walshy Posted May 17, 2019 Posted May 17, 2019 (edited) Iām not sure if you can get build-gas? You can get gas build up šĀ Maybe you can! After drooling over many of your builds Iāve decided to give it a shot! Luckily enough I make furniture/kitchen and shepherd huts (self taught so no real training and still very much learning) Ā so access to wood and machinery isnāt hard so guess Iām lucky there. So I have some black walnut in stock so Iām going to use that for the first 60ās P bass build. I have a allparts 60ās neck already so Iāll use that but I will have a go at making a neck and stuff too. So, Iām after any help or pointersĀ Ā from you guys, youāve far more experience thanĀ I do! Fingers crossed for a probably long learning journey š Couple of pics of glued up blanks, enough for two just in caseš¬ Edited June 28, 2019 by walshy 7 Quote
bassfan Posted May 17, 2019 Posted May 17, 2019 Nice one! Good luck on this mate...! šš»šš» 1 Quote
Unknown_User Posted May 17, 2019 Posted May 17, 2019 (edited) Looks good.Ā I got an American black walnut board for a through neck in a build I have planned for the far, far future.Ā It's beautiful wood. I just need to work out how to get the slight bow out of it. Edited May 17, 2019 by Unknown_User Quote
SpondonBassed Posted May 17, 2019 Posted May 17, 2019 Are you going for a natural finish?Ā You've got some interesting contrasting grain runs to play with. Quote
walshy Posted May 17, 2019 Author Posted May 17, 2019 2 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: Are you going for a natural finish?Ā You've got some interesting contrasting grain runs to play with. May leave one natural and maybe paint the other. As long as I donāt balls up the routing š¬ 1 Quote
Andyjr1515 Posted May 17, 2019 Posted May 17, 2019 5 hours ago, walshy said: Iām not sure if you can get build-gas? You can get gas build up šĀ Maybe you can! After drooling over many of your builds Iāve decided to give it a shot! Luckily enough I make furniture/kitchen and shepherd huts (self taught so no real training and still very much learning) Ā so access to wood and machinery isnāt hard so guess Iām lucky there. So I have some black walnut in stock so Iām going to use that for the first 60ās P bass build. I have a allparts 60ās neck already so Iāll use that but I will have a go at making a neck and stuff too. So, Iām after any help or pointersĀ Ā from you guys, youāve far more experience thanĀ I do! Fingers crossed for a probably long learning journey š Couple of pics of glued up blanks, enough for two just in caseš¬ Yes - that bottom picture is wild! Quote
walshy Posted May 17, 2019 Author Posted May 17, 2019 8 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: Yes - that bottom picture is wild! Yeah I think that may be the natural one. Looking forward to getting cracking and seeing how it comes out. 1 Quote
Cuzzie Posted May 19, 2019 Posted May 19, 2019 (edited) Looking good so far and I will be watching as to what to do! Wont be able to chip in too much with the actual chopping and moulding the wood etc. As I am only starting on repairing bodies and popping bitsaās together, but hopingĀ to progress to this! i suppose the good thing is you have basses to use as templates to draw around. Tip I got from another is make a template from thin wood, polystyrene etc and copy all relevant points, holes etc accurately, measure 85 times and cut once! When it comes to your finish, yes itās a pain in the derriĆØre, but a very good sanding job really will be your friend. If you ever want to āpopā the grain a little more, a blowtorch is great to do this and you can achieve it without scorching it GoodĀ luck! Edited May 19, 2019 by Cuzzie Quote
walshy Posted May 19, 2019 Author Posted May 19, 2019 4 minutes ago, Cuzzie said: Looking good so far and I will be watching as to what to do! Wont be able to chip in too much with the actual chopping and moulding the wood etc. As I am only starting on repairing bodies and popping bitsaās together, but hopingĀ to progress to this! i suppose the good thing is you have basses to use as templates to draw around. Tip I got from another is make a template from thin wood, polystyrene etc and copy all relevant points, holes etc accurately, measure 85 times and cut once! When it comes to your finish, yes itās a pain in the derriĆØre, but a very good sanding job really will be your friend. If you ever want to āpopā the grain a little more, a blowtorch is great to do this and you can achieve it without scorching it GoodĀ luck! Yeah cheers mate. I bought an MDF type jig set online for a P and J so Iām lucky not to have to craddock about with that too much. Should be easy enough as long as my router skills are ok.Ā Yeah thanks for the tip for popping the grain. Itās a way off I suppose but trying to gather as many tips as poss as I go. Quote
walshy Posted May 25, 2019 Author Posted May 25, 2019 Rough cut outs done on the bandsaw, got as much out as poss to make Routing easier. I had to wait for new router bits for body shaping and cavities. Ā AnythingĀ Ā I should be aware of with the router bits? Obviously little bits at a time? Do you guys drill the cavities / neck pocket before you router them? Re sanding, what grit do you experienced dudes sand to? Grain filler etc... Hopefully get a big push on this week. All other bits ordered. Can't bloody wait! 1 Quote
Cuzzie Posted May 25, 2019 Posted May 25, 2019 So far as sanding goes 80 through to 400 minimum. If I am feeling the love I go through to 800-1000 1 Quote
walshy Posted May 25, 2019 Author Posted May 25, 2019 17 minutes ago, Cuzzie said: So far as sanding goes 80 through to 400 minimum. If I am feeling the love I go through to 800-1000 Thanks dude, Iāve got up to 600g disks in stock so will use them and see how it looks.Ā Quote
Cuzzie Posted May 25, 2019 Posted May 25, 2019 That should be plenty, once I get past about 320 I personally tend to stop using power orbital sander and go by hand, you can really work on dents and scratch marks then, you have to do some by hand anyway around the curves 1 Quote
Cuzzie Posted May 25, 2019 Posted May 25, 2019 Good lighting as well for sanding, nothing worse than missing a bit! 1 Quote
Jabba_the_gut Posted May 26, 2019 Posted May 26, 2019 10 hours ago, walshy said: AnythingĀ Ā I should be aware of with the router bits? Obviously little bits at a time? Do you guys drill the cavities / neck pocket before you router them? For me, IādĀ use a Forstner bit to remove the bulk of the cavities then use a router to tidy it up. I also spend quite a bit of time making templates for the cavities and the body itself to get accurate shapesĀ with the router. Looking nice so far! 1 Quote
walshy Posted May 26, 2019 Author Posted May 26, 2019 2 hours ago, Jabba_the_gut said: For me, IādĀ use a Forstner bit to remove the bulk of the cavities then use a router to tidy it up. I also spend quite a bit of time making templates for the cavities and the body itself to get accurate shapesĀ with the router. Looking nice so far! Thanks mate, aye thatās what I thought get as much material out with a drill and then tidy with the router. Iāve got a 9mm set of jogs I bought off the net so they should do for the first run and see how they do. If it goes well Iāll make a hardwood set maybe Quote
SpondonBassed Posted May 26, 2019 Posted May 26, 2019 (edited) 6 hours ago, walshy said: Thanks mate, aye thatās what I thought get as much material out with a drill and then tidy with the router. Iāve got a 9mm set of jogs I bought off the net so they should do for the first run and see how they do. If it goes well Iāll make a hardwood set maybe May I draw the distinction between the Forstner bit and the drill bit for some of the readers who might take them as being the same thing? Forstner Bit Used to quickly remove large quantities of material and leave a flat surface. Short pilot without threads - Doesn't penetrate the workpiece much beyond the depth of cut.Ā Does not draw the bit into the workpiece Flat cutting face with three or more cutting edges - Multiple cutting edges reduce the tendency towards chatter. No side flutes - Side flutes are unnecessary for this sort of cut and can remove material that you want to keep. Ā Ā Wood Drill Bit Used to make holes for dowels and screws. Larger pilot with threads to pull the drill into the workpiece - Bites into the workpiece and can draw the bit past the depth you seek. Flat cutting face with only two (usually) cutting edges - Two cutting edges offer less friction and speed up the cut.Ā These tend to chatter and the hole cut is seldom true. Side flutes to break up wood chips as the drill penetrates deep into the workpiece - Necessary when drilling deep.Ā Not needed for shallow cuts and can be a handicap when you seek precision cuts. Ā Ā Edited May 26, 2019 by SpondonBassed 4 2 Quote
walshy Posted May 26, 2019 Author Posted May 26, 2019 Just now, Cuzzie said: Love a forstnerĀ bit Just bought a set, arrive tomorrow 3 Quote
walshy Posted May 29, 2019 Author Posted May 29, 2019 All routed out, dry fit of the neck and all seems ok. Now sanding, lots and lots of sanding!! All bits bar pick ups here so almost dry fit time! 4 Quote
walshy Posted May 29, 2019 Author Posted May 29, 2019 7 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: Well done!Ā Looks good Thanks mate, Hated routing at first but kinda enjoyed it once I remembered to take my time and it wasn't a rush. Started shaping the arm and belly curves too and will give it a tentative dry run over the next few days before I commit to the many hours of sanding and sealing. Its kind of addictive isn't it!Ā š 1 Quote
Unknown_User Posted May 29, 2019 Posted May 29, 2019 Those look ace.Ā Lovely piece of wood.Ā What sort of finish are you putting on it? 1 Quote
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