waynepunkdude Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Would sanding scratches out the back of a neck comprimise the wood? I just want to make sure before doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubs Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 [quote name='waynepunkdude' post='396555' date='Feb 1 2009, 12:01 AM']Would sanding scratches out the back of a neck comprimise the wood? I just want to make sure before doing it.[/quote] How bad are the scratches and what wood is the neck made from and how is it finished? Post a pic if you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 [quote name='benwhiteuk' post='396557' date='Feb 1 2009, 12:02 AM']How bad are the scratches and what wood is the neck made from and how is it finished? Post a pic if you can.[/quote] I think it's rosewood on maple, it's a lacquered finish but I wouldn't mind it an unfinished neck. The scratches are bad but no deeper than 1mm. I was thinking really fine sandpaper to get a smooth finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 (edited) I'd have no issues sanding shallow scratches out of a maple neck. If your sandpaper is really fine then you'll spend hours getting nowhere. Start at 200 grit and go thru 400, 600 then 800 or finer, or finish with a scotchbrite fine sanding pad, but don't leave it unlacquered to soak up sweat, grease, beer spills, who knows what. Wipe on 3 to 5 thin coats of Tru-Oil, cure between coats and then buff up with 0000 wire wool. Luverly. Edited February 1, 2009 by Al Heeley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarhead Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Do it, I did with my Jazz and its fine, plays even better. Fine sandpaper until you cant see the finish anymore is what I did, then I just put a bit of lemon oil on, for no apparent reason lol. Plays great now, nothing to hinder hand movement. Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='396572' date='Feb 1 2009, 12:23 AM']I'd have no issues sanding shallow scratches out of a maple neck. If your sandpaper is really fine then you'll spend hours getting nowhere. Start at 200 grit and go thru 400, 600 then 800 or finer, or finish with a scotchbrite fine sanding pad, but don't leave it unlacquered to soak up sweat, grease, beer spills, who knows what. Wipe on 3 to 5 thin coats of Tru-Oil, cure between coats and then buff up with 0000 wire wool. Luverly.[/quote] [quote name='Jarhead' post='396635' date='Feb 1 2009, 09:52 AM']Do it, I did with my Jazz and its fine, plays even better. Fine sandpaper until you cant see the finish anymore is what I did, then I just put a bit of lemon oil on, for no apparent reason lol. Plays great now, nothing to hinder hand movement. Zach[/quote] Cheers guys, I now have something to do on my day off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='396572' date='Feb 1 2009, 12:23 AM']I'd have no issues sanding shallow scratches out of a maple neck. If your sandpaper is really fine then you'll spend hours getting nowhere. Start at 200 grit and go thru 400, 600 then 800 or finer, or finish with a scotchbrite fine sanding pad, but don't leave it unlacquered to soak up sweat, grease, beer spills, who knows what. Wipe on 3 to 5 thin coats of Tru-Oil, cure between coats and then buff up with 0000 wire wool. Luverly.[/quote] I just read that again am I just putting tru-oil on or tru-oil and lacquer? I have sanded it and it is awesome (there are a few knocks still in it deemed them too deep to get out) as far but as you say it will be good to have a finish on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 (edited) Sorry, I see the confusion - I said 'don't leave it unlacquered' - I should have said 'Don't leave it raw, unfinished'. I love a tru-oil neck, much nicer than lacquer. I would not bother with lacquer and if you tru-oil it then there is no need for lacquer. Just a few thin coats rubbed in to seal the surface of the wood. Edited February 1, 2009 by Al Heeley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='397322' date='Feb 1 2009, 10:15 PM']Sorry, I see the confusion - I said 'don't leave it unlacquered' - I should have said 'Don't leave it raw, unfinished'. I love a tru-oil neck, much nicer than lacquer. I would not bother with lacquer and if you tru-oil it then there is no need for lacquer. Just a few thin coats rubbed in to seal the surface of the wood.[/quote] Excellent I'll try to pick some up tomorrow. Cheers matey, I'll post some before and after pics when it's done, I'm amazed at the difference already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 Some pics. Before After Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Good work, young Padwan. You are ready to progress to the next level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='398311' date='Feb 2 2009, 08:44 PM']Good work, young Padwan. You are ready to progress to the next level.[/quote] Cheers matey, this is turning out to be a fun project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 Does it have to be Tru Oil? I can only find Danish oil except on eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YouMa Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Tung or linseed would do it just as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreeneKing Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Tru oil dries to a harder finish more rapidly, eBay is your friend. Pedro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh3184 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 ah memories! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 [quote name='josh3184' post='399254' date='Feb 3 2009, 06:48 PM']ah memories![/quote] Sorry mate I'm sanding them away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Birchwood Casey Tru Oil. That is such a great product for guitars. It's linseed-based but its refined and has driers in it. As it dries it cures to a nice hard protective finish and seals the pores. Tung is variable and can stay tacky for ages. I've used Danish for bodies for that natural oil finish but it doesn't have the hard, resiliant properties of a few coats of tru-oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='399398' date='Feb 3 2009, 08:48 PM']Birchwood Casey Tru Oil. That is such a great product for guitars. It's linseed-based but its refined and has driers in it. As it dries it cures to a nice hard protective finish and seals the pores. Tung is variable and can stay tacky for ages. I've used Danish for bodies for that natural oil finish but it doesn't have the hard, resiliant properties of a few coats of tru-oil[/quote] This the stuff I need? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BIRCHWOOD-CASEY-TRU-OIL-AIR-RIFLE-GUN-STOCK-FINISH_W0QQitemZ350158886271QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET?hash=item350158886271&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1688|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BIRCHWOOD-CASEY-TRU-...%3A1|240%3A1318[/url] Do I just rub it on with a cloth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Yes, and yes. Tiny bit goes a long way. A few drops on a clean rag - rub in. Allow to dry for an hour. Repeat x 5 - 10 - you'll get a lovely sheen built up. Let it fully cure for a few days then buff with 0000 wire wool if you like and rub in a little carnamua or beeswax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='399443' date='Feb 3 2009, 09:44 PM']Yes, and yes. Tiny bit goes a long way. A few drops on a clean rag - rub in. Allow to dry for an hour. Repeat x 5 - 10 - you'll get a lovely sheen built up. Let it fully cure for a few days then buff with 0000 wire wool if you like and rub in a little carnamua or beeswax.[/quote] Sweet I'll get me some of that and get it finished on the weekend, thanks for the help man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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