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Lockdown build - multi scale metal machine


Rexel Matador
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This just occurred to me last night and I can't believe I didn't think of it before. Below is a diagram of a string passing the nut on a multiscale bass (headstock on the right).

The red arrow is where the string technically "ends" according to it's trajectory along the scale length, but the green arrow is the last point where it touches the nut. It seems to me that this in theory would produce either intonation problems, a poorly defined open string note, or both.

What is normally done in this situation? Does the nut placement have to be compensated back slightly towards the headstock to account for it? Or are the slots shaped in such away to allow the strings to exit the nut at the correct point?

Or does it not matter? Looking at pictures of other multiscale basses, I can't see anything obvious, but I'm thinking now that maybe I need to move my nut slot - not impossible, but it won't be pretty! Any input would be much appreciated.

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Edited by Rexel Matador
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If you have a zero fret, the nut can be practically in any angle. I have seen a fanned fret bass with the nut perpendicular to the side of the neck (and strings). If you have time and want to experiment, you can carve the nut the way you want. Should it overlap the fretboard, the stem could be thinner than the top of the (zigzag shaped) nut. Then the string path could be made straight from the bridge to the tuner.

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Unless you have massively thick strings (I'm talking size of a bishop's finger) I am pretty sure it would be sonically undetectable and probably immeasurable.

And even if it was, you could file a small flat at the top edge of the nut with a needle file.   It would be pretty invisible - you would only be squaring off the edge of the groove for half the width of the string.  But personally, I reckon even that would be more trouble than its worth :)

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Thanks - I figured it would be a negligible effect or I would have found more online about it. It did find a close up image of a Dingwall where the nut is sort of rounded over, which might be an idea.

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The lowest string will be a .130, so I might try something for that one, at least. If I mess it up it's an easy enough part to replace.

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In other news, I've started oiling the body and neck. That they will pretty much exactly match my kitchen table is a happy accident.

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As I rather suspected all along but didn't want to admit to myself, cherry isn't really robust enough for a bass neck, but I've come this far so I'll see how it goes. It's not all sappy and knotty like the body, at least. In any case, it's a bolt-on so I can make another one somewhere down the line, maybe with a nice dark fretboard. I could even swap them out depending on my mood 😂

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1 minute ago, SpondonBassed said:

What's happened to confirm that?

That's a great question, because I realise, now you've asked, that it's still more of a feeling than anything concrete. Seems ok today. I've left it quite chunky so it'll probably be fine.

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1 hour ago, Rexel Matador said:

Yes, perhaps a little bendier than others. I may well be wrong - I'm looking forward to getting it strung up anyway.

It will be interesting.

The action of the strings against the truss rod would put the wood under compression.  Unless you could get a significant angle between string and rod to triangulate you might get problems I suppose.

I think it should be okay.  If it looks on the dodgy side you still have the option of putting CF stiffeners in haven't you?

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Forgive the background. I'm pretty happy with the way this is turning out.

There are a few things still to do. The stupid EMG jack didn't fit into the jack plate I planned on using (it's a threaded one, so it's not just a case of widening the hole, so I either need to get a different jack or a different plate. One possibility is to make one from the same material as the scratchplate and control plate, which could be a nice touch.

I'm still waiting for the neck ferrules and screws to arrive because I somehow managed to forget about them when I was first sourcing the hardware for this, but as it has the extra screws under the scratchplate, I was at least able to attach the neck just for the sake of seeing how it looks...

...and also checking the balance, which is perfect 😀, due, I assume, to a combination of factors all absent on my last build: long upper horn, small headstock, body shape that allows the bridge end strap button to be positioned quite high.

I managed to file the saddles to accommodate the heavy strings, which is good. I lost a bit of the black coating along the way, but that was to be expected. I could paint them but I'm not really bothered. This bass will be gigged (if that's still a thing in the future!) so I'm sure it'll be all kinds of relic'd before too long.

I also have a much bigger volume knob on order, so I'm going to try them both and see which I prefer aesthetically.

I've roughed out the nut but need to level the frets before finishing it. Then I'll add the string retainer and we're good to go.

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Still missing a jack plate, but otherwise it's done.

The neck seems fine - just a little truss rod tweak and all is well. The bridge placement worked a treat as well. I put the B string one a little bit further back than the measurements suggested and lined the others up accordingly, and all the strings intonate well inside the saddles' scope of travel.

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The flame on the side of the fretboard looks particularly nice. I'll get better pics when the jack is sorted. Maybe even a demo - build diaries never usually seem to cover what the thing actually sounds like!

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