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Si600
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1 minute ago, Si600 said:

Thanks to yer maun @Reggaebass, I've got another one...

What I desperately need now isn't another plane, but some fine pitch saws. My tenon saw is a bit aggressive.

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Nice one si, they really are a great plane , it looks like you got the guide too , a lot of the time they are missing 👍

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It's got the fence and the depth stop. I decided to push the boat out a bit and get one with both rather than the scruffy ones at the cheaper end of the scale. For once, for a second hand tool, the cutting edge doesn't look like a saw blade.

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9 minutes ago, Si600 said:

It's got the fence and the depth stop. I decided to push the boat out a bit and get one with both rather than the scruffy ones at the cheaper end of the scale. For once, for a second hand tool, the cutting edge doesn't look like a saw blade.

That’s good it’s worth it for the better one , the rebate is my favourite plane, I also like my little Stanley 75 and I’ve still got the original box 🙂

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36 minutes ago, Cuzzie said:

Have any of you guys ever used Japanese planes

I’ve never used one but I see them at the woodworking show, the guy told me that the Japanese tend to pull the plane towards themselves and that’s why the blade irons are normally at the back and not at the front like ours , they are nice looking though 

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15 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

I’ve never used one but I see them at the woodworking show, the guy told me that the Japanese tend to pull the plane towards themselves and that’s why the blade irons are normally at the back and not at the front like ours , they are nice looking though 

Aye they look great. Been geeking out on wood working and some of the Japanese practices make a whole heap of sense.

Slight aside but got myself some Japanese pull saws - I am going to try to shape my next body mainly with these before rounding off in the absence of a bandsaw.

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I've renamed the topic, discuss everything now ;)

What saws should I have to start my collection? Gents saw, whatever one of those is, tenon saw, dovetail saw? To an extent, apart from the handles, they all look the same to me.

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I’ve got a gents saw, it’s usually got just the single handle and is very fine toothed, used for fine mouldings and cabinet work where you get very little breakout , it’s a handy thing to have around, for a more general fine cut saw to have around the workshop I really like the Irwin/jack 99, short one like this 

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I worked with mdf for many years, mainly carcassing for kitchens and wardrobes, and because it’s a particle board it will blunt your tools, we used mainly hardpoint saws and tct cutters, the dust is dangerous too, on site we wasn’t allowed to cut it in confined spaces, but it’s been a while since I was on site  🙂

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I looked at Workshop Heaven because Ben Crowe was going mad over the set of Brad points he got from them. Their eyewatering prices put me off to be honest. You can definitely get better quality by paying more, but there's a point where a £115 back saw isn't twice as good as a £50 saw.  In my opinion obviously.

Edited by Si600
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38 minutes ago, Si600 said:

I looked at Workshop Heaven because Ben Crowd was going mad over the set of Brad points he got from them. Their eyewatering prices put me off to be honest. You can definitely get better quality by paying more, but there's a point where a £115 back saw isn't twice as good as a £50 saw.  In my opinion obviously.

I get that - but they had the set of saws I wanted in stock and I hate waiting, I could have gotten them marginally cheaper if I really hunted, but unlikely in my case, I did also get a nice round bottom spoke shave

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On 20/03/2020 at 11:53, Si600 said:

Lookit what I got in the post today, despite DHL telling me one wouldn't be here until Tuesday.

Now I can do one of those perfect restoration YouTube videos :laugh1:

Or just clean them up and learn how to use them ;)

 

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I hope when you’ve sharpened and set them you’ll place/store them on their side so as not to damage the blade.👍

Re saws, my son-in-law gave me a laminate saw, which has a very slightly thicker blade, but the teeth are set ‘inwards’, so it tends to give a cleaner cut.  It’s my ‘go to’ general purpose saw now.

Before Covid, and hopefully again before too long, I volunteered at the WorkAid charity, in the hand tools refurbishment dept, cleaning up/repairing all sorts of hand tools.  These had been donated, and which typically came from ‘Grandad’s shed’.  By their nature, there were some very old, but lovely tools, and some which were conversation pieces, they were so unusual.

Generally speaking, the older ones, once cleaned up, were much better than the newer, built to a price jobbies.  Even respected names, such as Stanley and Draper, have introduced shortcuts, such as riveting on hand-drills, rather than set screws, etc

(I once did a complete renovation on a hammer - it needed a new shaft and a new head.  I did a good job though, it looked like new when I’d finished.......😇)

Edited by Baxlin
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5 minutes ago, Baxlin said:

I hope when you’ve sharpened and set them you’ll place/store them on their side so as not to damage the blade.👍

Re saws, my son-in-law gave me a laminate saw, which has a very slightly thicker blade, but the teeth are set ‘inwards’, so it tends to give a cleaner cut.  It’s my ‘go to’ general purpose saw now.

I always use a laminate saw rather than a 'normal' handsaw. They seem to stay sharper for longer and give a cleaner cut.

I like the idea of the double sided Japanese Saws. But after last years mishap maybe I should stay away altogether. 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Maude said:

I always use a laminate saw rather than a 'normal' handsaw. They seem to stay sharper for longer and give a cleaner cut.

I like the idea of the double sided Japanese Saws. But after last years mishap maybe I should stay away altogether. 

 

 

Poor you - hope the mishap was not too bad.

Theory on it being pull as the action is that you can use a thinner blade because the wood pinches it to keep it straight as opposed to bending when you push it through when you apply the force. Also it’s more considerate for adjacent working as the blade travels towards you when it has the most force as opposed to away to your fellow worker.

Tested it on the feel vs a normal saw - defo smoother cut than a normal, and not too bad to use, takes a little getting used to

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4 minutes ago, Cuzzie said:

Poor you - hope the mishap was not too bad.

Theory on it being pull as the action is that you can use a thinner blade because the wood pinches it to keep it straight as opposed to bending when you push it through when you apply the force. Also it’s more considerate for adjacent working as the blade travels towards you when it has the most force as opposed to away to your fellow worker.

Tested it on the feel vs a normal saw - defo smoother cut than a normal, and not too bad to use, takes a little getting used to

I'd never really paid any attention to them but have just watched a couple of YouTube vids on them and like the idea. I might give one a go. 🙂

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This afternoon I've been sharpening chisels. I got a set of four C&K ones from vintage tool shop that must have been put in a tumble cleaner or something, the small 3/16th one had a tip profile like a bent screwdriver. 60 grit sandpaper to get the bevel back and then finished up on the waterstone. Boring as anything, but they're unusable if I don't just crack on with it.

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Edited by Si600
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Update on using the saws - very positive experience-easy to use to get precise cuts on the wood - I used them and chisels almost exclusively to shape a body from a block of Black Limba I glued together-I did use the router at the end to round it all off.

What was great was after attaching the template to the first rough body cut, it was very easy to take most the excess off to leave the router very little to do and with the thin blade you can get close.

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example of the neatness of the cut - smoother than a Standard western saw
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end result 

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Great day in the sun

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