Andyjr1515 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 19 minutes ago, Norris said: An idea? Wrap the neck in cling film then cast it in plaster. You can then take measurements, make cardboard templates, etc. from the positive form Genius! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 (edited) For tweaking the body shape, I find Inkscape a decent poor man's CAD package, but I do find it easier to start with pencil, set square and paper. Main reason is that the fundamental limits are very easy to get down - the design envelope, the neck dimensions, etc.. For the envelope, I traced round a P bass body I have hanging around (as you do), then marked against that the fretboard dimensions (including 12th fret relative position) using a Squier hanging on the wall and then overlaying the maximum dimensions of the walnut - which, at 320mm max is a touch narrower than a P. Using @fleabag 's photo as a guide, I drew a general outline that I will then transfer into Inkscape to do the aesthetic tweaking. But here's the rough pencil-drawn outline: Initial thoughts are that the leading edge of the top horn needs to be a touch steeper and the top waist maybe a tweaked a bit to match the offset of the tail. But I can tweak that to my and @fleabag 's hearts content on Inkscape. The other part at this stage is to look at the thicknesses of the various components at the neck joint: This is full scale, again using a Squier neck for dimensions - although when @fleabag 's arrives I'll double check it - and here we're in a bit of good luck. Because the walnut is relatively thin (we'll be using basically two tops rather than a top and thicker back) the plan is to have a central splice. And in a flash of inspiration I think I know what that should be! @fleabag wants a purpleheart pickup cover and the neck to be stained to match. So why not use the purpleheart neck splices that David Dyke sells as the body splice. These are the splices in my Swift Lite neck: And they are 6mm thick. And 6mm in between top and back walnut of 13mm each is 32mm - perfect! But there's another bit of good luck. Have another look at that drawing: See the (to scale) back wood. And the 6mm central layer (ie purpleheart) and look where the bottom of the neck heel sits! On top of the back assembly. Then add the depth of the neck - and the fretboard is EXACTLY where my Squier neck fits in relation to the top of the top. And the bridge that @fleabag is sending me is the Schaller low height roller unit - which is the within the adjustment range of a standard Fender P or J bridge I'm chuffed at that Next jobs are to draw the back and then load the drawings into Inkscape - and that's tomorrow's job. Edited January 19, 2019 by Andyjr1515 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Looking good, maestro !! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 PS those purple stringers in the bass above look real nice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 12 minutes ago, fleabag said: PS those purple stringers in the bass above look real nice That will be the same wood I use for the control panel and the pickup cover 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Just one question; Will you two be tweaking each other in private or are we forced to watch you both? I have a bucket of cold water on standby just in case. Nah. This is the bit where the magic happens; when Andy and client riff off of each other to get the design passed off. You're in good hands Fleabag. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 4 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: That will be the same wood I use for the control panel and the pickup cover Oh my good grief. Sweeto ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 PM on the neck Andy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 I've done an in initial minor tweak on the shape before I get it onto Inkscape: One of the reasons for doing that is that I will turn it over and trace the back view - again, I find it's easier to 'think' through options for the bottom joint with a pencil and rubber... But the other thing that is essential on these types of build is a bit of prototyping. @fleabag's neck is on its way but, in the meantime I have a 6-string electric neck to hand that I can fiddle about with. This is VERY roughly carved, but this is the basic concept. The neck heel sits on the body back in the normal way, and the top is carved to fill in the gaps: At the back, pre-carve, it covers this area. You can see the thinnest part of the top fillet between the back and the neck: Clearly the main rectangle of the heel has to remain uncarved as that is where the neck sits and is attached. However, the 'half moon' area and edges can be curved and carved to look a little more elegant and to reduce the Fender-style 'brickwall' arrival of the body as your fretting thumb moves up towards the upper frets. Indeed, there's no reason why a Precision Lyte (?) softened corner carve couldn't be incorporated - there's plenty of meat to support the machine screws: I still may be proved wrong, but I think the above flat back/carved top fillet concept might just work.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Personally I'd shorten the lower horn by an inch, an inch and a half, or so - a more modern look. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 What you want is Polymorph. Brilliant stuff! Here's a video if you don't know what I'm talking about. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 1 hour ago, TheGreek said: Personally I'd shorten the lower horn by an inch, an inch and a half, or so - a more modern look. Yes - I agree. I was going to do that on version 2 and forgot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 1 hour ago, bertbass said: What you want is Polymorph. Brilliant stuff! Here's a video if you don't know what I'm talking about. Mmmm - that might work. Looks less messy than plaster of paris…. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 2 hours ago, TheGreek said: Personally I'd shorten the lower horn by an inch, an inch and a half, or so - a more modern look. Bu...bu... but i dont want my horn shortened , matron 🤓 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Did a quick mockup in Inkscape. Ignore the chalk marks on the wood and also the white border round the purpleheart pickup cover, but this is broadly to scale in terms of where the wood fits. Slightly shortened horn but nothing that a bit of surgery couldn't fix if you wanted a bigger one, @fleabag I can't make the large bout wider because of the wood width, but maybe the top horn a tad smaller? Or a bit shorter? Or the back a bit rounder? Edited January 20, 2019 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 There isn't a "standard" look for single cuts yet so finding something that is automatically "easy on the eye" isn't straight forward. I'd lower the top of the upper horn a little but then I'd probably be aiming to replicate my Psilos bass - remember how many attempts we had before we got that it as I wanted?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Liking that a lot Andy, front horn is fine, lower horn is fine. Back a bit rounder would be nice. Looking good though !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) My interpretation Andy's Edited January 20, 2019 by TheGreek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 8 minutes ago, fleabag said: Liking that a lot Andy, front horn is fine, lower horn is fine. Back a bit rounder would be nice. Looking good though !! This is the same, but with the back a bit rounder: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 By the way - the pickup rectangle might not be to scale... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Nailed it. And i realise the pup isnt to scale If that front horn overhang on the neck works out neat and tight , like we want, you'll be crowned ' genius ' for the umpteenth time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 11 minutes ago, fleabag said: Nailed it. And i realise the pup isnt to scale If that front horn overhang on the neck works out neat and tight , like we want, you'll be crowned ' genius ' for the umpteenth time Ref Mick's observation (he does have a very good eye for such things), I'll do a version with the top horn not made smaller but just rounding off that slight peak off the top and see how that looks side by side. It'll be a while before I cut wood so next will be to go back to the paper version, cut out the revised shape and overlay it on the actual timber just to make sure so plenty of time to make sure it's as you want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Thanks Andy but be careful with designing by committee...when I look at my version it looks a bit Wal-ish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 No probs with mocking up alternatives - be nice to see what changes would look like without any danger. Once it all kicks off, there's no going back, so looking at different shapes now, rather than when it's too late is no bad thing PM incoming 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 So this is with the peak: This is a bit off the peak: And this is a bit more off the peak: Subtle or what Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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