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Trussrod Replacement


stewblack

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30 minutes ago, stewblack said:

That was the short one

You can get truss rods in loads of different lengths - probably in 20mm increments from probably about 300mm upwards. What is the length of the truss rod you have and what is the length of the channel from where the retainer was on the old one to the start of the access slot in the headstock?

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1 minute ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

You can get truss rods in loads of different lengths - probably in 20mm increments from probably about 300mm upwards. What is the length of the truss rod you have and what is the length of the channel from where the retainer was on the old one to the start of the access slot in the headstock?

It's all shut away for the night. I'll measure up tomorrow.

I just went to the recommended site and chose the shortest of the two. 

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Hmm - a real Ric is 33.25" scale, as were some of the copies (I have one), but Fenders and a lot of Ric copies were 34", so it looks like this truss-rod may be that.

Apologies if I didn't pick up on that before!

I'd check the distance from the centre of the 3 screw holes under where the bridge saddles sit to the very end of the fingerboard at the headstock.

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We also need to remember in the earlier thread, the concern about getting the bearing point of the rod at the adjuster end away from the thin neck section at the headstock end (i.e. possibly bringing the adjuster further into the headstock than normal), this image gives the idea.

 

NkYQUSbl.jpg

 

 

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For what it's worth, for a modern 2-way rod, this is the range of positions I usually personally work with:

wN4JbAyh.jpg

For the function of the rod, the exact positioning isn't overly critical, but in terms of access of the adjuster and the strength of the neck:

- the heel end ideally wants to be where the heel starts deepening as the neck meets the body.  You want a backstop here too (just a sliver of wood glued in the slot), so that the rod doesn't push in deeper when you push the allen key in from the other end

- depending on the rod design, the neck and the allen key access, I have the adjuster either flush with the headstock end of the nut (yellow) or protruding an amount (blue)

I get a trussrod length that will, hopefully, fit within that range

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I should have asked more questions before rushing to buy my trussrod, lesson learnt.

If my CFS allows me to get out to the shed today I will bear in mind all the points raised, take measurements and pictures, then report back. 

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I have risen from my misery and made it out. The rod sits happily in @Andyjr1515 's blue yellow range without protruding into the pick up cavity. In fact when I line up the heel end of the rod with the end of the fingerboard I can almost adjust it as is without lengthening the headstock rout. 

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However it's all pretty academic now. This little laquer cracks have developed into a full blown split (can see daylight through it). 

I've squeezed it shut and applied a bit of glue, we'll see what happens to it but this is no longer looking viable 

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