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Finally, first builds underway 🤞Both now complete


walshy

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I’m not sure if you can get build-gas? You can get gas build up 😂 Maybe you can! After drooling over many of your builds I’ve decided to give it a shot! Luckily enough I make furniture/kitchen and shepherd huts (self taught so no real training and still very much learning)  so access to wood and machinery isn’t hard so guess I’m lucky there. So I have some black walnut in stock so I’m going to use that for the first 60’s P bass build. I have a allparts 60’s neck already so I’ll use that but I will have a go at making a neck and stuff too.

So, I’m after any help or pointers  from you guys, you’ve far more experience than I do! Fingers crossed for a probably long learning journey 😂

Couple of pics of glued up blanks, enough for two just in case😬

DFC3D04C-C1BF-4DD0-BC7F-5D419016B369.jpeg

FE1096AA-9063-4CFD-8369-559822D5FC64.jpeg

26345A60-66DF-4698-98CF-01E2DD8E030F.jpeg

Edited by walshy
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2 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

Are you going for a natural finish?  You've got some interesting contrasting grain runs to play with.

May leave one natural and maybe paint the other. As long as I don’t balls up the routing 😬

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5 hours ago, walshy said:

I’m not sure if you can get build-gas? You can get gas build up 😂 Maybe you can! After drooling over many of your builds I’ve decided to give it a shot! Luckily enough I make furniture/kitchen and shepherd huts (self taught so no real training and still very much learning)  so access to wood and machinery isn’t hard so guess I’m lucky there. So I have some black walnut in stock so I’m going to use that for the first 60’s P bass build. I have a allparts 60’s neck already so I’ll use that but I will have a go at making a neck and stuff too.

So, I’m after any help or pointers  from you guys, you’ve far more experience than I do! Fingers crossed for a probably long learning journey 😂

Couple of pics of glued up blanks, enough for two just in case😬

DFC3D04C-C1BF-4DD0-BC7F-5D419016B369.jpeg

FE1096AA-9063-4CFD-8369-559822D5FC64.jpeg

26345A60-66DF-4698-98CF-01E2DD8E030F.jpeg

Yes - that bottom picture is wild!

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Looking good so far and I will be watching as to what to do!

Wont be able to chip in too much with the actual chopping and moulding the wood etc. As I am only starting on repairing bodies and popping bitsa’s together, but hoping to progress to this!

i suppose the good thing is you have basses to use as templates to draw around. Tip I got from another is make a template from thin wood, polystyrene etc and copy all relevant points, holes etc accurately, measure 85 times and cut once!

When it comes to your finish, yes it’s a pain in the derrière, but a very good sanding job really will be your friend.

If you ever want to ‘pop’ the grain a little more, a blowtorch is great to do this and you can achieve it without scorching it

Good luck!

Edited by Cuzzie
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4 minutes ago, Cuzzie said:

Looking good so far and I will be watching as to what to do!

Wont be able to chip in too much with the actual chopping and moulding the wood etc. As I am only starting on repairing bodies and popping bitsa’s together, but hoping to progress to this!

i suppose the good thing is you have basses to use as templates to draw around. Tip I got from another is make a template from thin wood, polystyrene etc and copy all relevant points, holes etc accurately, measure 85 times and cut once!

When it comes to your finish, yes it’s a pain in the derrière, but a very good sanding job really will be your friend.

If you ever want to ‘pop’ the grain a little more, a blowtorch is great to do this and you can achieve it without scorching it

Good luck!

Yeah cheers mate. I bought an MDF type jig set online for a P and J so I’m lucky not to have to craddock about with that too much. Should be easy enough as long as my router skills are ok. 

Yeah thanks for the tip for popping the grain. It’s a way off I suppose but trying to gather as many tips as poss as I go.

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Rough cut outs done on the bandsaw, got as much out as poss to make Routing easier. I had to wait for new router bits for body shaping and cavities.  

Anything  I should be aware of with the router bits? Obviously little bits at a time? Do you guys drill the cavities / neck pocket before you router them?

Re sanding, what grit do you experienced dudes sand to? Grain filler etc...

Hopefully get a big push on this week. All other bits ordered. Can't bloody wait!

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2E0E24D8-DC3F-45EF-94B5-A8E169724D4E.jpeg

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17 minutes ago, Cuzzie said:

So far as sanding goes 80 through to 400 minimum. If I am feeling the love I go through to 800-1000

Thanks dude, I’ve got up to 600g disks in stock so will use them and see how it looks. 

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10 hours ago, walshy said:

Anything  I should be aware of with the router bits? Obviously little bits at a time? Do you guys drill the cavities / neck pocket before you router them?

For me, I’d use a Forstner bit to remove the bulk of the cavities then use a router to tidy it up. I also spend quite a bit of time making templates for the cavities and the body itself to get accurate shapes with the router.

Looking nice so far!

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2 hours ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

For me, I’d use a Forstner bit to remove the bulk of the cavities then use a router to tidy it up. I also spend quite a bit of time making templates for the cavities and the body itself to get accurate shapes with the router.

Looking nice so far!

Thanks mate, aye that’s what I thought get as much material out with a drill and then tidy with the router. I’ve got a 9mm set of jogs I bought off the net so they should do for the first run and see how they do. If it goes well I’ll make a hardwood set maybe

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6 hours ago, walshy said:

Thanks mate, aye that’s what I thought get as much material out with a drill and then tidy with the router. I’ve got a 9mm set of jogs I bought off the net so they should do for the first run and see how they do. If it goes well I’ll make a hardwood set maybe

May I draw the distinction between the Forstner bit and the drill bit for some of the readers who might take them as being the same thing?

Forstner Bit

  • Used to quickly remove large quantities of material and leave a flat surface.
  • Short pilot without threads - Doesn't penetrate the workpiece much beyond the depth of cut.  Does not draw the bit into the workpiece
  • Flat cutting face with three or more cutting edges - Multiple cutting edges reduce the tendency towards chatter.
  • No side flutes - Side flutes are unnecessary for this sort of cut and can remove material that you want to keep.image.png.8b00eea408721adeda2229c1474d6427.png

 

 

Wood Drill Bit

  • Used to make holes for dowels and screws.
  • Larger pilot with threads to pull the drill into the workpiece - Bites into the workpiece and can draw the bit past the depth you seek.
  • Flat cutting face with only two (usually) cutting edges - Two cutting edges offer less friction and speed up the cut.  These tend to chatter and the hole cut is seldom true.
  • Side flutes to break up wood chips as the drill penetrates deep into the workpiece - Necessary when drilling deep.  Not needed for shallow cuts and can be a handicap when you seek precision cuts.

image.png.a6659dfa7e5c524dca156e0314106bb8.png

 


 

Edited by SpondonBassed
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7 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Well done!  Looks good :)

Thanks mate, Hated routing at first but kinda enjoyed it once I remembered to take my time and it wasn't a rush. Started shaping the arm and belly curves too and will give it a tentative dry run over the next few days before I commit to the many hours of sanding and sealing. Its kind of addictive isn't it! 😁

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