Finished! Tom's African Build 2

[Andyjr1515]

I've spent quite a bit of time getting the neck pocket right.  Quite tricky as the wood is of uneven thickness either side of the pocket and is wavy!  As such, getting a router to produce a nice flat surface at the right angle was a bit of a challenge!

In the end, I finished it all off by the time honoured method of using school chalk to identify the high spots as mechanics do on metal joints with Engineers Blue.

The added challenge is the brittleness of the wood - if the chisels aren't razor sharp, any cut will ding off a chip, particularly on the edges.  The result of this was a couple of chips at the edges of the fretboard end where it partially sinks into the top.  With things like this, it is a case of either hide it or flaunt it!

So I opted to flaunt it.  I tried a number of options with some black grained veneer cut out with scissors from straight infill:

To an angled infill, with the grain matching that of the headstock (it will be wenge and so will match both the headstock and the pickup rings).

To an angled infill, with the grain direction matching the pickup rings:

Difficult to see on these shots, but in real life this last one looked the best.  

So sharpened the chisels again, honed them, tested them with the 'remove the hair off the back of your arm' test and cut the shallow chamber for the 2mm wenge to fit into.  Cut some matching wenge and glued it in:

 

So the body is now ready to start finishing.  And while I'm doing that, I'll do the final tweaks on the neck profile and sort the trussrod cover (a smallish one in matching wenge) and then it's just a case of waiting for the hardware from Tom's supplier

 

 

 

 

Edited March 24, 2020 by Andyjr1515

[durhamboy]

What an incredible amount of inventiveness, time and effort going into this build.

While I'm sure there is considerable satisfaction from sorting out the many problems this build presents, your commitment to producing the best result possible, while retaining the uniqueness of the hand carved body is outstanding.

I take my hat of to you sir. 

[Andyjr1515]

My normal warning -  I will always describe what I do but for you never to assume this is how it's supposed to be done  

The refinishing of the body has started.  I will be doing a variation of the Tru-oil slurry and buff, but using the thinner version of the Osmo ranges, their 1101.

Other than the full gloss - which personally I don't like - many of the Osmo products are a guitar/bass builder's godsend.  Low odour, wipeable, great finish.  There are apparently some issues with thicker coats (it's a hardwax so can sometimes remain dintable with your thumbnail) but applied thinly, I personally find it an excellent finish.

 

So, other than some kitchen roll to wipe-down, this is my finishing kit:

For the initial coats, I put a generous amount of the Osmo on with a brush and use (proper woodworkers cover your eyes), yes, 120 grit as the wet in a wet 'n dry sanding approach.  For a softer wood I would probably use 240 grit, but this particular wood is very hard.  

The slurry of finish mixed with wood dust effectively fills any pores and small voids (but remember that I am not trying here to end up with a fully sealed, flat, flawless finish).  I finish by sanding the slurry along the grain to remove any swirl marks.

And then I wipe it all off, again (in this case) wiping along the grain.  If I was looking for a smoother finish, I would wipe off across the grain to leave the maximum amount of slurry filling the grain lines.

After the first coat, it looks like this:

I will leave this a full day before the second coat.  This first one will have soaked into the surface and pores of the wood and I want it to have chance to fully dry before I add another coat.

Tomorrow, I will repeat the process, but slurrying with a finer grade (probably around 240 but maybe as far as 400 - I'll see how the wood responds) and again wiping off the excess but leaving it to soak in.

Friday, I will decide whether to slurry and buff, or just apply a couple of very thin coats with the fan-brush.

And for the enquiring minds amongst you, why is handle of the fan brush (Hobby Craft Artists section) cut short?  Because I've decanted a cm or so of Osmo into a jam jar to use and can pop the brush in there after each coat and close the lid so it doesn't need to be cleaned or dried before its next use (because trust me, that's where many of the dust buggies come from). 

While this is drying, it seems to be an ideal time to do the final sanding of the neck! 

 

 

Edited March 25, 2020 by Andyjr1515

[Andyjr1515]

Probably got as far as I can go at this stage.  Other than applying the finish to the neck maple (which will darken and amber it a touch) and fitting the trussrod cover, this is now pretty much just waiting for the hardware.

Just for @SpondonBassed   :

 

The Osmo has come up nicely.  Just one more slurry and wipe with 400 grit and then two more very thin applications wiped on with kitchen roll has given just the level of sheen I was after:

 

The pickup rings will be properly lined up when the final install is ready to be done but this sort of gives the vibe:

 

It's not over until, etc, etc, but I'm really pleased with how this has turned out

 

[Pea Turgh]

@Andyjr1515 that is a stunner!!  I love the way you took something that looked a little “meh” (the body) and turned it in to a showpiece!!

Edited March 27, 2020 by Pea Turgh

[SpondonBassed]

Voluptuous volute.

[Stub Mandrel]

1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

wiped on with kitchen roll

Can you suggest a more affordable alternative? Chamois? Parchment? A page of the Dead Sea Scrolls?

[Andyjr1515]

45 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Can you suggest a more affordable alternative? Chamois? Parchment? A page of the Dead Sea Scrolls?

Actually, with the present relatively insane bulk buying going on, the value is going up even more 

Edited March 27, 2020 by Andyjr1515

[Andyjr1515]

Remember this?

Well, the Hipshot bridge blocks and tuners that Tom ordered from the States just as Covid restrictions were hitting are here! 

That means 'the show's back on the road.'

Got a body refinish job coming later this week too.  Andyjr1515's going to be a busy boy

 

[HazBeen]

31 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Remember this?

Well, the Hipshot bridge blocks and tuners that Tom ordered from the States just as Covid restrictions were hitting are here! 

That means 'the show's back on the road.'

Got a body refinish job coming later this week too.  Andyjr1515's going to be a busy boy

 

Only took 6 months, not too bad  

[mixingwithtom]

Quite excited to see this finished!! Go Andy!!

[BassTool]

More incredible skill from Andy, superb! 👍🏼 

[Andyjr1515]

First job is to sort the positions for the tuners.  It will be based on its sister - Tom's African Bass (Mk1) :

 

The shape and size of the Hipshots mean that I can achieve pretty much straight string runs and still have space for 'Tom's Cutout' between the E and A tuners:

I'll be checking with Tom whether he wants the tuners angled or straight - probably easier to see, given the angled frets, whether or what angle once the tuners are in and before fixing the positioning screws at the back.

And Hipshot, bless 'em, have a bush size that pretty much no standard Forstner bit size fits, metric or imperial (14mm - ever tried getting a 14mm bit?  It's daft...12mm yes, 12.7mm (1/2") yes, 15mm yes, 14mm ????) and so - after many times drilling a couple of mm below and then the pain of opening out, keeping them round and straight, I am investing in the only 14mm bit I can track down (Axminster) and that will arrive on Thursday.

It's then a quick job to temporarily fit the tuners...and that means I can attach some sample strings to position the bridge blocks

 

 

 

 

[Daz39]

6 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

First job is to sort the positions for the tuners.  It will be based on its sister - Tom's African Bass (Mk1) :

 

The shape and size of the Hipshots mean that I can achieve pretty much straight string runs and still have space for 'Tom's Cutout' between the E and A tuners:

I'll be checking with Tom whether he wants the tuners angled or straight - probably easier to see, given the angled frets, whether or what angle once the tuners are in and before fixing the positioning screws at the back.

And Hipshot, bless 'em, have a bush size that pretty much no standard Forstner bit size fits, metric or imperial (14mm - ever tried getting a 14mm bit?  It's daft...12mm yes, 12.7mm (1/2") yes, 15mm yes, 14mm ????) and so - after many times drilling a couple of mm below and then the pain of opening out, keeping them round and straight, I am investing in the only 14mm bit I can track down (Axminster) and that will arrive on Thursday.

It's then a quick job to temporarily fit the tuners...and that means I can attach some sample strings to position the bridge blocks

 

 

 

 

Yes - I had that putting a rawl plug in for a mirror. 14mm plug, had to use a 13mm bit and 'wiggle' it adventurously in the hole. Luckily plasterboard is more forgiving than shiny, on-view, wood.

Looking very nice btw- I've been getting CWS* recently, so good to see build progress afoot.

 

*Clamp Withdrawal Syndrome (unscrew before withdrawing...)

[Jabba_the_gut]

4 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

And Hipshot, bless 'em, have a bush size that pretty much no standard Forstner bit size fits, metric or imperial (14mm - ever tried getting a 14mm bit?  It's daft...12mm yes, 12.7mm (1/2") yes, 15mm yes, 14mm ????) and so - after many times drilling a couple of mm below and then the pain of opening out, keeping them round and straight, I am investing in the only 14mm bit I can track down (Axminster) and that will arrive on Thursday.

The Axminster ones are really good: Here's one I found earlier!!😊

 

[Andyjr1515]

54 minutes ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

The Axminster ones are really good: Here's one I found earlier!!😊

 

You're just showing off now! 

Having said that, I added a little something to the order that may well get me into high smugness territory...

[Jabba_the_gut]

34 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

You're just showing off now! 

Having said that, I added a little something to the order that may well get me into high smugness territory...

I do like their stuff - could spend ages looking though their catalogue! 

[Andyjr1515]

Axminster is one of those places where, whether you are on the web or in one of their fabulous stores, you always come out with more than you intended to buy when you went in 

So this morning, the 14mm Forstner arrived:

...and as a little extra, this:

Happily, it just looks like any other orbital sander....

Anyway, the urgent stuff was the 14mm Forstner that let me drill the tuner holes.

And THAT let me position the string runs:

...and after many, many, many checks for length and positioning, the fixing of the first Hipshot:

And then the other three.  A quick temporary tighten of the tuner bushes and a fit of an old set of strings allowed me to check the spacings and - given there is no nut yet - whether the string runs are as straight as I'd hoped:

I was both pleased and relieved that the strings also go past the pickup diagonal corners in the right places!

So I can now agree with Tom the angles he wants on the tuners (looks like we can copy the African Bass Mk1) and then I can carve the curvy cut-out in the headstock 

Tomorrow, I will also drill the ferrule holes to set up the through-body stringing  rather than the top loading these temporary strings are using.

 

 

[SpondonBassed]

Ahhh.  Back to bassics.

 

[Andyjr1515]

Next is drilling the holes for the ferrules of the string-through.  

There are various ways of doing this but they are all based on the same principle - the strings must come out at the right place in the bridge and the ferrules need to look straight and even at the back.  And on that basis, drilling four holes straight through usually achieve one of those aims but, almost certainly, not both!

So most techniques follow the channel tunnel approach - drill from both sides and meet in the middle.

My particular approach (note - not suitable for all applications.  Normal warning, this is just how I have done this one and not necessarily how it should be done  ) is :

- I mark the positions the strings need to emerge at the top

- I drill small diameter holes all the way through from the top for only the two outer string positions, using a low-runout press-drill to try to keep as vertical as possible.

 

- I turn the body over and mark the positions of the inner two strings at the back with a steel rule straight-edge

 

- I use a bradpoint drill in the drill press, carefully centre-ing the point in the two drill holes and inner marked positions for the ferrules:

 

- and then turn it back over to drill the string holes at their full width.  Any misalignment is then basically corrected in the middle of the body wood  

 

While the bass was on the workbench, I also carved the 'Tom's Cutaway' into the headstock:

 

Next job is tweaking the neck angle a teeny bit to give me full saddle height range access and levelling/dressing the frets

Next week is a bit of a grandparent-on-standby write off, so the more I can do in the next couple of days, the better...

 

 

Edited October 9, 2020 by Andyjr1515

[mixingwithtom]

YES ANDY!!

[Andyjr1515]

3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Next job is tweaking the neck angle a teeny bit to give me full saddle height range access and levelling/dressing the frets

Ah - one job before that which I almost forgot.  And Tom will smile at that because, on a totally different matter we had been talking about this very recently and that should have jogged my memory.  That is, before tweaking the neck angle, I have to set in the saddle blocks so that they don't look like they've just been plonked on top 

Tools used is my Dremel with the precision router base to cut the outline and rough out inside the perimeter and the dinky hand router to make sure the bottoms are completely flat and even:

 

And there, done:

[Stub Mandrel]

4 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Next is drilling the holes for the ferrules of the string-through.  

There are various ways of doing this but they are all based on the same principle - the strings must come out at the right place in the bridge and the ferrules need to look straight and even at the back.  And on that basis, drilling four holes straight through usually achieve one of those aims but, almost certainly, not both!

So most techniques follow the channel tunnel approach - drill from both sides and meet in the middle.

My particular approach (note - not suitable for all applications.  Normal warning, this is just how I have done this one and not necessarily how it should be done  ) is :

- I mark the positions the strings need to emerge at the top

- I drill small diameter holes all the way through from the top for only the two outer string positions, using a low-runout press-drill to try to keep as vertical as possible.

 

- I turn the body over and mark the positions of the inner two strings at the back with a steel rule straight-edge

 

- I use a bradpoint drill in the drill press, carefully centre-ing the point in the two drill holes and inner marked positions for the ferrules:

 

- and then turn it back over to drill the string holes at their full width.  Any misalignment is then basically corrected in the middle of the body wood  

 

 

Excellent advice I wish I had seen before fitting through ferrules to my tele, I drilled straight through at small diameter for all six and then had a devil of a job to line up for the ferrules as the drills wanted to follow the smaller holes.

[Andyjr1515]

Next was fixing the tuner positions - again I've replicated Tom's first African Bass with the bass perpendicular and the treble angled. 

And now I am able to tension the strings, I can cut the bone nut from the blank pictured below to get the string spacing sorted at the nut:

 

[Andyjr1515]

5 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Excellent advice I wish I had seen before fitting through ferrules to my tele, I drilled straight through at small diameter for all six and then had a devil of a job to line up for the ferrules as the drills wanted to follow the smaller holes.

Thanks - yes...gleaned from seeing advice from the many who, like me, have done the same thing as you first time round...