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Active/Passive switch?


Toadonroll
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I'm always lending my amp out at gigs and kindly ask users that the active/passive switch is observed. I was not so diligent myself the other night and realised halfway through a gig I was playing my active bass with the amp in passive mode.

Is there any danger that my amp could break if I play an active bass when the amp is in passive mode and visa versa?

Why can't I just have 2 inputs (active and passive) instead of a bloody switch, which no one ever notices? :)

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It shouldn't matter, as long as you're not overdriving the preamp too hard it'll be fine. Use your ears :)

I always plug my active (18V) Status into the passive i/p on my Trace, always have and always will, coz there's enough headroom. On an Eden Nemesis head I had for a short while I had to use the active pad or it would overload the preamp too much. Each amp is different, so just use your ers :huh:

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And I generally find that most active basses work fine in the passive input.

From an engineering perspective it doesn't make sense to make an active bass with tons of gain in the preamp because it just means you're asking a relatively noisy high distortion battery powered circuit to do what a circuit within the amp could do much better. Unfortunately from a marketing perspective an inexperienced bassist will always prefer the tone of the loudest instrument so if you make your preamp output louder you'll sell more basses. Shame...

Alex

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[quote name='bass_ferret' post='358653' date='Dec 19 2008, 11:26 AM']Dont assume that active basses are always hotter than passive basses either. Some passive basses can have really hot pups and outputs. Some active basses dont have super hot outputs either just the ability to drive long leads or sometimes a balanced output. Its always best to use your ears.[/quote]
Indoodly. My cheap Vester J copy had a hotter output than my old Groove 5 and pretty much matches my Retroactive; my Groove fretless in passive mode has the hottest output EVER. Honest :)

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