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1 X 15 Build Pics


lowrentdiscographer
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Title says it all really. The cab is a 1 X 15 built using the EV TL606 plans (see DIY cabs sticky) as a guide, but with a couple of mod's. Some of the pic's have been re-ordered into a logical build order... :blush:

I've been asking a few questions about cab-building, I thought I should maybe just get stuck in...

Base and ports glued:

[attachment=20170:Picture_010.jpg]

And screwed. All mating surfaces are joined with pva wood glue and 3.5 X 35mm wood screws. An excess of glue was applied to ensure airtight-ness off the joints.

[attachment=20174:Picture_012.jpg]

The front and rear 'frames' are mitred, the fore/aft runners are not. Mock up laid out on it's side:

[attachment=20175:Picture_027.jpg]

In the above pics' you can see the main difference between the EV plans and my cab; the port top has been extended to sit flush with the front edge of the top and side panels. I've no idea if this will affect the cabs performance plus or minus, I did it for purely aesthetic reasons, likewise the front edge of the outside port cleats...

More gloop...

[attachment=20176:Picture_028.jpg]

The sides, back, and roof will be lined, but that leaves the inside face of the base bare and woody. I felt some dampening may be in order, so I troweled on some very rubberey roof and gutter sealant. Again I have no idea if this will be good or bad...

[attachment=20177:Picture_032.jpg]

Have carpet will, er, carpet. This is B&Q value cord carpet, with the felt backing peeled off (which came off really easily!)

[attachment=20178:Picture_036.jpg]

You probably noticed the handles are on. I neglected to photograph any of that happening. However I did snap a lovely bit of weathersrip, mid-application stylee. The back of the cab should never have to come off, but if it does, this allows an airtight seal (fingers crossed) without glue...

[attachment=20180:Picture_041.jpg]

So it's covered and the excess is trimmed off. Time to call the undertakers... "And it is [i]just the head[/i], you say?"

[attachment=20181:Picture_044.jpg]

OK, now i failed to capture anything else significant until I'd finished. And this includes fitting the baffle, trimming the front, and mounting the speaker. In fact I had to take the grille off again to take this...

[attachment=20183:Picture_047.jpg]

And finally with the grille on, and my new LH500 perched atop (this pic preceeds the previous pic, iykwim). The grille is 3mm ally. It was an offcut from a local engineering shop, and it shows, so I'll have to sort out something a bit newer and steelier to replace it.

[attachment=20184:Picture_046.jpg]

It sounds, to my ears, well good. Although my experience of amps stops at an Aria AB50 combo, so I'm no judge I guess. I'm happy with it. Also, within the confines of my small 'study' (read "small room where all my 5h1te is kept") the volume control has been used in increments best described as fractions. The speaker is an Eminence Kappa 15 8 ohm so the rig would currently be worth around 350 watts. The amp's rated at 500W at 4. Watch this space...

S.

ps to all those who told me that the cab would be very heavy if built in MDF. You Were Right. ;)

pps I have, since the last photo's were taken, trimmed the front edges of the inner port cleats with carpet, to match the rest of the cab...

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Nice job! It's always good to see how easily you can put a cabinet together that will outperform most of the shop-bought product.

Just a couple of comments. I seem to recall that EV provides two alternative tunings. You should use the lower of the two, at about 45Hz, as this will increase power handling. I've sprayed steel punched grilles with Plastikote or Hammerite black spray paint. It goes on without an undercoat, looks very professional, and is quite tough. It should work on your aluminium grille.

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[quote name='stevie' post='408635' date='Feb 13 2009, 02:30 PM']Nice job! It's always good to see how easily you can put a cabinet together that will outperform most of the shop-bought product.

Just a couple of comments. I seem to recall that EV provides two alternative tunings. You should use the lower of the two, at about 45Hz, as this will increase power handling. I've sprayed steel punched grilles with Plastikote or Hammerite black spray paint. It goes on without an undercoat, looks very professional, and is quite tough. It should work on your aluminium grille.[/quote]

Thanks for your feedback Stevie. ;)

I've just checked and open E is 41 hz (correct?), so I guess I should use the cover as the specs say the usable lower limit is 45hz without, 39hz with. That being the case, should I attach it permanently then I can guarantee an airtight seal?

With regards to grilles, I'm hoping to source something steel that's 1.5/2mm and a bit more holey, iykwim. I'm also thinking about geting some graphics/artwork on there, not branding, but someting cool. And maybe work out a better way of mounting it than some cheapo penny washers! A lad at work suggested that I should get 'Stevey' drawn up in the same font as Peavey. I am also called Steven y'see!

S.

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[quote name='Paul S' post='409306' date='Feb 14 2009, 11:06 AM']Dumb question here with no underlying agenda.

Why?

Cheaper? Or better built to your own spec? Or just because you wanted to?[/quote]

All of the above! I'd say the cab Cost about 130-150 quid, if you buy new that's the absoloute budget end of 1 X 15's. It's not built to my own spec as such, the plans are linked in the DIY cabs sticky, although I have made a few changes. Also, I did kinda just want too, it's MY cab and MY setup, y'know?

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