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NBD Rickenbacker 4003 Jetglo (well, new to me...)


BrunoBass

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, three gigs and several rehearsals later and I’m very much enjoying my 4003, I’m glad to say. I’ve read so many tales of people getting them, not really gelling with them and moving them on, usually quite quickly. Having wanted one for so long it would’ve been very disappointing if I’d found myself in the same boat. 

It’s obviously very different to anything else I’ve played but I’m accustoming to it, and have come to the conclusion that if you want to play a Rick you’ve just got to embrace the quirkiness, at least that’s how I see it.

I play in an alt rock covers band. I’m playing my usual EB Super Slinky’s through my Genz Benz rig with the gain pushed almost to breaking point, so when I dig in it really crunches up. That’s the tone I’ve always used in this band, and it always worked well with my Jazz basses. It works equally well with the Rick but the mids really poke through and have more punch. I’ve found that the bridge pickup at 100% volume / tone at 60%,  and front pickup at 50% volume / 100% tone gives me what I’m looking for (everything flat on the amp). 

Weight wise it’s fine, I’ve got a wide padded strap which distributes weight well and is comfortable. 

The bridge... well, the set up is great, intonation is perfect and tuning is very stable, so do I need to change it? Well maybe, as the mute screws get in the way. I’m considering unscrewing and removing the screws, as I won’t use the mutes and don’t mind them being disabled. Do any of the experienced Rick players amongst you know if it’s safe to just remove the screws? Will it destabilise anything?

Edited by BrunoBass
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2 hours ago, BrunoBass said:

Well, three gigs and several rehearsals later and I’m very much enjoying my 4003, I’m glad to say. I’ve read so many tales of people getting them, not really gelling with them and moving them on, usually quite quickly. Having wanted one for so long it would’ve been very disappointing if I’d found myself in the same boat. 

It’s obviously very different to anything else I’ve played but I’m accustoming to it, and have come to the conclusion that if you want to play a Rick you’ve just got to embrace the quirkiness, at least that’s how I see it.

I play in an alt rock covers band. I’m playing my usual EB Super Slinky’s through my Genz Benz rig with the gain pushed almost to breaking point, so when I dig in it really crunches up. That’s the tone I’ve always used in this band, and it always worked well with my Jazz basses. It works equally well with the Rick but the mids really poke through and have more punch. I’ve found that the bridge pickup at 100% volume / tone at 60%,  and front pickup at 50% volume / 100% tone gives me what I’m looking for (everything flat on the amp). 

Weight wise it’s fine, I’ve got a wide padded strap which distributes weight well and is comfortable. 

The bridge... well, the set up is great, intonation is perfect and tuning is very stable, so do I need to change it? Well maybe, as the mute screws get in the way. I’m considering unscrewing and removing the screws, as I won’t use the mutes and don’t mind them being disabled. Do any of the experienced Rick players amongst you know if it’s safe to just remove the screws? Will it destabilise anything?

You should remove the mute too (or it'll be flopping 'round loose inside), which means taking off the tailpiece, which means de-stringing (well, de-tuning and taking them off the tuner posts, you don't have to pull them out of the tailpiece).

Also, the earth wire is soldered to the base of the mute assembly, so you have to shift it.

When putting the tailpiece back on, tighten the tailwards 2 screws first and don't over-tighten the 3 screws in the bridge well, or you can cause tail-lift.

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For a quick fix - I found some rubber grommet thingys that fit over the mute adjusters.

Works for me, because I often use the top adjuster as a palm rest (and for some styles I hook my little finger around the bottom one), and the knurled bare metal was making my hand sore.

 

WP_20190619_18_52_01_Pro.jpg

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On 08/06/2019 at 22:04, Ricky 4000 said:

Aw mate, it sounds woody and dead!

(and its very tricky to get the PUP height just right for fairly even output across the 4 strings).

That's probably mainly due to the ancient set of flats I have on there - and that's only because the frets are nearly worn out from years of using rounds... the SD used to sound OK...

It needs a good overhaul really (frets, maybe a genuine PUP, and I've lost the original PUP cover... and the Grovers on there aren't the right ones either).

WP_20190127_20_13_44_Pro.thumb.jpg.15e625857bed4e77514a062587a91d15.jpg

Or, I buy a bunch of Retrovibe bits to go on there from Fleabay! 😃

(btw, what's the Bartolini 6RC PUP like? Or is it better to stick to SD or OEM? 🙂)

(Sorry for the thread sidetrack - OP).

They look like GroverTitans. Geddy put them on most of his Rics to replace the wavy Grovers.

I had a ‘73 4000 that was the most aggressive sounding bass out of the thousands of basses I’ve played. Shouldn’t have sold it. Great bass.

One of my 4001CSs had an SD in the bridge position. I hated it (YMMV) and got rid asap, replacing it with the correct reissue horseshoe. If I were you I’d replace that with a Classic Amplification treble pickup, or a genuine Ric one.

Edited by 4000
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1 hour ago, prowla said:

You should remove the mute too (or it'll be flopping 'round loose inside), which means taking off the tailpiece, which means de-stringing (well, de-tuning and taking them off the tuner posts, you don't have to pull them out of the tailpiece).

Also, the earth wire is soldered to the base of the mute assembly, so you have to shift it.

When putting the tailpiece back on, tighten the tailwards 2 screws first and don't over-tighten the 3 screws in the bridge well, or you can cause tail-lift.

I assume the earth would need to be re-attached to somewhere on the bridge? 🙂

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1 hour ago, prowla said:

You should remove the mute too (or it'll be flopping 'round loose inside), which means taking off the tailpiece, which means de-stringing (well, de-tuning and taking them off the tuner posts, you don't have to pull them out of the tailpiece).

Also, the earth wire is soldered to the base of the mute assembly, so you have to shift it.

When putting the tailpiece back on, tighten the tailwards 2 screws first and don't over-tighten the 3 screws in the bridge well, or you can cause tail-lift.

Thanks for the info. I think I might leave them where they are...

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16 minutes ago, Ricky 4000 said:

For a quick fix - I found some rubber grommet thingys that fit over the mute adjusters.

Works for me, because I often use the top adjuster as a palm rest (and for some styles I hook my little finger around the bottom one), and the knurled bare metal was making my hand sore.

 

WP_20190619_18_52_01_Pro.jpg

Good fix. I might do what Rick Parfitt did,  and borrow a tyre from my boys Lego box.

Thanks.

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23 minutes ago, Ricky 4000 said:

For a quick fix - I found some rubber grommet thingys that fit over the mute adjusters.

Works for me, because I often use the top adjuster as a palm rest (and for some styles I hook my little finger around the bottom one), and the knurled bare metal was making my hand sore.

 

WP_20190619_18_52_01_Pro.jpg

I removed mine, but this a much nicer and simpler fix. 👏👏👏

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18 minutes ago, 4000 said:

They look like GroverTitans. Geddy put them on most of his Rics to replace the wavy Grovers.

I had a ‘73 4000 that was the most aggressive sounding bass out of the thousands of basses I’ve played. Shouldn’t have sold it. Great bass.

One of my 4001CSs had an SD in the bridge position. I hated it (YMMV) and got rid asap, replacing it with the correct reissue horseshoe. If I were you I’d replace that with a Classic Amplification treble pickup, or a genuine Ric one.

Thanks mate, That's interesting about Geddy and the Grovers. Maybe I don't need to worry about changing them (they stay in tune and don't rattle, so what's not to like!?).

You're probably right about the SD pickup, it is a bit mild... it's never had that over-driven sound of the real thing (and it was in there when I bought the bass 2nd hand - and that was nearly 30 years ago!).

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1 hour ago, Ricky 4000 said:

Thanks mate, That's interesting about Geddy and the Grovers. Maybe I don't need to worry about changing them (they stay in tune and don't rattle, so what's not to like!?).

You're probably right about the SD pickup, it is a bit mild... it's never had that over-driven sound of the real thing (and it was in there when I bought the bass 2nd hand - and that was nearly 30 years ago!).

I found it really bland-sounding, with none of the grind of the original. Obviously others may have had different experiences. The reissue horseshoe sounded miles better. I did once play  a ‘73 that had an SD in that was really, really thick, but again had no bite; I assume that was wired differently. 

Re the Grovers, I think the main issue is that all 4 look like they’re for the same side, hence why 2 are upside down. You can pick Titans up relatively cheaply, unlike the Wavy Grovers. In fact a set of Titans will set you back less than a single Wavy G. And the Wavy Gs can fall apart, although they are fixable.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 09/06/2019 at 08:37, prowla said:

There's always a tiny bit.

Incidentally, if you are tempted to tighten the screws, don't over-tighten the 3 under the bridge piece, as you are pulling the centre of the assemble into the well and can make it worse...

After tonight’s gig, when wiping the bass down I noticed the aforementioned tail lift. I’ve had the bass a few weeks now, and this is the first time I’ve noticed it. I changed the strings the day I got it, and noticed no lift then, but with no strings on (and therefore no tension) I wouldn’t have done. 

It looks like the back of the bridge has lifted maybe 0.7/0.8mm ( I could easily get a 0.5mm pick in there). The gap is the same across the back of the bridge, not just on one side, and I’m using my favourite Super Slinky 100s at standard EADG pitch.

I’ve seen bridge lift mentioned a fair bit so it appears to be a common Rick issue. Is it anything to be concerned about?

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It's apparently been prevented on newer basses, a change in material stops the lift. 

I personally wouldn't worry about it. Loads of the older basses have it, and they're all still going strong. It's only an issue when it interferes with the set-up. Happened to me with a '74, so it was changed. 

All the other vintage models that passed through my hands had the original, if slightly lifting, bridges. 

I'm not a fan of the Hipshot replacement.....stick as your are! 

Edited by spongebob
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51 minutes ago, spongebob said:

It's apparently been prevented on newer basses, a change in material stops the lift. 

I personally wouldn't worry about it. Loads of the older basses have it, and they're all still going strong. It's only an issue when it interferes with the set-up. Happened to me with a '74, so it was changed. 

All the other vintage models that passed through my hands had the original, if slightly lifting, bridges. 

I'm not a fan of the Hipshot replacement.....stick as your are! 

Thanks. It’s not having any negative effect on the set up. 

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