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First ever build


Rexel Matador
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1 hour ago, Pea Turgh said:

I love the way the bridge saddles appear to be floating in this image!  Nice contrast.

What is the scratch plate made from?

It's birch plywood - not exactly functional as a "scratchplate" but it looks nice. It wasn't originally going to have one at all, but my pickup cavity wasn't really up to presentation standard.

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Thanks!

By the way, if anyone knows, is it significant that the saddles ended up in that position after intonating?

Usually they tend to be further forward the thinner the string. Is it due to something I’ve done wrong or is it just something that happens sometimes?

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3 hours ago, Rexel Matador said:

Thanks!

By the way, if anyone knows, is it significant that the saddles ended up in that position after intonating?

Usually they tend to be further forward the thinner the string. Is it due to something I’ve done wrong or is it just something that happens sometimes?

Just something that happens sometimes.  

When you fret strings at the dusty end , you are basically bending them to the equivalent of the action height.  Think what the pitch of a bass string does if you bend it 2 or 3 mm

So all the intonation drop back distance of each of the saddles from scale length is doing, is compensating for them sharpening as you fret down.  

The amount each string sharpens depends on the action height, the string tension, string material and no doubt other stuff.  Usually, the G sharpens the least and so the saddle usually ends up not much more than a mm past the scale length.  The thicker strings usually sharpen more so tend to have to drop the saddles back more.  But if, eg, you have a particularly high tension G and a low tension D, then that may end up the other way round.  So it just depends.

Just looked at the Nanyo save I've just finished for @TheGreek - and that's just like that... the D is forward from the G and the E is forward from the A

_MG_8908.thumb.JPG.2b718f7a77399d1ca6eabbc61cebc1b5.JPG 

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22 hours ago, Rexel Matador said:

Thanks! I'll take some more pics soon.

Just volume. Decided to keep it simple for the first one. I never use the tone control on stage and I like the way it looks. Plus less soldering!

I like that minimalist approach.  It's not like you can't use pedals or tone shaping on your amp is it?

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1 minute ago, SpondonBassed said:

Is it a two bolt neck?

No, there’s a third one out of frame and also another one hidden under the scratchplate going the other way. Just an experiment - probably overkill but it still sounds good.

I saw a framus guitar in a studio that appeared to have only 2 bolts but when I googled it I saw that they have hidden ones inside. Thought is was a cool idea so I stole it!

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14 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

I like that minimalist approach.  It's not like you can't use pedals or tone shaping on your amp is it?

Exactly. I’m always using random amps/di at gigs so I use a pre amp pedal to get a half decent tone. Tone knob would be largely redundant for me.

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1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Just something that happens sometimes.  

When you fret strings at the dusty end , you are basically bending them to the equivalent of the action height.  Think what the pitch of a bass string does if you bend it 2 or 3 mm

So all the intonation drop back distance of each of the saddles from scale length is doing, is compensating for them sharpening as you fret down.  

The amount each string sharpens depends on the action height, the string tension, string material and no doubt other stuff.  Usually, the G sharpens the least and so the saddle usually ends up not much more than a mm past the scale length.  The thicker strings usually sharpen more so tend to have to drop the saddles back more.  But if, eg, you have a particularly high tension G and a low tension D, then that may end up the other way round.  So it just depends.

Just looked at the Nanyo save I've just finished for @TheGreek - and that's just like that... the D is forward from the G and the E is forward from the A

_MG_8908.thumb.JPG.2b718f7a77399d1ca6eabbc61cebc1b5.JPG 

Thanks for that. I thought that was probably the case, but you put my mind at rest 👍

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12 minutes ago, Rexel Matador said:

No, there’s a third one out of frame and also another one hidden under the scratchplate going the other way. Just an experiment - probably overkill but it still sounds good.

I'm all for a good experiment.  If you've cut a snug fitting pocket for the neck, I'd say you should have no problems with three or even two bolts (with threaded inserts).

Cool.

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