Sharpening and using a cabinet scraper

[honza992]

I like the idea of using a cabinet scraper.  But for the life of me I just can't get one sharp.  I've looked at a million videos, have what I think is the right sheet metal, and even have one of these:

But can I get it to too lovely wispy shavings?  No, all I get is dust.  Would anyone be able to talk me through, using very very simple words, how you sharpen a cabinet scraper. 

And it would be great to widen the discussion a bit further to see how and when you use it.  And any useful tips etc. 

Thanks!

[Christine]

If you can’t get help before then I’ll be back home tomorrow and will give you a full set of instructions 

[Jimothey]

I think @Christine instructions will probably be a lot more in depth and more comprehensive but my method was to clamp the scraper in a vice so the long edge is to the top then using a metal file give it a few passes to make sure it’s nice and flat and removed any bit of the burr then use a burnisher slightly angled downwards and I found it easier if you hold the handle of the burnisher and the end of the rod using a bit of force run it over the edge about 4/5 times in a downward motion using the length of the burnisher then check that you’ve got a little burr on the underside of the scraper if you haven’t repeat the process till you do

This is the burnisher I used to use 

My method in using it was to hold the scraper with the burr on the bottom edge facing away from you, I held it as if I was trying to snap it in half, use your thumbs to bend the middle of the scraper away from then using just a small part from the centre scrap the piece you want to smooth...........😀

Edited September 1, 2019 by Jimothey

[Christine]

Here you are

The plain cabinet scraper is a vastly under rated tool, properly sharpened and prepared it can remove wood from the most difficult grain imaginable or it can smooth out a freshly sprayed or brushed lacquer in readiness for the next coat with absolute finesse.

Sharpening it is usually a problem, I'm not sure why, it's not really that difficult but it does need a little care to get right but it's not a long or difficult job. You'll need, a sharp engineers file, a set of sharpening stones, I use Japanese water stones 1000 grit (coarse) and a 6000 frit (fine),a vice,  a wooden guide block about 150mm long 75mm high and 40mm thick planed exactly square and a simple burnisher  (a good quality screwdriver will do for this).

The first thing you need to do is file the 2 working edges square so clamp your scraper in the vice alongside the wooden guide block so the top edge of the scraper is a hair above the wood. Now using the wooden block as a guide file the edge of the scraper flat without damaging the guide block unduly. You have now removed the remains of the last sharpening in readiness for the new one.

Now to hone the working edges: on the coarse stone which must be perfectly flat by the way hold the working edge of the scraper against it so the scraper is vertical using your guide block as a guide to keep it exactly square and flat. When the edge shows no more marks left from the file move on to the fine stone. Do the same again, then put the scraper flat on the stone and hone both of the faces. Go back to the guide block and do the edge again, then the sides. What you are aiming for is a perfectly square edge with a near mirror finish all round. Your scraper is now sharp but still useless.

Finally we need to raise the burr that does the work. Put the scraper in the vice so the edge is about 40mm above it. Take your burnisher, hold it horizontally, with firm pressure run it backwards and forwards about 10 times, this will harden the edge. After that continue but one side at a time carry on burnishing but ever so slightly tilt the burnisher down on the side you are working on, bit by bit until you get to about 5 degrees, with luck you should have a good burr, test it with your thumb. If it's there do the same again on the other edge before turning the scraper over and doing the other side. You should have 4 working burrs that will or at least should be capable of producing a near perfect finish.

That's about it really, it does take a couple of goes to learn how hard to press to get your burr how you like it. With time and experience you can skip using the guide block but I wouldn't recommend it for a good while and then only if you sharpen very regularly, it's very hard to keep that edge perfectly square while honing otherwise.

[honza992]

26 minutes ago, Christine said:

Here you are

The plain cabinet scraper is a vastly under rated tool, properly sharpened and prepared it can remove wood from the most difficult grain imaginable or it can smooth out a freshly sprayed or brushed lacquer in readiness for the next coat with absolute finesse.

Sharpening it is usually a problem, I'm not sure why, it's not really that difficult but it does need a little care to get right but it's not a long or difficult job. You'll need, a sharp engineers file, a set of sharpening stones, I use Japanese water stones 1000 grit (coarse) and a 6000 frit (fine),a vice,  a wooden guide block about 150mm long 75mm high and 40mm thick planed exactly square and a simple burnisher  (a good quality screwdriver will do for this).

The first thing you need to do is file the 2 working edges square so clamp your scraper in the vice alongside the wooden guide block so the top edge of the scraper is a hair above the wood. Now using the wooden block as a guide file the edge of the scraper flat without damaging the guide block unduly. You have now removed the remains of the last sharpening in readiness for the new one.

Now to hone the working edges: on the coarse stone which must be perfectly flat by the way hold the working edge of the scraper against it so the scraper is vertical using your guide block as a guide to keep it exactly square and flat. When the edge shows no more marks left from the file move on to the fine stone. Do the same again, then put the scraper flat on the stone and hone both of the faces. Go back to the guide block and do the edge again, then the sides. What you are aiming for is a perfectly square edge with a near mirror finish all round. Your scraper is now sharp but still useless.

Finally we need to raise the burr that does the work. Put the scraper in the vice so the edge is about 40mm above it. Take your burnisher, hold it horizontally, with firm pressure run it backwards and forwards about 10 times, this will harden the edge. After that continue but one side at a time carry on burnishing but ever so slightly tilt the burnisher down on the side you are working on, bit by bit until you get to about 5 degrees, with luck you should have a good burr, test it with your thumb. If it's there do the same again on the other edge before turning the scraper over and doing the other side. You should have 4 working burrs that will or at least should be capable of producing a near perfect finish.

That's about it really, it does take a couple of goes to learn how hard to press to get your burr how you like it. With time and experience you can skip using the guide block but I wouldn't recommend it for a good while and then only if you sharpen very regularly, it's very hard to keep that edge perfectly square while honing otherwise.

Thanks so much Christine, that's brilliant.  I'll have a go.  

[Andyjr1515]

Can't add anything to @Christine 's excellent explanation.  

To make sure the scraper is completely square when honing the edges, I picked this tip up from somewhere - a simple jig.  Just a vertical slot in a piece of wood:

 

It's slightly springy so acts like a dolly peg.  I pop the scraper in and use is as a pair of vertical hands while I run the edge over the diamond stones

 

I probably use scrapers more than any other single tool-type in my workshop.

[honza992]

Thanks all for some really great advice, have a look at these lovely shavings😁