's not a lot of extra effort to wait for the guard and get it right. Do you have a pic of the guard, just to keep us going..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Happy to oblige! I actually got it from a gentleman of this parish, who contacted me, having ordered it for a project of his own, which very sadly won't be going ahead. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 That's going to be perfect. Sonic Blue and mint are a classic combination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 I'm contemplating how to go about getting an aluminium shield that goes underneath it. you can get them in USA at reasonable cost, but I can't find a UK supplier. I will have to wait and see if I get stuck-on for import taxes on the pickguard, it seems a lottery whether you do or don't, and if I could I would rather source parts here. I could always make the aluminium guard, I used to be a blacksmith years ago! I think they are 14 gauge aluminium sheet, and I will have a template to use! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Should be easy enough. Kudos for considering a detail that won't be seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Fascinating thread. A lot of thought is going into this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 Thank you Andy A quick update just to show I haven't been completely inactive, I've done some shopping for some more parts while waiting for the Spitfire guard to arrive (and clear customs.....ouch 🤑) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 (edited) The pickguard has arrived, and very nice it is too. Nice touch to sign and date it on the back The second picture shows it on the as yet, un-yellowed body, so it looks a little bit odd, but it's a nice fit and when compared to the black one from my son's Westfield copy, there's quite a bit of difference in fit. I'm so glad I waited rather than use the black one to create an un-yellowed patch, as the different profile would have caused a problem Edited July 30, 2018 by rubis 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 Looking good. Looks a bit like this actually: https://vintageandrareguitars.com/product/1965-fender-precision-bass/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 If it ends up looking like that I'll be well pleased Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 I've done a bit of yellowing on it now, it was great fun once I got going, in fact quite difficult to hold back and not go over the top with it! Rick and Bridgehouse were dead right, this is addictive! I fitted parts onto the body to provide natural masking, leaving the un-aged sonic blue underneath, and didn't screw the scratchplate down tightly so that I wasn't left with a hard line, as it would be (and in fact is) warped with age and so there would be a softer line between the yellowing and the clean colour. I hope this looks more realistic. I know it's only really visible when the scratchplate is removed, but I might as well do it if I can. I did a bit with the bridge cover on and then removed it and did a bit more, to try to make it look like the cover has been on and off 'over the years' I will tweak it a bit to rub back a little bit of the yellowing on areas that, from what I've seen in the dozens of photo's I have looked at, seem not to yellow. I can only imagine that this is down to some sort of continual wear pattern from contact against your body whilst playing. I mean on areas such as the forearm contour, the belly contour and the lower curve where it rests on your leg when you are seated, but again, I need to remind myself……..less is more! sorry if the photos don't show the colours or detail up very well, but the natural light was fading and i had to take them indoors. I'll take more photos when the clear coat goes on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 That’s it - spot on. Addictive it is indeed - you’ve done a good job there! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Nice work. Can't wait to see the finished item. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 Whilst waiting for the lacquer to harden a bit I have got some more hardware to finish off the body. Strap buttons, neck plate and I was lucky enough to find an aluminium pickguard shield on Ebay Germany which has saved on yet more import taxes as they don't seem to be available in the UK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 Once again however I need the advice and help of those lucky enough to have or had a mid 60's p bass. Before I 'age' the neck plate I want to add a faux serial number, and instead of beginning L..... I want to use just numbers to read 170364. I have seen metal number/letter stamp sets online, and they come in 3mm and 4mm sized stamps, but can someone measure the actual size of the numbers for me please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 Next question is about the aluminium pickguard shield. The red lettering on the back appears to say 'ALCLAD' but I can't make out what the rest of it says Can anyone help please? Once again thanks in advance for any help, advice, opinions or criticisms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) Here's my 64: I reckon they are 4mm: They are prob in-between 3.5mm and 4mm - but 3mm looks too small to me.. Edited September 5, 2018 by Bridgehouse 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 To the rescue again😌 Thanks again sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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