Who uses factory set ups?

[fretmeister]

As an experiment I put my Ray 5 back to the factory set up specs for the action.

 

I measured it carefully as per the EBMM set up guide. I also removed a shim I had put in the neck pocket.

i use 40-125 strings so I tweaked the rod, again to meet the factory spec setup.

 

I was quite surprised how high the action was for a factory set up. No doubt others would find it medium or low!

 

But saying that, I’m playing big band stuff and fret rattle is a huge no-no, and now there is very little. 

Not sure I’ll keep it this way, but I will try it for a couple of weeks and see if I like it better this way after getting used to it.

Feels quite different! 

 

[FinnDave]

I bought a 6 string Ibanez a few weeks ago, and after a few days changed from the factory-fitted Elixir roundwounds for a set of LaBella flats, and then set it up according to the factory spec, as I always find that a good place to start. Feels fine to me, and just a few days ago I had an opportunity to let someone who sets up guitars and base for a living play the bass - and he said the bass was well set up.

For now, I'll be leaving things as they are, it certainly plays well.

[fretmeister]

After a couple of weeks playing it with the factory set up - I like it a lot.

I have had to adjust a little playing the G string due to the usual EBMM habit of only having a micron movement before falling off the fretboard but I'm getting the hang of it.

 

It's not as clanky as my former metally self would have preferred but it does suit the big band stuff far better. The low B seems stronger too. I'm guessing that the string was being choked a bit even if I couldn't hear any buzz.

[4000]

On ‎16‎/‎09‎/‎2018 at 21:37, fretmeister said:

As an experiment I put my Ray 5 back to the factory set up specs for the action.

 

I measured it carefully as per the EBMM set up guide. I also removed a shim I had put in the neck pocket.

i use 40-125 strings so I tweaked the rod, again to meet the factory spec setup.

 

I was quite surprised how high the action was for a factory set up. No doubt others would find it medium or low!

 

But saying that, I’m playing big band stuff and fret rattle is a huge no-no, and now there is very little. 

Not sure I’ll keep it this way, but I will try it for a couple of weeks and see if I like it better this way after getting used to it.

Feels quite different! 

 

I always find factory set up to be way higher than I prefer. Bear in mind everyone plays differently. I both fret and pluck very lightly.

[uk_lefty]

I use my Sire exactly as it arrived. It's set up beautifully, such a low action it's effortless to play. I'm even going to use the same type of strings when I re-string it. Their standard set up, or maybe it's Thomann's, is perfect for me.

[Twincam]

On 16/09/2018 at 21:37, fretmeister said:

As an experiment I put my Ray 5 back to the factory set up specs for the action.

 

I measured it carefully as per the EBMM set up guide. I also removed a shim I had put in the neck pocket.

i use 40-125 strings so I tweaked the rod, again to meet the factory spec setup.

 

I was quite surprised how high the action was for a factory set up. No doubt others would find it medium or low!

 

But saying that, I’m playing big band stuff and fret rattle is a huge no-no, and now there is very little. 

Not sure I’ll keep it this way, but I will try it for a couple of weeks and see if I like it better this way after getting used to it.

Feels quite different! 

 

Most factory setup specs are on the slightly higher side of what's achievable with level frets. I recently also looked at the Ernie ball site.

I will be pragmatic and say it's I think its to cater to every type of player. Rather than get around poor fret work etc. 

There was an old 1960s (i believe) advert, for a bass guitar posted on here some time ago, where the manufacture guaranteed 3mm action Lol. 3mm is a huge gap looking at the E string, it's amazing to think a more modern 2.3 - 2mm e string height looks so different. 

[Twincam]

3 hours ago, fretmeister said:

After a couple of weeks playing it with the factory set up - I like it a lot.

I have had to adjust a little playing the G string due to the usual EBMM habit of only having a micron movement before falling off the fretboard but I'm getting the hang of it.

 

It's not as clanky as my former metally self would have preferred but it does suit the big band stuff far better. The low B seems stronger too. I'm guessing that the string was being choked a bit even if I couldn't hear any buzz.

I too struggle with the mm g string. Although actually it made my technique better. 

I think higher action can sound better, but it depends on the bass and player. But certainly it can improve it, even if no fret buzz was presemt before. Some people don't believe that though. I think it's because the player ever so slightly plays harder and the strings vibrate in a larger arc allowimg the pickup to really capture the movement. It could also be that sometimes moving the strings away from the pu have a more pleasing effect. 

[Marc S]

I rarely play a bass for long, without tweaking the set-up
I think by tweaking the truss-rod and / or bridge bit by bit - you get to learn how much you can adjust individual basses
And sometimes, what sounds or feels better on each bass.

But maybe that's just me? lol
EDIT: I don't think I have ever looked up the Factory settings, and then tried to set a bass up the same....

Edited September 25, 2018 by Marc S

[drTStingray]

On 16 September 2018 at 21:37, fretmeister said:

As an experiment I put my Ray 5 back to the factory set up specs for the action.

 

I measured it carefully as per the EBMM set up guide. I also removed a shim I had put in the neck pocket.

i use 40-125 strings so I tweaked the rod, again to meet the factory spec setup.

 

I was quite surprised how high the action was for a factory set up. No doubt others would find it medium or low!

 

But saying that, I’m playing big band stuff and fret rattle is a huge no-no, and now there is very little. 

Not sure I’ll keep it this way, but I will try it for a couple of weeks and see if I like it better this way after getting used to it.

Feels quite different! 

 

I generally have mine set to factory spec or thereabouts. I've taken the view that as they design the things, they should know how they perform best.

I also use the same string guage as you on my SR5 and find them excellent. I play blues/jazz/jazz funk/soul on mine and whilst having a slightly lower action than the factory spec helps when playing very fast and complex lines, I find too low an action doesn't help when playing straightforward grooves - the factory spec also allows a little more scope for dynamics in the weight of plucking the strings - too low an action and you easily get to Stanley Clark style string popping when that wasn't the intention (as the strings clatter against the fretboard). 

Maybe this is why I tend not to encounter the string balance issue some people mention on some basses. I've often wondered how much that is down to compromised set up. All bass designs are different and those thinking that setting say pick up height as per a Precision on every other bass design (I've come across a lot of people who think this) are likely to get peculiar results (such as individual strings sounding comparatively quiet). I guess the factory specs are there for a reason. It's certainly a very good starting point in my view. 

 

Edited September 25, 2018 by drTStingray

[Deedee]

I don’t think I’ve ever played a bass set as ‘factory’ that I’ve felt entirely comfortable with.  Always feels too high to me.

A bit of minor tweaking suffices (usually straightening the neck to pretty much arrow straight and lowering the saddles to suit).

Edited September 25, 2018 by Deedee
Typo

[drTStingray]

11 minutes ago, Deedee said:

I don’t think I’ve ever played a bass set as ‘factory’ that I’ve felt entirely comfortable with.  Always feels too high too me.

A bit of minor tweaking suffices (usually straightening the neck to pretty much arrow straight and lowering the saddles to suit).

I think you're right and everyone has a different playing style. The factory spec setting in my view is a good start point to tweak from to suit individual preference. 

[chris_b]

A factory set up? That's totally uncharted territory for me!

I take my strings down till they buzz, then take them up until they don't. After that, if the action is too high or one string or fret is still buzzing I'll probably get the Bass Gallery to level the frets. Whatever they do, the bass comes back feeling exceptionally good to play. My basses only get 1 set up. After that they seem to stay right for years.

[gary mac]

I view factory settings as a guide.  Prior to setting up an instrument for a customer, I will ask questions as to their playing style and preferences. Once the work is complete, I will get them to have a play and if necessary, I will then make any further adjustments. 

 

[Cosmo Valdemar]

I've always considered factory setups to be comparable to military intelligence.

[drTStingray]

I'm surprised anyone views factory set ups as arbitrary guides. All I can say is I'm glad you're not mechanics (technicians) servicing and fixing my car.

Whilst there's scope for minor variation to suit style I think anyone varying too far is likely to be creating their own issues. 

I always ask anyone doing any repair work to set basses to factory settings - I'm quite happy to tweak beyond that within reason.  

[ped]

Nope. Never. Apart from the fact that nearly all my basses have come to me used, I never find a ‘factory setup’ (if indeed the manufacturer publishes it even had one, I know many don’t and just adjust by feel) way too high. In fact several basses haven’t allowed a low enough G string even with the saddle in the lowest position. I’ve often had to file it down! 

[4000]

17 hours ago, drTStingray said:

I'm surprised anyone views factory set ups as arbitrary guides. All I can say is I'm glad you're not mechanics (technicians) servicing and fixing my car.

Whilst there's scope for minor variation to suit style I think anyone varying too far is likely to be creating their own issues. 

I always ask anyone doing any repair work to set basses to factory settings - I'm quite happy to tweak beyond that within reason.  

But setup preference is hugely dependent on many factors and there can be enormous variations in how people play. I once played a bass set up for someone where I couldn't even fret the note properly it was so high, never mind actually play it. Yet he hammered the living daylights out of it and sounded great doing so, so it obviously wasn't a problem for him. Whereas I once had a couple of people attempt to play one of my basses only to be met with nothing but buzz, whereas when I played it it didn't buzz at all, even when I dug in (for me). I once tried setting up a bass to Roger Sadowsky's preferred measurements, just to see what it was like. I hated it and couldn't get my thing going at all. To me a factory setup is like a one size fits all sweater. It's never going to actually fit everybody.  

[FinnDave]

The factory spec set up is a good place to start, then adjust according taste and playing style, that's how I look at it.

[Guest MoJo]

I go through phases of 'low action - factory setup - higher action'. Each has it's merit and it's drawbacks.

[Guest MoJo]

12 minutes ago, 4000 said:

But setup preference is hugely dependent on many factors and there can be enormous variations in how people play. I once played a bass set up for someone where I couldn't even fret the note properly it was so high, never mind actually play it. Yet he hammered the living daylights out of it and sounded great doing so, so it obviously wasn't a problem for him. Whereas I once had a couple of people attempt to play one of my basses only to be met with nothing but buzz, whereas when I played it it didn't buzz at all, even when I dug in (for me). I once tried setting up a bass to Roger Sadowsky's preferred measurements, just to see what it was like. I hated it and couldn't get my thing going at all. To me a factory setup is like a one size fits all sweater. It's never going to actually fit everybody.  

I had entirely the opposite situation. I got to play someone else's bass where the action was so low that every note choked, yet he managed to play it without a problem. To this day, I have no idea how he got a note out of it. 

[Marvin]

I usually start with the factory recommendations for neck relief and tweak from there, to get something comfortable and suitable for me.

It’s probably not far off a factory set up. I don’t play heavy at all, but I still don’t seem to be able to get a cigarette paper low set up to work for me. I just get loads of rattle and buzz

[ped]

Tbh if the bass has a truss rod, i'll start with the neck dead straight with my chosen strings and go from there.

[4000]

23 hours ago, MoJo said:

I had entirely the opposite situation. I got to play someone else's bass where the action was so low that every note choked, yet he managed to play it without a problem. To this day, I have no idea how he got a note out of it. 

It was probably me & mine.

Seriously though, this is kind of the point. The variations in fretting and plucking techniques are so vast. Plus "factory setups" don't necessarily factor in different string gauges, tensions, the sound you're after (affected by setup) etc etc. I always have my neck pretty much dead straight both for sound and playability.

I'll add that my 2 Rics aren't setup as low as I would normally go, simply because they're 45 year old instruments and the tolerances aren't there, so I have to compromise a bit.

 

Edited September 28, 2018 by 4000

[ped]

5 minutes ago, 4000 said:

It was probably me & mine.

Seriously though, this is kind of the point. The variations in fretting and plucking techniques are so vast. Plus "factory setups" don't necessarily factor in different string gauges, tensions, the sound you're after (affected by setup) etc etc. I always have my neck pretty much dead straight both for sound and playability.

 

I think our basses would be friends

[Mastodon2]

Factory settings are really just a starting point to make the instrument half playable. I can't remember any guitar or bass I've bought where I've stuck with them. A lot of the time the instruments are sent to the retailer not even in the recommended manufacturer specs, they're just in whatever state they happened to be when the QC inspector glanced over the thing. 

Generally, I like my neck straighter and the action lower than they come from the factory.