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Danish oil and wire wool for finishing bare wood


Beedster
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Depends how nice the wood is - some alder is really very boring to look at!

The basic process is very fine sand paper (with block) to make sure fine scratches and bumps are gone, then rough steel wool (or plastic) then finest - follow the instructions on the bottle for the oil. Its usually apply a coat or two of thinned oil, then rub dry about ten mins later (to stop it sealing the surface) then as many coats of oil as you can over a few days, then a coat or two of beeswax about a week later.

My preference is to use tung oil - it seems to be less coloured than some, and has less nasty things added. I also like Warwick's expensive wax, as it doesn't build quickly into a glossy shine but builds up more gradually.

Good luck

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Tung oil (pure) and Warwick wax worked well on my Warmoth although you need to allow plenty of time between coats for real drying to take place. I was leaving 24 hrs between coats and it still became very wet until it was kindly 'dehumidified' in Alan (ACG's) workshop for a while. Applying the oil with the pad and wiping the wet away after about 20 min worked well too.

I'd recommend the 'Scotchbrite' type of nylon 'wire wool' as it doesn't leave tiny bits of metal embedded in the wood.

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One thing I forgot to mention - I'd suggest going for a minimal thin oil finish (one or two diluted coats and two or three oil). That way way you can play the bass, keep it in good shape etc but its still easy to strip back if you later want to give it a proper spray job.

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Thanks guys. When we talk about 'diluted oil' are we talking diluted with water, white spirit, someting else (red wine's a strong possibility it being a Sunday evening)? Also, can I use Warwick wax - which I used on a previous project (Sparky's Beedster Custom Precision :) ) and which I love the feel of - on bare wood, or does it need an oiled wood base?
Many thanks
Chris

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Danish oil is kind of a vague term, I used Rustions Danish oil for finish my Wishbass, and a lot of sanding, came out well, could do witha few more coats though. Rustins is thinned Tung oil and stuff to stop it drying as fast and make it easier to apply. I think some 'danish oil' is wipe on varnish type stuff. It won't mix with water, some sort of solvent is needed.

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[quote name='GreeneKing' post='348056' date='Dec 7 2008, 07:16 PM']I diluted with pure Turpentine - smells good. Why did you have to metion red wine. Justed finished 3,300 words of an essay and have none in :)[/quote]

Thanks for the help GK, I have several bottles in, apologies for not being able to get one to you in virtual space :huh:
Chris

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Hi I did my Jazz parts bass with Danish oil 2 coats per day total 8 coats , Then I left it for a week & polished with Carnuba wax . It was a ash body. I loke the look anly draw backwas it is easily damaged ie marked dinted etc.
In the end I ended up putting 2 coats of poly on the body ( clear ) the body looks the same but dosent dammaged as easily.
1 advantage of the danish oil is if you scratch it is you can just put another coat of danish oil

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