noobie question on truss rod adjustment and new strings

[lowdowner]

For years now I've been playing a Vigier bass with a graphite neck and no truss rod. Late last year (2018!) I bought a Spector and it's 'traditional' and has a truss rod. It also came with 45-100 gauge strings from the factory. 

I'd like to put my favourite strings on which happen to be 45-105.

If I replace the strings with a slightly heavier gauge will I need to adjust the truss rod or not?

I know it's a noobie question but it's a *very* long time since I had to worry about truss rods!

[Johnny Wishbone]

Usually but not always. Some strings have higher (or lower) tension than others for a given gauge, so you won't really know for sure until you make the change.

Change the strings, tune to pitch and leave overnight/a few hours. Check the neck relief and adjust the truss rod if necessary. Normally a quarter-turn or so would be enough for such a minor change in string gauge. YMMV of course.

Edited January 2, 2019 by Johnny Wishbone

[lownote]

I'd strongly agree with test before twist. it's really not that big a change.

Edited January 2, 2019 by lownote12

[lowdowner]

12 minutes ago, Johnny Wishbone said:

Usually but not always. Some strings have higher (or lower) tension than others for a given gauge, so you won't really know for sure until you make the change.

Change the strings, tune to pitch and leave overnight/a few hours. Check the neck relief and adjust the truss rod if necessary. Normally a quarter-turn or so would be enough for such a minor change in string gauge. YMMV of course.

Do I need a feeler gauge to test the neck relief?

 

[lownote]

If you have them, that's easiest and accurate. I go for .3mm. But a lot of people just hold the E string down at the last and first frets and run a business card between the 8th fret and string. 

Edited January 2, 2019 by lownote12

[lowdowner]

Just now, lownote12 said:

if you have them, that's easiest and accurate.  but a lot of people just hold the E string down at the last and first frets and run a business card between the 8th fret and string.  well, I do anyway.

that's where I'll start then

thanks

[lownote]

you may need a capo or friend's finger to provide the 1st string clamp

[lowdowner]

37 minutes ago, lownote12 said:

you may need a capo or friend's finger to provide the 1st string clamp

I have a capo from my guitar days

 

[mybass]

Leave it as is until you’ve tried the new strings on it...as mentioned by Johnny Wishbone you may not need to adjust at all as the truss rod may be able to cope with the ‘average’ of gauages around E string 95 to 105. Once the strings are on you could lay a straight edge metal rule ( in good condition!) along the frets to see if string clearance is too much or not.

(It might also mean that the nut grooves for the E and A strings could very possibly need a very slight widening to allow the strings to sit flush in their seating. If they are sitting slightly proud your action could be affected).

Edited January 2, 2019 by mybass

[PatrickJ]

I'm sure there are loads of YT vids for this but Elixir have a series of videos that talk through bass set up step by step.

This one is focussed on truss rod adjustment.  If nothing else it will show you how to measure the neck relief to see if an adjustment is needed.

In the manual for my guitars this is suggested to be done after every string change, especially if you are changing gauge.

Edited January 2, 2019 by PJ-Bassist

[lowdowner]

43 minutes ago, mybass said:

Leave it as is until you’ve tried the new strings on it...as mentioned by Johnny Wishbone you may not need to adjust at all as the truss rod may be able to cope with the ‘average’ of gauages around E string 95 to 105. Once the strings are on you could lay a straight edge metal rule ( in good condition!) along the frets to see if string clearance is too much or not.

(It might also mean that the nut grooves for the E and A strings could very possibly need a very slight widening to allow the strings to sit flush in their seating. If they are sitting slightly proud your action could be affected).

thanks - great advice

[mentalextra]

This is quite interesting. Scott decides an adjustment of the cheap bass is needed at about 3:10, and starts cranking on the truss rod and 'eyeballing' the strings, it's the weirdest thing. Bearing in mind the 'relief' is measured in thousands of an inch he must have eyes like a hawk? Although it's only a 'cheap' bass so it doesn't matter!

 

[lownote]

If you do it regularly you soon get to eyeball it close enough.  Playing styles vary so much it's not really that critical to 1/1000 inch. It takes me a second to assess my relief by eye and if I check with a measuring tool I'm always pretty accurate.

[mentalextra]

1 minute ago, lownote12 said:

If you do it regularly you soon get to eyeball it close enough.  Playing styles vary so much it's not really that critical to 1/1000 inch. It takes me a second to assess my relief by eye and if I check with a measuring tool I'm always pretty accurate.

"Near enough's good enough!"

That's how the Fodera is setup at the factory?

[stewblack]

If you don't have a capo a pen and elastic band can be pressed into service.

Edited January 5, 2019 by stewblack