jebroad Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 After the designs from the 25" scale midget with the carbon neck- I'm creating two new midget basses by the end of this year. Both headless. Possibly fretboard leds. The two current designs are two iterations of body body. Feel free to choose a favourite and let me know why. This information could prove useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 (edited) Spec as it stands- Mahogany through neck Mahogany wings Single piece headless bridge 28" scale 35mm body thickness Single soapbar pickup Edited October 2, 2019 by jebroad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 I spend a lot of time practicing without a strap - suspect that this is the case with many of us. A lower horn would make this more possible without it sliding off the leg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 1 minute ago, TheGreek said: I spend a lot of time practicing without a strap - suspect that this is the case with many of us. A lower horn would make this more possible without it sliding off the leg. That’s definitely a problem with the body shape. The first design of the bass came from when I’d only play on the left knee. That’s where the concept for the lower right concave curve. It was originally meant to sit on the right knee but in a position like to playing left. Ill have a go at adding a horn but trying to keep a similar ‘artistic’ concept Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 More iterations involving @TheGreek 's horn design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hellzero Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Your lower horn should be way more longer and rounder to accommodate sitting playing. This is one of the best design for this purpose (it used to be mine, the best ergonomical bass to date, but the sound was too compressed for me) : And don't put the output jack on the edge, but on the table or, even better, at the back as it's 100% more convenient. Like this from the same luthier : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 (edited) I agree with Hellzero regarding rounding off the lower horn though I wouldn't want to extend the lower horn too much(more contemporary). Edited October 2, 2019 by TheGreek 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 Two sketches, the one on the left has a more reflected body shape on the lower curves. Anyone have any preferences between the two purely on that difference in body shape? P.S. these horns aren't the final design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itu Posted October 9, 2019 Share Posted October 9, 2019 Are those two body tips à la Status at the bridge side for protecting the tuning system? The length of the body in both ends of it is related to the overall balance. As the instrument is certainly light in weight, I don't see the tips so important if the position is functioning well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted October 9, 2019 Share Posted October 9, 2019 I like the left hand side of the right hand design - personally I think the right hand side of both designs need a bit of refining. Having said that, the right hand design reminds me of a woman turning to look over her right shoulder. There's an amazing image of Sofia Loren with that classic "Hour glass" figure - looked, can't find it - which would be a good reference point, that or Seven of Nine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 This shape is much more even in width but I'm not too sure on the upper angle of the horn. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 The lower horn and the bridge end is quite angular then the top horn is curved I would probably try and make it a bit more angular so it ties in with the rest but don’t get me wrong it does look good the way it is.............👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 This is the right hand design but with a refined and reflected right hand side with an extended horn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 This sketch is a little bit very angular. @Jimothey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 Just now, jebroad said: This sketch is a little bit very angular. @Jimothey I like that one!.........😀 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopthebass Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 I like the last angular one best. I find slapping a bit difficult with an extended fingerboard. But what you are showing does look great. Hurry up and start it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 Full size body design 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 What would everyone think of status style wrap around LED markers but on the treble side? Kind of ruins the point of wrap around markers but I dont want a whopping great channel through the bass side of the neck (may compromise stiffness). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 Bare in mind, the bass will be fretless so I'm thinking of having horizontal LED lit markers to indicated the frets where inlays would normally be eg. 3,5,7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 Luminlays on the bass side would be easier - unless you are specifically going to the WOW factor (and there's nothing wrong with that ) Why would channelling the bass side be worse than channelling the treble side? Also, have you played much fretless @jebroad ? I find the dots on the fret position (and yes - still 3,5,7,9 etc) rather than in the middle much easier to use on an unmarked board - and if you need LED's I'm assuming that even if it was a lined board you aren't going to be able to see them in the dark? I like your final full size drawing shape, by the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jebroad Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 This may be far out but I’m toying with the concept of a Viger or Le fay like stainless steel fretboard. Maybe construct a thinner, flat timber fretboard on top of the neck and then 2-3mm of stainless steel on top. Not sure about created a radius with that, however. Possible a radius block with emery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itu Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 I don't think Delta metal is steel. Brass of some kind, maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 On 09/01/2020 at 11:47, jebroad said: This may be far out but I’m toying with the concept of a Viger or Le fay like stainless steel fretboard. Maybe construct a thinner, flat timber fretboard on top of the neck and then 2-3mm of stainless steel on top. Not sure about created a radius with that, however. Possible a radius block with emery? You're going to have a long slog to get a radius on SS like that. Better to find someone who can bend the radius into the steel and bond it to the neck. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 5 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: You're going to have a long slog to get a radius on SS like that. Better to find someone who can bend the radius into the steel and bond it to the neck. +1 to above, you could contract the fingerboard cutting and radiusing to a metal machining shop? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Machining a compound radius tapered fretboard would be incredibly tricky, and very interesting to set up. Probably on the wrong side of expensive as well. I'd try @SpondonBassed metal veneer idea first. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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