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Channel switch through patchbay not working


Kamiel
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I'm quoting myself from another topic, maybe here someone can help me, or at least explain why what I want to do is not possible.

18 hours ago, Kamiel said:

Finally had the time to do some propper testing and I have one problem. Maybe here someone can help me with it:

The 'patchbay' is simply jack connectors connected with each other. They are stereo jacks (bought the wrong ones cause mono would have been okay but I doesn't matter for the signal normally) so it's three little cables soldered between two jacks. The thing that isn't working is my amp-channel-switch, so switch plugged into a jack, and a normal guitarcable from jack to amp. This doesn't work and I don't understand why. Could it be the stereo jack's f-ing things up, or is it just not possible to carry the signal longer than the normal switch-cable length? Or could there be another problem? It's not that the soldering isn't done properly cause they all work for the other appliances. 

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On 24/05/2019 at 17:44, BigRedX said:

What is your amp?

What are you using to switch channels?

Can you provide a photograph of the sockets in your patchbay?

Does the channel switching work if you bypass the patchbay?

I don't want to spam my own topic, but I would love some answers, so no I have given the needed info, no idea what could cause the problem? :)

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3 hours ago, Kamiel said:

I don't want to spam my own topic, but I would love some answers, so no I have given the needed info, no idea what could cause the problem? :)

Are you sure that your soldering is correct between the stereo sockets. Tip to tip, Ring to Ring, Sleeve to Sleeve?

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13 minutes ago, EBS_freak said:

Are you sure that your soldering is correct between the stereo sockets. Tip to tip, Ring to Ring, Sleeve to Sleeve?

Yes, and when I (for testing) put my bass-signal through it works properly so it appears to be soldered properly...

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Unfortunately your photograph only shows the sockets and not the wiring between them. Can you post a photo showing that?

When you are using this patchbay you are plugging the footswitch into one of the sockets inside you pedal case(?) and then connecting the corresponding socket on the outside to the case to the foontstwich socket on the back of the amp?

Do all four pairs of sockets give the same result?

Does it make any difference if you use a different lead between the case and the footswitch socket on the amp?

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16 hours ago, BigRedX said:

Unfortunately your photograph only shows the sockets and not the wiring between them. Can you post a photo showing that?

When you are using this patchbay you are plugging the footswitch into one of the sockets inside you pedal case(?) and then connecting the corresponding socket on the outside to the case to the foontstwich socket on the back of the amp?

Do all four pairs of sockets give the same result?

Does it make any difference if you use a different lead between the case and the footswitch socket on the amp?

I don't have a proper photograph of the wiring between them, but it's simply just the same pieces on the two sockets connected. 

That is indeed the way I use to connect the switch to the amp. 

All four pairs give the same result, AND all four pairs do work when I use them for putting signal through, so bass in outside socket, corresponding socket into pedal, pedal into other inside socket, corresponding socket into amp... works for all of the pairs. 

I have tried cables of which I'm sure they work, and they are all just instrument jack-jack cables.

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1 minute ago, BigRedX said:

Do you have a multi-meter or continuity tester?

The friend that soldered them has one, so that is something I want to try, but I have exams so it's gonna take some time before I can go over there with my board. 

But the main question here is: Should it work the way I did it? ;)

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Okay, thanks. 

I'll guess I'll have to wait untill I can make use of the multimeter. 

To be honest, I don't even switch channels that often, I just wanted to include it in my board for completeness, if you get what I mean :)

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Is the footswitch a simply passive switch that controls a relay or does the pedal have any logic in it (sorry not familiar with the amp)? It may be the length of the cable has caused voltage drop and by memory, the states of the Fenders are controlled by voltage levels... and this setup may be screwing with it.

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1 minute ago, EBS_freak said:

Is the footswitch a simply passive switch that controls a relay or does the pedal have any logic in it (sorry not familiar with the amp)? It may be the length of the cable has caused voltage drop and by memory, the states of the Fenders are controlled by voltage levels... and this setup may be screwing with it.

My guess would be that it's just a passive switch that conrols a relay, but I'm not a 100% certain.

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OK have some questions.

I've looked at the schematic and it looks like there's a pair or relays - one for mute, one for channel select. Whats the socket look like on the end of the vintage pedal look like? I'm guessing it's a TRS. This means that the footswitch internally is either latched fully open or fully closed inside for the mute function (presuming that the one switch vintage switch only controls the channel). If you are using a TS jack to jack, you are going to get unwanted behaviour as the footswitch will control the mute and channel switch at the same time, as one switch.

OR if the channel switch mute logic box on the schematic is internal (and the footswitch is just one channel) - it could be that there is a voltage thing going on - in which case the length of cable and pedal could become significant.

So I guess I could with some clarification on all the connector types with the supplied footswitch and cable...

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Thanks for the input!

I'm at my dorm right now, trying to survive my exams. Once that's over I will try to do the following: Take some decent pictures so everything is clear for you guys, and use a multimeter to try and find any mistakes or problems. 

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