Trussrod Replacement

[Andyjr1515]

34 minutes ago, stewblack said:

@Simon. is spot on with his praise of the selflessness of Basschatters.

The knowledge you people share so freely must have been very hard won over a long time. To just give it away is beautiful. I would never in a million years attempt this just from watching a youtube video, but with my hand so firmly held I haven't felt the slightest apprehension at any time. A wonderful experience already no matter how things go from here.

Thank you all, and a special mention to @songofthewind who first told me to get a grip and do it, then @Maude who picked me up when i thought I couldn't do it and set me back on the path, @Reggaebass for offerring tools, and of course the Elders Of The Build, Des Meilleurs Ouvriers de Basschat , those who's sandals I am not fit to tie. Thank you all.

Well, to return the gushing bonhomie that apparently is a side effect of covid-19 cabin fever, I would like to point out, reference the following two posts - 

 

6 hours ago, Pea Turgh said:

This thread, and all the contributors, are awesome 👍🏻

and

6 hours ago, stewblack said:

Not all. I'm here too remember 

🤯

that you, @stewblack , performed the surgical operation of removing the fretboard and trussrod like a Harley Street Consultant.  That's pretty awesome in my book 

 

 

 

But let's get back to criticising each other - it's much more fun 

 

[3below]

I eagerly await the next installments of this adventure. The prolonged 'joy' of expanding the truss rod channel if it is done by hand  I particularly look forward to gaining an insight from the Elders of the Build (EOTB) into getting the fretboard back on with perfect alignment (it is currently well above my pay grade, never attempted it). I have a previous build that  I would like to get the board off and back on, after applying some correctional therapy (to correct a detail blunder I made). Vorsprung durch herstellung / progresser en faisant.

Edited May 16, 2020 by 3below

[Si600]

5 hours ago, songofthewind said:

Bruce Johnson on Talkbass has a thread on milling out a skunk stripe on a Stingray (I think) to replace a snapped truss rod. He used a giant vintage milling machine and nerves of steel. I don’t think Stew, or indeed any of us, would manage this task.

What a great thread! Stew, I’ve got a feeling you’re going to make this happen!

I would have no qualms adjusting a truss rod channel from the top on a mill.

From the back? Not a whelk's chance in a supernova.

[stewblack]

38 minutes ago, Si600 said:

Not a whelk's chance in a supernova

🤣🤣

[stewblack]

Alignment of the board ought to be (relatively) straightforward in this case as there are clear demarkation lines where the paint finishes. I just need to remember whether the wide frets go at the body end or the head of the bass.

[prowla]

3 minutes ago, stewblack said:

Alignment of the board ought to be (relatively) straightforward in this case as there are clear demarkation lines where the paint finishes. I just need to remember whether the wide frets go at the body end or the head of the bass.

Now that'd be a tragic mistake.

Phew; it's finished and now I can just take of the clamps...

...hang on...

...oh bugger!

[stewblack]

1 minute ago, prowla said:

Now that'd be a tragic mistake.

Phew; it's finished and now I can just take of the clamps...

...hang on...

...oh bugger!

Or back to front. That would be bad too

[3below]

1 hour ago, stewblack said:

Alignment of the board ought to be (relatively) straightforward in this case as there are clear demarkation lines where the paint finishes. I just need to remember whether the wide frets go at the body end or the head of the bass.

Try  clamping a wet fish sliding about on wet marble chopping board.  Now think about getting the wet glued board aligned on the neck edges to within 'a gnat's chuff' .whilst clamping firmly.  I may be overthinking this one however....  I await the advice of TEOTB.

Edited May 16, 2020 by 3below
Grammar

[Si600]

A jig I suspect for that one.

[Andyjr1515]

1 minute ago, 3below said:

Try to clamping a wet fish sliding about on wet marble chopping board.  Now think about getting the wet glued board aligned on the neck edges to within 'a gnat's chuff' .whilst clamping firmly.  I may be overthinking this one however....  I await the advice of TEOTB.

No - you are not overthinking it.  You have to stop it sliding around  - it's like a skater on ice - otherwise it will slide out of position as the clamps are tightened.  But there are a number of cunning ways of doing that when the time comes

 

[Jabba_the_gut]

24 minutes ago, stewblack said:

Alignment of the board ought to be (relatively) straightforward in this case as there are clear demarkation lines where the paint finishes. I just need to remember whether the wide frets go at the body end or the head of the bass.

The board will fit nice an easily when you clamp it without glue. However, when you add the glue it slide about all over the place; getting it to stay in the correct place is like nailing a jelly to the wall. You'll need to do something to locate it securely. When I've done this with a new neck and fretboard I would drill a hole the same diameter as a small tack in the slot for the nut or the first fret slot and a second hole in a fret slot near the heel. Then I'd clamp the neck and board together without glue and knock the tacks part way into place. This leaves a location hole that the tacks will go into when the glue is applied - when you clamp the glued board and neck together the two tacks are enough to stop it sliding. When the glue is dry the tacks  can be removed and the hole is covered by the installed fret.

We need to think of a method like this for your fretboard and neck that already has the frets installed......thinking......

[Si600]

Prise a marker dot out and pin through that? Silly idea, it'll be over the truss rod channel.

12th fret?

It's got blocks. Abort!

Edited May 16, 2020 by Si600

[Reggaebass]

2 quick grip clamps on the side edge of the neck , one at the top and one at the bottom   would locate the fingerboard, and stop it moving from side to side , this type 

[3below]

@Jabba_the_gut method using small panel pins (I have forgotten what the really thin ones are called).  Tack a pin (not too deep) either side of the truss rod at the neck end and then the heel end (i.e. 4 pins in total).  On a normal thickness board locate the pins between frets and away from inlays,   Not so critical with the Shaftesbury thick board.  Cut the pins down to about 2mm height with sidecutters so they leave sharp ends.  From there on combine the @Jabba_the_gut and @Reggaebass methods and enjoy.  The tacks will have to remain in place since they are now glued in and hidden.

Thoughts gentlemen? 

Edited May 17, 2020 by 3below

[SpondonBassed]

13 hours ago, 3below said:

Try  clamping a wet fish sliding about on wet marble chopping board.  Now think about getting the wet glued board aligned on the neck edges to within 'a gnat's chuff' .whilst clamping firmly.  I may be overthinking this one however....  I await the advice of TEOTB.

 

13 hours ago, Si600 said:

A jig I suspect for that one.

 

...or a dry fish.

Edited May 17, 2020 by SpondonBassed

[prowla]

1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said:

 

 

...or a dry fish.

It's all a question of scale.

[stewblack]

Ok so you've all had fun with me for suggesting something might be easy but in my defence all I meant was that at aligning the fretboard with the neck should be easy I said nothing about gluing or clamping

[songofthewind]

The clipped pin/nail method will do the trick. Don’t listen to the alarmists, Stew, we got your back bro!

[3below]

52 minutes ago, stewblack said:

Ok so you've all had fun with me for suggesting something might be easy but in my defence all I meant was that at aligning the fretboard with the neck should be easy I said nothing about gluing or clamping

@stewblack We are with you on this mission.  You are, with great skill, undertaking a very challenging operation.  Keep the good work going.  🎸

[JohnDaBass]

This has turned out to be a joyous, enthralling thread.

Well done to all contributors. 

(I know I need to get out more 🙁)

[SpondonBassed]

2 hours ago, stewblack said:

Ok so you've all had fun with me for suggesting something might be easy but in my defence all I meant was that at aligning the fretboard with the neck should be easy I said nothing about gluing or clamping

Glamping?  During a lockdown??!!??  Heeheehee no seriously...

We get you.  Getting the alignment is not the problem, keeping it is.  As mentioned clamping in one direction alone does not guarantee that movement will not occur before the bond goes off.

If this was easy, you wouldn't be enjoying it so much.  This IS a cracking thread.  It's good to see someone challenge themselves with due consideration of the alternatives.

Respect.

[stewblack]

For anyone enjoying this topic, a quick update. 

I'm waiting for delivery of my trussrod. I will need to widen my slot, which I intend to do slowly with sandpaper. I'll wait for the rod. As I only want to remove the appropriate amount and not more, that seems wise. 

Once I bung it in and slap the fretboard back on, the next job will be to repair the finish - or I'll be cutting myself when I play. 

I know the Elders of the Build have a plan in mind for reattaching the board, I assume I need wood glue, which I have. But what (if anything) should I get for repairs to the finish? 

 

 

[songofthewind]

Stew, don't fret about the finish repair until you've got the board back on.

Then we can all have a butcher's at the result, and confer about what happens next. You are doing REALLY well. It took balls to have at it with the iron, but you only gone and done it!

Onward!

[3below]

Question: In view of the possible cracks (or finish cracks), would it be worthwhile running thin superglue (or one of the flexible superglues) in the bottom of the truss rod channel before other re-assembly starts.  Hopefully it would penetrate any serious cracks and stabilise them.  What are people's thoughts?

[prowla]

28 minutes ago, 3below said:

Question: In view of the possible cracks (or finish cracks), would it be worthwhile running thin superglue (or one of the flexible superglues) in the bottom of the truss rod channel before other re-assembly starts.  Hopefully it would penetrate any serious cracks and stabilise them.  What are people's thoughts?

Or just the wood glue (I keep seeing the name Titebond, which I guess is a brand name for something generic) which will be used to hold on the fretboard.