Stevie’s 12” FRFR Cab Build Thread (Basschat Cab v3)

[stewblack]

1 hour ago, funkle said:

@stewblack This site will not let me post video. But I will do as many photos as I can of the process. Which bits are you interested in?

texturing the final tuffcab layer

[funkle]

I’ll document the final texture layers as best as I can. 

I sanded off the front edges and repainted with paint brush a few times. Much better. 

This stuff is very tough to sand though! I’m convinced of its durability.

Edited September 4, 2019 by funkle

[Chienmortbb]

16 minutes ago, funkle said:

I’ll document the final texture layers as best as I can. 

I sanded off the front edges and repainted with paint brush a few times. Much better. 

This stuff is very tough to sand though! I’m convinced of its durability.

Having gigged my cab for two years I can confirm it is durable. 

[tauzero]

9 hours ago, funkle said:

I’ll try. Problem is when you’re doing it, you’re kind of messy and can be using both hands...lol. I’ll try

You could try asking a few amateur porn producers how they manage, as they face a similar challenge.

[stewblack]

7 hours ago, tauzero said:

You could try asking a few amateur porn producers how they manage, as they face a similar challenge.

Lends a whole new meaning to 'selfie stick' 

[funkle]

Lol. 

Well, I did 3 layers of the base coat and then tried 2 texture layers on the bottom panel, in case I messed it up. 

The faux leather effect is there but it is subtle and only obviously visible from some angles; it’s not as pronounced as you might hope from the photos done with Duratex. I think it’s worthwhile, but I am not as impressed as I hoped to be. 

I did experiment on scraps using this technique with much thicker layers of paint, and the effect was more pronounced...but the thicker paint was sometimes very visible and a bit ugly. Likely I need more refinement of technique.

Process photos, for what they are worth:

This is the plastic drop sheet.

Scrunch it up tightly. 

It should look properly wrinkly.

Paint on the layer of paint. 

Stick on the plastic. I left it for a minute or two after pressing everywhere to make good contact.

Lift it off. 

Then do it all a second time.

It’s really nice in the second photo. But much more subtle when dried. Still, I’ll persist. I can always sand it off...lol

[stewblack]

Thank you so much. I'd have had no idea without these shots 

[funkle]

Glad to help. Tuffcab don’t give a lot of instructions, although they have a helpful blog post about using their product. 

https://blog.bluearan.co.uk/tuff-cab-loudspeaker-paint/

 

[funkle]

Ok. Some feedback, now that I’ve nearly finished painting and what is on is dry. (Still need to texture the front edges of the cab around baffle later today).

I did 3 base layers and 2 texture layers, and potentially it might benefit from another texture layer. However too many layers make the finish shinier, so I’m stopping here. Plus I want to wire everything up and play, dammit, lol.

In retrospect probably only 1 base layer needed. I probably over-egged it in my enthusiasm/desire for safety of finish. Then I could have layered more texture layers on top.

Nonetheless, I have a very nice (if subtle) faux leather effect, and now that it’s on all surfaces, I really like how it looks. 

The photographs are not as clear as I want, but it is tricky to photograph. 

I tried the honeycomb roller from Tuffcab but it didn’t want to turn/roll correctly on my paint roller handle. It kept sticking/stopping. Weird. So I abandoned that. 

Now, I want to finish this cab this weekend. 

[stewblack]

I'm excited and I don't even get to hear it

[funkle]

Almost there.

I felt the foam on the horn was a bit thick for a nice level fit, so I replaced it with foam for the grille (which is narrower and thinner). The foam on the handle works out fine with the pressure from bolts/T-nuts, but I did consider replacing it as well.

Finished texturing the edges, so fitted the handle, feet, corners, and label to the cab. 

The textured finish is showing better in these photos as well. 

Need to do a test wiring up and get Stevie to check it. 

Current weight of unloaded cab: 19 lbs. I think we’re on track for a cab at or just under 30 lbs. Sweet. 

Edited September 7, 2019 by funkle

[stewblack]

That finish looks brilliant, well done for persevering. Also love the label. It's the touches like this that really finish the job nicely. 

[stewblack]

Stevie, are you filling out the details on the labels? We need not to end up with ten 001 cabs 😂

[3below]

Looking really good, makes me want to build some cabinets, reduce my car loading :).  On previous builds I got a 'leathercloth' / Vinyl finish look by dabbing the Tuffcab with a washing up sponge.  Pour / brush a reasonable amount onto the cabinet then dab away.

[stevie]

1 hour ago, stewblack said:

Stevie, are you filling out the details on the labels? We need not to end up with ten 001 cabs 😂

I am indeed. And there will only be one serial no. 001 - the one you are watching being built right here.🙂

[stewblack]

15 minutes ago, stevie said:

I am indeed. And there will only be one serial no. 001 - the one you are watching being built right here.🙂

Yep, saw that on funkles label and it got me thinking . 

So is yours 000?

[stevie]

Mine's 007.🤩

[stevie]

2 hours ago, 3below said:

Looking really good, makes me want to build some cabinets, reduce my car loading :).  On previous builds I got a 'leathercloth' / Vinyl finish look by dabbing the Tuffcab with a washing up sponge.  Pour / brush a reasonable amount onto the cabinet then dab away.

I think that's basically what the foam roller does in fact. It just speeds the job up and makes it easier to achieve a consistent finish.

[funkle]

Well, all had been going swimmingly...now I’m stuck. 

However, first, the good. 

Speakons went in nicely.

Worked out how to wire everything up with Stevie. 

Hooked the wires up to the crossover and installed it. 

Hooked up the Speakon connectors. 

Hooked up the horn, then the woofer. 

Looking great...but then I had a T-nut problem. And I’m stuck for a bit, though I think I have a solution. 

I was screwing a bolt into one of the woofer screw holes, and then felt something give in the baffle - felt like the T-nut had unseated/loosened. A quick feel behind by reaching in through the horn hole confirmed that. 

Problem is, in trying to unscrew the bolt from the T-nut, I determined that the bolt is clearly stuck into the T-nut and will not loosen. Furthermore the T-nut has now stripped out the hole it was in on the rear of the baffle and I can’t get it to grip back in. 

(So now I have one bolt at the right side of the photo that I can’t screw in any further or screw out.)

I suspect I know why manufacturers might avoid T-nuts now...

I have been thinking on solutions, and I have only one so far: try to drill into the head of the bolt and see if I can remove it. Once removed, I can then consider my options. 

I’m going to take a break from this for a bit and return later on, when I’ve let my frustration ease a bit. 

When I can remove the bolt, I might consider rotating the woofer a little to give me new baffle space to work on and simply using screws to fix it in place; I could simply fill the T-nut holes with wood filler/glue/dowels/etc. 

I’m suddenly out of love with T-nuts, lol. 

Edited September 7, 2019 by funkle

[stevie]

Oh dear, just as you were nearly there!🤨

It looks like you've cross-threaded a T-nut. Drilling out the bolt is absolutely a last resort. What I suggest (and others who have some experience of jammed T-nuts might like to comment) is trying to grip the offending T-nut from the rear with a pair of pliers or, better still, mole grips. It depends how far in the bolt is, but you might be able to lift the driver up enough to get your hand in behind it. If you're lucky, you could even swing the driver out to improve access. Failing that, slide your arm in through the hole for the horn and try to get to the T-nut that way.

You can get a lot of leverage on the bolt with an Allen key. This is ideally a two-person job. One person gripping the T-nut and another person trying to undo the bolt. While you're deciding what to do, put some lubricating oil on the bolt and let it seep into the thread on the T-nut. That should aid removal.

Don't give up now!

[funkle]

I can’t get a grip on it from the rear with pliers, gave that a shot already. 

I don’t know what mole grips are but will find out. Another tool to buy, perhaps. 

I’ll see if I can enlist my wife’s aid. 

I’m not keen on repeating this experience with another T-nut. Also, even if I can get this bolt out, I’m not sure what to do with this particular hole. Another T-nut doesn’t seem like it will work at the moment...rotating the woofer a little and just screwing it in with wood screws seems a lot safer...

Edited September 7, 2019 by funkle

[Phil Starr]

A Mole grip is a name for a self locking plier. Like Hoover for vacuum cleaners. Gripping the T-nut is your priority, an allen key can exert a lot of force, way more than what you needed to displace the T-nut. You need to grip the round bit where the bolt goes in ideally, The pointed spurs that grip the wood will bend with any force. If you have a vice that will work well, you can tighten it slowly and get tons of pressure on the t-nut. Once it is secure you shouldn't have much trouble getting the bolt out, you may have spoiled the threads though.

Just a minute.....

 

[Phil Starr]

OK t-nut in hand.

Do you have a right angled mending plate to hand https://www.screwfix.com/p/corner-braces-zinc-plated-64-x-64-x-16-5mm-10-pack/15790

You should be able to place the t-nut over the corner so that at least two of the pointed spurs grip sideways against the bracket and you can press the flat top of the T down onto the right angle. That should make it stable enough to unscrew the bolt.

 

[funkle]

I just borrowed a mole grip from my father in law. Looks useful; I’ll try it when I get back home. 

I don’t have a right angled plate and I’m finding it hard to follow those written instructions, @Phil Starr, apologies. However they may not be needed anyway, I hope; I’m going to see if I can lever the woofer out enough to allow me to work in the mole grip. 

Anyone have thoughts on what I do with this particular hole afterwards? Assuming success with the bolt.

Edited September 23, 2019 by funkle

[Phil Starr]

Sorry I've just re read your first post, the t-nut is still in the cab. 

I've had this happen a few times, For anyone following this t-nuts always have a tendency to come out like this, even a fleck of paint on the nut or the screw will bind the thread slightly and the temptation is to press down on the Allen key or screwdriver to get more purchase and as soon as you press downwards the nut comes away.

You should be able to re-engage the points of the nut with the wood  by pulling the nut upwards back into the wood. 

try lifting the speaker or remove the horn and push your fingers in to lift it from underneath, it looks like it is close to the horn cutout fortunately. If you can get the nut to grip a little then unscrew the bolt carefully with no downward pressure which will push the t-nut back out. Even if you can only push the nut up a bit it might let you grab the head of the bolt and pull from above but be careful about that speaker cone.

If you get the bolt out then you can remove the speaker. If the threads are undamaged so you can turn the bolt and nut by finger then re fixing the t-nut is simple. Get a big washer and put it on the bolt, thread it though the offending hole and put the t-nut on the bottom, without the speaker anywhere near. Tighten the bolt as tight as you can and it will pull the t-nut hard into the hole and it should be more secure. When you go back to fixing the speaker tighten all the bolts by hand first pulling gently upwards as you go so as not to dislodge the t-nuts. If you want to be doubly sure use the washer and bolt trick to pull all the t-nuts home before having another go with the speaker.

Edited September 7, 2019 by Phil Starr