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Woodworking bench build


RichardH
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So we had a cable running to our garage- electrician hooking up power to our outhouse so I ask: can you quote for lights and power in the garage, and if the cable is good we do that too. 
 

so he spends a day installing lights, plugs, breaker box in the garage - then tests the cable to find it’s bust ... 🤦‍♂️ 

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1 hour ago, Pea Turgh said:

Looks good.  How’s the music room coming on?

I'll do another thread on that....

26 minutes ago, Si600 said:

Do the walls white while you can, it makes a huge difference to the reflected light in a room.

I'd thought about doing that - particularly ceiling - even if it's just a quick roll of some masonry paint we have knocking around. 

49 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

So we had a cable running to our garage- electrician hooking up power to our outhouse so I ask: can you quote for lights and power in the garage, and if the cable is good we do that too. 
 

so he spends a day installing lights, plugs, breaker box in the garage - then tests the cable to find it’s bust ... 🤦‍♂️ 

D'oh! I still have to get a cable run to the workshop, at the moment I have an extension lead running over to it from an outdoor socket just so I can run some lights to see what I am doing when on my early morning painting exploits.

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On 02/10/2020 at 10:47, LukeFRC said:

I used the Leland stuff - I wonder if PVA is needed as if anything the seal on the concrete will stop the paint keying into it. From memory the first coat soaked in a wee bit, and the second coat went Ontop 

Missed your post before - yes, I realised that PVA wasn't right for this stuff - particularly as this paint is spirit rather than water based unlike the stuff I used at my old place.

I thinned the first coat with white spirit, and it really sunk into the concrete, so should have keyed in nicely. The second coat went on nicely and gave a decent finish. I used pretty much the whole 5l tin for both coats - floor area around 3.6 x 5.8m

 

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26 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

I ran an armoured cable from the house to my summerhouse for power and I also ran a Ethernet cable from my router to another router in the summerhouse for WiFi, it works great 🙂

Yeah, I need to dig a trench for the cable though..... and it will be around a 40m run. We are supposed to be having a patio put in and I was going to get them to dig the trench when they had the digger here. Though the soil is softer now we have had some rain, so it might be feasible to do it myself.

For WiFi I have got some Tenda MESH hotspots - they are pretty good, and so I will be adding one more into the mix to extend the wifi further. Already works OK in the workshop, and I won't be doing anything that needs major bandwidth so they should do. I may well run some ethernet into the studio building though - "just in case".

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good grief! I've only gone and done it....

IMG_20201018_155454.thumb.jpg.bbbb931d3aa2fcd48cfab6714df59acb.jpg

...Actually put the bench in! 

In fact this is the second build of it - the first time I put it in place the bench was too high, so I took it all out again and reset the height - it's now at just under 36" to the top surface. I've used the worktop offcuts - so I have a joint in the middle which is a bit ugly - I guess I could have tried to clean up the edges of the two meeting surfaces, but I had a feeling they'd not get that much better than they are at present. 

The bench is supported on a 2x3 bearer fixed to the wall - I had the stud positions marked so was able to fix into the studs rather than the 11mm OSB. 3x2 along the front edge as well. Shelf is supported on some 2x1 batten on the wall and 3x2 at the ends, plus also a bearer on the back of the central leg. Again, this had to be jointed as the length of the bench is just shy of 3m. I had thought the front edge of the shelf would need a batten, but it's 18mm OSB, and once it was screwed down into the back and side bearers plus to the back of the central leg, it's really stiff. I may run a piece of 2x1 along the underside to ensure it stays stiff if I feel it's needed, though. Bench surface is fixed from underneath using brackets and swearing.

Apart from the 3x2 and the 2x1, the rest of the bench was made of "free" materials - the OSB was left over from when the shed was built, as were the lumps of 6x2 used on the legs. Worktop was offcuts from the kitchen fitting. 

I decided to turn the worktop upside down as when using the worktop as a temporary bench on a couple of sawhorses, I realised the "proper" surface was way too slippy.

Now all I need is power!

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it's not dissimilar to mine! 

We have an outhouse that was my workshop we are trying to convert to a home office, and then the garage was made watertight and now has my workbench in it. 
There was an old cable going from the outhouse to the garage... "if that cable is good" i asked the sparky "can I get power in the garage too?"

Guess who spent a day rigging up lights and plug sockets in the garage before they tested the cable? 😬😡 Guess who spent the weekend pulling up the drive to dig a trench for a new cable? 

 

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2 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

it's not dissimilar to mine! 

We have an outhouse that was my workshop we are trying to convert to a home office, and then the garage was made watertight and now has my workbench in it. 
There was an old cable going from the outhouse to the garage... "if that cable is good" i asked the sparky "can I get power in the garage too?"

Guess who spent a day rigging up lights and plug sockets in the garage before they tested the cable? 😬😡 Guess who spent the weekend pulling up the drive to dig a trench for a new cable? 

 

Oh dear! We've been waiting for the guy with the digger to be available for blimmin' ages now.... Even if I clipped the cable to fences where I can, I'd still end up having to dig trenches, so for the moment I'm waiting for a digger to come and do it all for me.... especially as the feed for the workshop is coming from the other outbuilding which also needs cable run to it before that has power anyway.

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16 minutes ago, RichardH said:

Oh dear! We've been waiting for the guy with the digger to be available for blimmin' ages now.... Even if I clipped the cable to fences where I can, I'd still end up having to dig trenches, so for the moment I'm waiting for a digger to come and do it all for me.... especially as the feed for the workshop is coming from the other outbuilding which also needs cable run to it before that has power anyway.

Oh that sounds rough. luckily I was told that it could just be a 3cm channel under the paving slabs or if I cut off the edge of the paving slabs it could go down the side. 

How deep does it have to go? It sounds like one of those things that by the guy with a digger gets to you, you could dig it out by hand! Depending on dirt type. Ours is fairly easy to dig. 

Annoyingly I found that the originals cable had failed as it was two bits joined in a metal box full of water under ground! I think we could possibly reuse it but the sparky suggests running a new higher amp one. 

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We're on clay here, and until we had the rain come through over the last couple of weeks, it's been mega dry, so the soil's been like iron. Now things have softened up, I could probably do the "spade in, wiggle around to create slit and repeat" method, but it's near enough 50m, and although it would be across grass in the main, who knows what digging might be done in the future, so probably safest to have it the recommended depth.... they have said they should be able to get here for a day fairly soon, so fingers crossed. 

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1 hour ago, RichardH said:

We're on clay here, and until we had the rain come through over the last couple of weeks, it's been mega dry, so the soil's been like iron. Now things have softened up, I could probably do the "spade in, wiggle around to create slit and repeat" method, but it's near enough 50m, and although it would be across grass in the main, who knows what digging might be done in the future, so probably safest to have it the recommended depth.... they have said they should be able to get here for a day fairly soon, so fingers crossed. 

what is the recommended depth btw? probably applies to me too.
 

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As I understand it, it's not a proper regulation as such, but around 450mm seems to be an accepted depth for general work. However, for gardens where it is less likely to get disturbed by deep digging, then it's not as hard and fast - I've seen "a spade's depth" mentioned. Where it's covered by your paving slabs I suspect the electrician felt it was safe under there as it was unlikely to be accidentally disturbed.

I'll ask the electricians what the deal is when they come along to get it sorted.

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