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Eude throws down the gauntlet


Andyjr1515

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Next step is to tweak the width of the neck pocket, ensuring that it is central and that the centre line of the neck matches the centre line of the body (which happily, and to my great surprise, it does!):

Ecu8ahel.jpg

80t5stKl.jpg

 

The next step is going to be to rout a slot, at the 2 degree angle, to allow the neck to drop down until the top of the neck is flush with the top of the body , the neck is sitting at 2 degrees downwards and that the join at the heel is tight against the bottom cutaway of the body.

Might have to go and have a cup of tea before I tackle THAT little lot.... ;)

 

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40 minutes ago, eude said:

Wow @Andyjr1515, that all sounds a bit nerve wracking?!

Measure twice, cut once 😉

Eude

...but this sounds more like "measure about 20 different interrelated things twice making sure not to muddle them up, then measure them again, walk away from it for a bit, go back, measure again for good luck, THEN cut once..."

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1 hour ago, RichardH said:

...but this sounds more like "measure about 20 different interrelated things twice making sure not to muddle them up, then measure them again, walk away from it for a bit, go back, measure again for good luck, THEN cut once..."

And some!

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Bit of tidying up to do, but I think this is pretty close to plan.  You can tell by the artificial light that it's taken all day :lol:  :

BoNIYrql.jpg

You can see the angle here by looking where the upper cutaway angles where it joins the neck

Here's the back - again, pending a bit of tidying up of the joints:

kTSoe5hl.jpg

 

 

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One of the things that @eude and I have been discussing is the colour of the fretline markers.  We've gone for redwood veneer which should compliment nicely with the top.  Here is a sample I did on our cherry cupboard at home, which will be a similar colour tone to the finished katalox:

F6l4xuYl.jpg

Should look pretty classy.  I'm aiming to have all the fretlines installed tomorrow.

 

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Going to continue with the body carve on this to get those edges properly rounded.  I always find it helpful to see exactly where the fretboard is going to lie so I planed it to finished taper first and then band-saw cut the plan-view shape of the neck to the same taper. 

Or, in other words, any excuse for a mock-up :D

iycZilbl.jpg 

 

Always plenty of room for me to completely f**k it up, but it's looking nice so far :)

The carbon rods are on order, as are the set screws and inserts for the neck fixing and the luminlay for the side markers, so - other than popping the wings on for the headstock - will set the neck aside for a few days until those have arrived and so will concentrate on the body shaping.

 

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Guest Marcoelwray
1 minute ago, Andyjr1515 said:

No - it's going to be oiled :)

MMMMMMMMMmmmmmh ! I like that so much ! I just refin a '98 old thumb with an amazing figured Ovangkol body, the oiling was spectacular! I have a video, wondering myself if there's any need to post it..

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Those of you who follow my builds know that I give the wood a coat of slurried tru-oil quite early in the process.  This because it needs a 'soak in' coat anyway and I find it easier to spot if there are any lumps and bumps in the carve or sanding scratches. 

These shots were taken in rapidly losing light but probably give a reasonable representation of what the final colour tones and overall look will be:

R74xp6Al.jpg

8uC7ULll.jpg

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You all know what they say in guitar building circles: "If you haven't got anything else to say, then just do a quick mock-up" :lol:

Here it is in better light.  Once the tru-oil finish has been done properly, the surface will be silky smooth satin but the colour tones will be pretty close to this.  In real life the red hue comes out a touch more (Canon CCDs are notoriously poor for accurate red shades) but it's starting to look like a bass:

5tRtQVzl.jpg

Today is all about the neck joint.

I'm going for stainless steel allen-head machine-screws and inserts with set-in ferrules rather than the plate shown in this shot here.

lM5zQo7l.jpg

 

   I'm going to plug and re-drill all the existing holes first so that they are an accurate 4mm dia.  I have some machined ferrules - slimmer than the 'normal' ones - on their way from Kay's Fasteners and I MIGHT add a couple more, angled inset from the front two in order to prevent any movement resulting from the string pull.  It I was clever enough and skilled enough, I would put a hardwood biscuit joint in the heel area - but I don't think I am 9_9

Once I've got the joint sorted, I can start carving the neck and heel transition.

This is definitely one of the 'measure 14 times, drill once' days...

 

 

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Guest Marcoelwray

I don't really know why but in the first place I saw it more "exotic" once finished, but it seems it's going to be a sober and classy finish. It suits very well too, very clean. 

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1 hour ago, Marcoelwray said:

I don't really know why but in the first place I saw it more "exotic" once finished, but it seems it's going to be a sober and classy finish. It suits very well too, very clean. 

The slurry and buffing later in the finish process will enhance the figuring but yes, it is essentially a tight-grained richly coloured wood.  When I put the coats on, which is closer to how it will look at the end of the process, it looks good enough to eat :)

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