Prejazzion Bass

[Slappindabass]

So I received some cash for my Birthday and decided I would buy myself an nice ash p bass body but with  jazz routings. I looked thenm up and for a one piece it was going to cost £230.00.

A lot of money but if thats what they are. So I contacted the firm to see if i could see a picture of the blank they would use ....they wouldnt do that until I had paid. So I declined as I have seen some lovely ash and some awful looking ash.

 

A little dissapointed I decided to see if I could build one myself for similar money.

 

So I purchased off of sphock a Bandsaw, pillar drill, router.

£95.00 total

Tempate kit

£55.00 

 

Bit of ash

38.00 total

Router bit

22.00

 

I have no woodworking skill at all...what i do have in abundance is ...stupidity that this is going to be any good....who knows!

If the body turns out ok I am goi g to have a go at a neck.

 

[gjones]

Remember to count your fingers before cutting out the body and afterwards as well.

If there's a discrepancy, call 999 right away. 😃

[Slappindabass]

🖕one

 

🤣🤣🤣

[paul_5]

Measure twice, cut once.

[durhamboy]

If you really are new to these tools, get some scrap wood and practice to get the feel of what the tools will do. If you haven't any clamps, invest in a few, you'll certainly need them when using tools like routers.

Take your time and as gjones mentioned watch your fingers.

[Christine]

Wow, brave lad and that's just stacking that lot next to the VW

Tips, get a good quality bandsaw blade, 3 or 4 TPI Hakansson, it will give you a better cut so you can gut closer to the line which means less routing, a big plus. Practice routing first and remember to go the right direction, going the wrong way can and frequently is disastrous for wood, router and body

[Slappindabass]

24 minutes ago, Christine said:

Wow, brave lad and that's just stacking that lot next to the VW

Tips, get a good quality bandsaw blade, 3 or 4 TPI Hakansson, it will give you a better cut so you can gut closer to the line which means less routing, a big plus. Practice routing first and remember to go the right direction, going the wrong way can and frequently is disastrous for wood, router and body

Thanks. I intend using a table for the router trim around the body which i guess means I need to run the wood round in the opposite direction as the router is upside down. Re the bandsaw blade. Would love to change it but am worried about how hard it will be. Its running nice

at the moment and wouldnt want to mess that up but would like to start wirh a nice fresh blade. I wii do a search and see if thete is a guide.

[bertbass]

Band saw blades are easy to change.  Here's one of many videos on how to do it.

 

[Christine]

3 hours ago, Slappindabass said:

Thanks. I intend using a table for the router trim around the body which i guess means I need to run the wood round in the opposite direction as the router is upside down. Re the bandsaw blade. Would love to change it but am worried about how hard it will be. Its running nice

at the moment and wouldnt want to mess that up but would like to start wirh a nice fresh blade. I wii do a search and see if thete is a guide.

In a router table the wood moves across the front of the cutter from right to left, so from above clockwise. the cutter cuts into the wood not out of it, the shallower the cut the easier it will be, if you end up with a lot of wood to remove you'll need to take shallower cuts, now that can be dangerous as the wood will be feeding into the cutter unsupported and liable to grab and be thrown across the room into your shiny van. You can make this safer by fixing a 6mm pin about 6mm away from the cutter and use that as a rest to support the wood as you feed it in, makes it a doddle. Then you can easily control the depth of cut moving in wards on each pass until finally you're resting on the cutter bearing for the final cut

[Slappindabass]

	82.1/2" (2095mm) x 1/4" x .025" Hakansson Silco	91	82
	Tooth Pitch: 4 tpi
(1)	82.1/2" (2095mm) x 1/2" x .025" Hakansson Silco	£9.15	£9.15
	Tooth Pitch: 3 tpi   Just ordered these.

[Christine]

You'll not regret it, they are fantastic blades, streets ahead of anything else

[Slappindabass]

The blades arrived so I thought I would have a go at changing it. I think I got there in the end. It just so happened a bit of cheap(has imperfections) black Limba turned up as well. So thought why not!😁👍

 

This is my test bed. Everytging I do will be done on this before I touch my Ash body. Everyone said get close to the lines. I think I have achieved that. Maybe a tad too close in places.

 

But .....it still lools like a guitar, I still have my fingers so win win.

 

 

[Slappindabass]

Ps Christine the Blades are great. Thanks cut that with a 6mm one.

[Christine]

I used to cut 10" x 1/8 veneers in Rosewood, Satinwood and Macassar Ebony with a 1/2" 3TPI Hakansson blade, can't say more than that about them

[Slappindabass]

Can someone explain how this is possible?!?!?

As younlook at it I will be feeding from right to left.

 

 

[Jimothey]

Your arrows are going the wrong way you never go with the direction of the cutter you always go against it, are you using a template to trim the body or are you trying to do it freehand?

I don’t understand what you mean by the uphill/downhill part? 

[Slappindabass]

Its in a table. I dont understand the uphill down hill part either but, apparently if you start at the green stop at the red it reduces tear out. Feeding right to left would be against the rotation so its correct in that. The arrows are not for feeding direction. Just wbere to start and stop.

Edited August 2, 2019 by Slappindabass

[Christine]

The wood will move across the cutter as is in a from the right to the left, so the cutter advances through the wood in the direction of the arrows. If the wood moves in the direction of the arrows it will become airborne faster than you could ever know.

Uphill, downhill is purely cutting with or against the grain direction so downhill (with the grain) you'll get a smoother cut than uphill (against the grain) so uphill you need shallower cuts

Along with @Jimothey you are using a template not freehand?

[Slappindabass]

To be fair how close i am with the bandsaw i think it is going to be ok. Yes I shall be using a template. Also purchased a 4 flute bit today which are quite well regarded.

[Slappindabass]

So as i suspected it is not entirely possible to follow that map.

[Jimothey]

5 minutes ago, Slappindabass said:

To be fair how close i am with the bandsaw i think it is going to be ok. Yes I shall be using a template. Also purchased a 4 flute bit today which are quite well regarded.

If your using a template as @Christine said on a previous thread use a guide pin to control the amount you are removing in one pass if it’s more than about 3mm if it’s less than that you could probably remove it in one pass but don’t try and do it too quickly as you run the risk of tear out but don’t do it too slowly or you run the risk of burning the wood which can be hard to sand off??

Whats the length of your cutter is it less than the depth of the body if so you will have to raise the cutter once you’ve done the first pass then go round it again then raise it again etc till your above the top of your body??

[Christine]

15 minutes ago, Slappindabass said:

Also purchased a 4 flute bit today which are quite well regarded.

as that one of the Radian tools cutters? I have one and I think it's the best cutter I've owned for template following

[Slappindabass]

 

 

It is👍

Edited August 2, 2019 by Slappindabass

[Slappindabass]

36 minutes ago, Christine said:

as that one of the Radian tools cutters? I have one and I think it's the best cutter I've owned for template following

It is.👍😁

[Slappindabass]

Double post!