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Trussrod Replacement


stewblack

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Would those who know like to comment, bu to me that neck construction seems quite unusual with the wood fillet between the truss-rod and fingerboard. Given how thick the fingerboard was, how much wood is there between the bottom of the truss-rod channel and the back of the neck?

The channel is obviously much deeper than the diameter of the truss rod so it will need filling once the new rod is in place.

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2 hours ago, BigRedX said:

Would those who know like to comment, bu to me that neck construction seems quite unusual with the wood fillet between the truss-rod and fingerboard. Given how thick the fingerboard was, how much wood is there between the bottom of the truss-rod channel and the back of the neck?

The channel is obviously much deeper than the diameter of the truss rod so it will need filling once the new rod is in place.

You think maybe fill it under the new rod to give a little more strength to the delicate neck?

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1 hour ago, stewblack said:

You think maybe fill it under the new rod to give a little more strength to the delicate neck?

No, I don't think so.

The Shafty necks tend to be a bit more chunky than the Ric ones.

(The old-style truss-rods allowed the neck to be thinner, because they didn't need curves in the rod(s).)

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32 minutes ago, prowla said:

No, I don't think so.

The Shafty necks tend to be a bit more chunky than the Ric ones.

(The old-style truss-rods allowed the neck to be thinner, because they didn't need curves in the rod(s).)

Not this one mate, the fretboard is chunky the neck like a wafer

 

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7 minutes ago, Ricky 4000 said:

I wonder if there's room to get a two way truss rod in there, or even if that would be a good idea.

It's all fascinating to me...

It's been suggested. I'm going to wait for the Elders Of The Builders of The Bass to pronounce. Meanwhile I need to get digging , that wood won't remove itself.

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25 minutes ago, stewblack said:

It's been suggested. I'm going to wait for the Elders Of The Builders of The Bass to pronounce. Meanwhile I need to get digging , that wood won't remove itself.

Fab.

I should be following your steps with my JHS Vintage maple neck that suffered a snapped TR. It's in a box here somewhere...

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2 minutes ago, Ricky 4000 said:

I don't own a smart palette knife like yours, Stew... :ph34r:

If you have good eye hand coordination you should be able to remove the fretboard from nut to heel with one swing of an axe. 

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27 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

@stewblack - how deep is the channel from the top face to the bottom? 

Not had a great day today so left it alone, I'll measure it first thing tomorrow. Sorry. 

13 minutes ago, Richard R said:

I've been following this while hiding behind the sofa, scared of the damage. Well done @stewblack, both on accepting the challenge and the progress so far.

Thank you  Two things helped a lot. The instrument might be worth a couple of hundred to someone who really wanted it, but it was worthless as it was. Also there are people here hold your hand all the way, makes it far less daunting. 

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45 minutes ago, stewblack said:

Not had a great day today so left it alone, I'll measure it first thing tomorrow. Sorry. 

Thank you  Two things helped a lot. The instrument might be worth a couple of hundred to someone who really wanted it, but it was worthless as it was. Also there are people here hold your hand all the way, makes it far less daunting. 

A good condition Sharfty is worth £500+

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Update:

I didn't rush removing the thin but tightly packed layer of wood from the rout. I found the best way was to secure the instrument and score repeatedly with a sharp blade then tap gently on my tiniest screwdriver. I know it's sharp; I've pulled it from my bleeding fingers quite often. This did the job in no time at all.

P1090113.thumb.JPG.dd476cdae19a73e54ae2867ccf64128b.JPGP1090111.thumb.JPG.9440e77fc95c7d174cd04ba502e00afb.JPG

 

Once I cleaned it I used the same handy tool to clear all the adhesive from around the nut at the body end of the neck. Didn't want that sticking and me putting undue strain to lever it out. I then used my tyre removal technique and indeed my tyre removing tools to gently work the rod free

 

P1090114.thumb.JPG.c098302c0eedf5a10710a71d2458936d.JPG

mm by mm gently and slowly

P1090116.thumb.JPG.f1a6e5c7049ddb3790993107137fdda5.JPG

Et voila!

P1090117.thumb.JPG.ba87a5350a19fff43612f0b52af65cb2.JPG

@Andyjr1515 you asked for the depth at the deepest point. It's 1cm give or take half a thou

P1090119.JPG.7c9737c46ac68a286414f5801dba8d11.JPG

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16 minutes ago, stewblack said:

It's 1cm give or take half a thou

I like a man who will happily mix up imperial and metric in one measurement. 

I always go to whatever increment is closest on my tape measure or ruler, "That's 18 inches and three mil". Never fails to ensure I cut in the wrong place. 😁

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On 13/05/2020 at 20:30, SpondonBassed said:

Good work.

I'm surprised how thick the fretboard seems to be.

The unmentionable bass (looks very similar to yours) that I owned many years ago also had an incredibly thick fingerboard with the same style binding.  In this respect the Shaftesbury is being faithful.

Really good work so far and so rewarding when a DIY job saves the day.  Having recently encountered (for the first time ever) a neck with a back bow I would use a double action rod if you can.  If you need a strip of maple to fill the truss rod channel bed for the double action rod put the dimensions up on here.   

Edited by 3below
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Great progress so far!

Another question @stewblack - in relation to the top face, is the channel the same depth all the way along (ie is it parallel with the top face) or - more likely - does it get deeper the further you go along towards the heel (ie a curved bottom to the slot along the length).  Either way, I'm pretty sure that a two-way modern rod would fit - they are generally 9mm deep - and, personally, that's what I would fit.  Tonetech do good ones in a variety of lengths.  

As @3below says, you may need to put some packing strip in the bottom if it is curved and deepens but we can send you some if necessary :)

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Great progress so far!

Another question @stewblack - in relation to the top face, is the channel the same depth all the way along (ie is it parallel with the top face) or - more likely - does it get deeper the further you go along towards the heel (ie a curved bottom to the slot along the length).  Either way, I'm pretty sure that a two-way modern rod would fit - they are generally 9mm deep - and, personally, that's what I would fit.  Tonetech do good ones in a variety of lengths.  

As @3below says, you may need to put some packing strip in the bottom if it is curved and deepens but we can send you some if necessary :)

 

 

*runs to shed to measure*

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