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Posted
Just now, RichardH said:

Sounds like my build could be a good guinea pig for this, Stevie... 

Could well be, Richard. Chienmortbb called it the Mega Rig of Doom - and he wasn't wrong.😀

Posted
8 minutes ago, stevie said:

@RichardH, how did you cut the port hole?

Roughed out with jigsaw, then spindle sanded to the correct diameter. This just shows what gear is needed to do a good job - it makes the flatpacks a no brainer!!!

  • Like 2
Posted

I happen to have a hole saw that cuts a perfect hole for the port. However, I built the first prototype cabs from panels cut at the wood merchant's and I know how long it took to assemble them - bl**dy ages. The flatpacks make it so easy.

  • Like 1
Posted

One thing that may or may not be worth taking off to a separate thread until sorted.

The "sub" cab will need to be set upside down so the two 12" drivers are as close as possible. This makes the handle positioning a bit interesting. I had thought to just build the cab as designed with the handle on top, but add feet to that top surface so it could be plonked down upside down. A bit of a bodge maybe, but I wasn't sure if having a handle impinging on the wadding down by the 12" driver was a bad idea, so thought it best to keep things as standard... 

Posted
1 hour ago, RichardH said:

One thing that may or may not be worth taking off to a separate thread until sorted.

The "sub" cab will need to be set upside down so the two 12" drivers are as close as possible. This makes the handle positioning a bit interesting. I had thought to just build the cab as designed with the handle on top, but add feet to that top surface so it could be plonked down upside down. A bit of a bodge maybe, but I wasn't sure if having a handle impinging on the wadding down by the 12" driver was a bad idea, so thought it best to keep things as standard... 

If you just flip the baffle upside down (and back to front) does the handle get in the way of it? 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, RichardH said:

Bit more progress on the cab build....

Rough cut for the baffle holes

 RHC1.thumb.jpg.30730474a800171c6b1ad2abe17dd78c.jpg

Making the port hole the right size...

RHC2.thumb.jpg.9d239da375d5436736b9b402c0519dcf.jpg

...yup, it fits

RHC3.thumb.jpg.199565b0a01cdab87f6d59079661dc26.jpg

One baffle done... 

RHC6.thumb.jpg.2dfe50b2f7593dfa9ab5d7940a00ad69.jpg

...which is then used as the template for finishing the second.

RHC8.thumb.jpg.92da524ffe4cb5be1091b3f33769dc01.jpg

...and there we go

RHC12.thumb.jpg.bcc9f0a09bb97faeaa871087a9836e50.jpg

 

I am still intending to run the second one without tweeter, but since I have two horns I thought I might as well have the baffle cut for them, and then seal the horn instead of fitting the compression driver. If I then want to run them as separate cabs or for keys or something, it will "simply" be a matter of another driver and crossover.

I bought the horns ages ago (as well as the two drivers) - I suspect if I'd held fire and read the comments from people who have them up and running, I might have just gone for one cab, but hey ho!

 

RHC8.jpg

There’s the new hifi speakers sorted!  No more packing your gig stuff away during the week.

  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, LukeFRC said:

If you just flip the baffle upside down (and back to front) does the handle get in the way of it? 

I would expect there to sufficient clearance (but I haven't checked specifically and will do later). It should just be a matter of swapping the top and bottom panels.

Posted

I'm sure there will be clearance, I wasn't sure if it would have an effect on the wadding. Sounds like that shouldn't be an issue though - thanks for the reassurance!

Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, stevie said:

I would expect there to sufficient clearance (but I haven't checked specifically and will do later). It should just be a matter of swapping the top and bottom panels.

Don't worry Stevie, we can check ourselves. So long as there's no design issues with having the handle at the bottom then we can give it a go. Obviously the relevant damping will be fitted to the panels which ever way they go up.

Edited by RichardH
clarity
Posted

Looks ace, but I’d address the fabric ripples.  Maybe try removing the grill and putting a hot hair dryer to it?  Failing that pull the staples out and start again.   Sorry for the negativity- it really is an ace looking cab! 

Posted
28 minutes ago, Pea Turgh said:

Looks ace, but I’d address the fabric ripples.  Maybe try removing the grill and putting a hot hair dryer to it?  Failing that pull the staples out and start again.   Sorry for the negativity- it really is an ace looking cab! 

Hot hair drier works if it is a plastic based "cloth" - not sure what that stuff's made of, so safest to test on an offcut first! And be warned... although a hot air gun can also be used, be very careful not to get too close with it - don't ask me how I know....

Posted

A bit more progress on the evil twins...

Cutting the ports to length - overkill with the saw? Nah.....

SAM_5634.thumb.jpg.a3262c2b77377ea237f5bcd149df5f28.jpg

 

We're using some odd bits of hardware that Mike still had left over, so these will have a rectangular handle 

SAM_5644.thumb.jpg.6edf0fa0ca8fa5ca62a924770805a03a.jpg

 

...and a metal connector dish

SAM_5641.thumb.jpg.60132d1b44a9989796087ee9deb21af3.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, Pea Turgh said:

Looks ace, but I’d address the fabric ripples.  Maybe try removing the grill and putting a hot hair dryer to it?  Failing that pull the staples out and start again.   Sorry for the negativity- it really is an ace looking cab! 

Yeah - it’s annoying stuff to work with. Going to leave it a few days and see what it does

  • Like 2
Posted
4 hours ago, RichardH said:

A bit more progress on the evil twins...

Cutting the ports to length - overkill with the saw? Nah.....

SAM_5634.thumb.jpg.a3262c2b77377ea237f5bcd149df5f28.jpg

Not overkill. I tried using a chop saw at first and it splintered. In the end, I used a handsaw, but your solution is much better.

Posted
1 hour ago, stevie said:

Not overkill. I tried using a chop saw at first and it splintered. In the end, I used a handsaw, but your solution is much better.

I've mentioned it before I'm sure, but I've found a blunt handsaw (panel saw) to be much better at cutting drainpipe etc than a lovely sharp one. So for those without bandsaws, that's the way to go!

Posted
1 minute ago, RichardH said:

I've mentioned it before I'm sure, but I've found a blunt handsaw (panel saw) to be much better at cutting drainpipe etc than a lovely sharp one. So for those without bandsaws, that's the way to go!

I will second that.

Posted
On 22/11/2019 at 08:53, RichardH said:

I'm sure there will be clearance, I wasn't sure if it would have an effect on the wadding. Sounds like that shouldn't be an issue though - thanks for the reassurance!

Doesn't all the spare sound drop to the bottom anyway, so the wadding at that end will catch it?

  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, tauzero said:

Doesn't all the spare sound drop to the bottom anyway, so the wadding at that end will catch it?

True, the spare sound drops to the bottom, but that’s why most lightweight cabs have ports there - to let all the heavy notes out.  That’s why port size is so critical - if you let too much sound out, the cab simply floats away.

At least, that’s my understanding of it all.

  • Haha 2

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