Andyjr1515 Posted December 19, 2019 Author Share Posted December 19, 2019 I started by cutting out the external shape using a scroll-saw: Then sellotaped the original scratchplate to this one: And then attacked it with various drill bits, hacksaw blades and more scroll saw stuff to give me this. I'll take a better photo in the morning when, hopefully, there will be a bit of daylight! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 19, 2019 Author Share Posted December 19, 2019 11 minutes ago, scrumpymike said: Seeing your pic, if the original pearloid plate had matched the new bridge I'd have been tempted to re-use it and go for a bit of retro bling 😎 Well why don't I straighten up the original to match the bridge and then you can choose whichever you want for starters and always swop later if you want a change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpymike Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 (edited) I'm thinking along those lines too. The way I see it, the long side of the cut-out in the pearloid plate needs to be a straight line that's parallel either with the bridge or with the slanted bridge pick-up. I guess the best thing would be to try the latter first. If that doesn't look right then there's still the option of cutting more plate away to get the former. Edited December 19, 2019 by scrumpymike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 19, 2019 Author Share Posted December 19, 2019 21 minutes ago, scrumpymike said: I'm thinking along those lines too. The way I see it, the long side of the cut-out in the pearloid plate needs to be a straight line that's parallel either with the bridge or with the slanted bridge pick-up. I guess the best thing would be to try the latter first. If that doesn't look right then there's still the option of cutting more plate away to get the former. Yes - my money is on \\ to the pickup too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpymike Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 (edited) 43 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: Yes - my money is on \\ to the pickup too I have a feeling that the \\ to the bridge option would leave insufficient pearloid 'frame' bridge-side of the pickup - especially at the top corner. (Sorry readers, all this is getting a bit nerdy but, as the saying goes, "the devil is in the detail" 🙂) Edited December 19, 2019 by scrumpymike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 19, 2019 Author Share Posted December 19, 2019 42 minutes ago, scrumpymike said: I have a feeling that the \\ to the bridge option would leave insufficient pearloid 'frame' bridge-side of the pickup - especially at the top corner. (Sorry readers, all this is getting a bit nerdy but, as the saying goes, "the devil is in the detail" 🙂) Sorry - I missed the vital 'pickup' word. I meant to type \\ to the bridge pickup - i.e. at an angle Yes - I quite agree, \\ to the bridge itself would look a bit odd. Never assume what comes out of my mouth is what is going on in my head 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard R Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 Well I was confused as I read " \\ to the .." as "angled to the ...". "// to the..." is clearly what you meant, unless you're left-handed. 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 6 hours ago, Richard R said: Well I was confused as I read " \\ to the .." as "angled to the ...". "// to the..." is clearly what you meant, unless you're left-handed. 😉 Trouble is, this // is going to be this \\ kind of // as opposed to this ]I \\ II ll kind of // and, let's face it, I wouldn't want to confuse @scrumpymike any more than he already is Clearly the best way for me to illustrate to @scrumpymike that I know exactly what he has in his mind is going to be for me to get it in the scrollsaw, cut it to shape and then, if it's wrong I can just... ...oh.... Hmmm....this building by correspondence is trickier than I thought! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 I think this (marked in green) is what we're both saying @scrumpymike ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpymike Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Spot on Andy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 And so the original pickguard modified (I think that looks quite nice : And the new pickguard checked for the critical sizes before adding the ebony veneer: And the ebony veneer ready for me to decide what glue is going to be the best to stick it on with! : And the fretboard dots have managed to battle their way through the Christmas post! So that will probably be tomorrow's job. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 And ignoring what MrsAndyjr1515 might say about the subject, never let it be said that I don't listen, @scrumpymike You have dots 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpymike Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 That's brilliant Andy, love every bit of it 👍 ... and a choice of contrasting scratch-plates too 😮 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 21, 2019 Author Share Posted December 21, 2019 I've got to that stage in Christmas preparations when I am 'JUST IN THE WAY!!' as often as I am useful as far as MrsAndyjr1515 is concerned And so there are snatches of time when I can still make a bit of progress. The bass body and pickguards are getting close to being done. I've started the final finish coats on the body and also added the ebony veneer to the black scratchplate. For the final finish, I am using Osmo Polyx 3032 Satin simply wiped on with a micro-fibre cloth. For sticking on the veneer, I used good old-fashioned Evo-stick (remembering to do it with good ventilation - you forget just how strong the fumes are!) after roughing up the plastic first with some 320 grit sandpaper. This is it after one coat of Osmo on the body and one coat of Tru-oil on the veneer. It will need no more than one more coat for each: The fretboard will yellow and darken a bit when the finish is put on but I think this is going to look pretty smart as an alternative to the bling of the pearl I can see @scrumpymike swapping them round for every gig 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pea Turgh Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 I really like this - excellent stuff Andy! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrinkleygit Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 Looking forward to the next SW bash to see another fine example of craftsmanship 👍 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 Happy New Year everyone Final bits and pieces are on order and finished off the black scratchplate today - added the bevel, the countersinks, etc, and made sure it fits: Once I've fitted the bridge, I'll reshape the pickguard a touch so it sits evenly. Tomorrow's job is finally sanding and finishing the neck. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpymike Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Good stuff Andy, I'm really chuffed with the way this is turning out - and a Happy New Year to you too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 Ever since I worked on a beautiful Wal, I have gained a particular love of machine screw/insert neck fixings and do this nowadays whenever practicable. But, whereas with wood screws you can be a little bit wonky, with machine screws it has to be right! So - in case any of you are thinking of doing the same, I'll go into a bit of detail how I, personally, do it. I first of all make sure that the neck is going to be an accurate, snug fit in the neck pocket. I temporarily clamp it in place and, using a bradpoint drill of EXACTLY the right diameter, push the drill into the pocket holes and mark a drilling datum: I then put a bradpoint drill of the right size for the insert into my press drill and level the neck in all directions by placing it on a fretboard radiusing block. I use the bradpoint marker and double check that the drill is concentric by just turning the chuck manually, then drill in one go. Having decent bradpoints is very helpful here - DIY or ebay jobbies are not likely to be accurate enough for the pin-point to be in exactly the middle of the drill. I use the Fisch ones from Axminster Tools: I fit the first insert - making sure it is absolutely straight as it cuts its thread (I always use the ones with a hex head - never with a screwdriver head). I then fit the neck and check with a torch that I can see the marking dot in the centre of each of the other holes: Then drill the other three holes in the neck and fit the inserts: And then - well, it just screws on OK - it's not a Wal. But it looks 'right' to me. And there is no way @scrumpymike is going to have the neck clap hands with the body in the middle of a performance! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Showing off again Andy??? You make it all look so easy. Happy New Year sir... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpymike Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) Class act Andy, just like my Rascal Mervyn-Lyte Mkl. One of the things that deeply impressed me, and impresses others, about the Gillett Contour basses is the 3 dinky little machine screws with inserts that hold the truss-rod cover in place. As with the Wal, these details really give the impression of quality. Just go steady with my invoice though 😉 Edited January 2, 2020 by scrumpymike 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 1 hour ago, scrumpymike said: these details really give the impression of quality. I couldn't have put it better than that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 Thanks, folks. Always appreciated To celebrate, this evening I got round to boring the tuner holes: And that means that I'm down to a list of to-do's that now fit onto one page (depending on how big the writing is ) Based on that I think I will be surprised if it's not finished by the end of next week-ish. Oh - and final weight is going to be around 7 1/2 lbs...so not bad at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Haven't MM copyrighted/patented the 3+1 machine head styling??? Be careful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpymike Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 5 minutes ago, TheGreek said: Haven't MM copyrighted/patented the 3+1 machine head styling??? Be careful No, I think you'll find that Andy holds that one 😉 Seriously though, I know that Adrian Maruszczyk sells lots of them so I'd like to think we're safe - famous last words!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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