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NBD: RedSub Coliseum Fanned-fret / Multiscale 6-string


therealting

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Took a punt on this two days ago on eBay when a B-stock came up for £200... figured there wasn’t much to lose at that price point.

Here she is next to my Dingwall Super P5:

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My initial impression is that it’s insane how they are selling these for £299. This one at £200 is probably as many as many features as I’ve seen on any bass for the money:

- burl laminate top

- roasted maple neck and bound fingerboard

- multiscale: 34” high G and 36.25” low B

- LumInlay side markers

- 3-band pre, EMG45 sized pickups

- monorail bridges

- Gotoh-style tuners

- Black hardware

- red / purple burst, with matching headstock

Now obviously this isn’t a Dingwall, and there are compromises. For a start, it’s not perfectly balanced: the strap button near the neck is only around the 15th fret, and on a 6-string that makes it slightly neck heavy. I think I’ll put Dunlop Dual Design Straploks on which will extend it a centimetre or do - I might also toy with an inset one on the back like Dingwall do with their D-Bird / D-Roc models.

The back of the neck on this one is painted, and there are dust bits in the paint which you can feel with your fingers. Given that it’s a roasted maple neck, I think I’m going to give burnishing a go.

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The bridge alignment is a bit of a mess - the monorails are not in line with the strings, and one of the saddles has almost fallen over. The saddle was easily fixed when I did the alignment - I will probably redrill for the bridge at some point, and possibly replace with gold ones if I end up liking this bass enough to keep it.

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There were some marks along both edges of the fingerboard - these were easily removed with a damp microfibre cloth, but seems strange to have them there. Some of the fret ends are a little sharp - again if I end up liking this, I may have them dressed properly.

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There is buffing compound dust in the neck bolt holes - again easily fixed, but perhaps where they managed to cut corners a little.

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On the listing, it cited to areas of damage: the gap between the nut and the neck, and a dents in the neck close to the heel. Both relatively minor and easily fixed.

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The truss rod relief was perfect, and surprisingly the nut slots were at the perfect height, but the bridge action was all over the place so I’ve given it a quick height and intonation set, and I have to say it plays very nicely. One or two slightly high frets preventing super-low action, but works well for my preferred setup and comfortable to play fingerstyle or slapped with the stock D’Addarios.

The pickups aren’t anything particularly exciting, and the electronics aren’t exactly silent, but it sounds very passable... and for perspective, the Sadowsky preamp in my Dingwall cost me more than this entire instrument shipped.

Going to live with it for a while, and then might try some of the fettling mentioned above. I have the EMG45s and EMG pre that came with my Shuker, so those could potentially go in this; the Shuker could then take the Glockenklang that came with my Sadowsky, and the Sadowsky could have its original Sadowsky pre put back in.

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In conclusion: I honestly can’t believe this thing cost me £200. It’s a very acceptable instrument as it is, and a little bit of work and parts I mostly already have, this could be an absolutely killer bass for under £400 that would probably cost 8-10x that if ordered from a custom builder.

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53 minutes ago, TheGreek said:

Surely this needs to be shown to the world - completely strip the paint and finish it with the same Magic Liquids that @Andyjr1515 puts on his creations..

I was thinking this, but also worrying about why they’ve painted it - have I got a particularly unattractive roasted maple neck? 😂

Nonetheless, the dust particles are somewhat annoying on an otherwise nicely shaped neck. I find it a lot more comfortable that the Ibanez fanned fret sixer I’ve had before which was just too slim. 

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So interesting post but at this price-point the next bass along will have a different set of +&-s requiring an entirely new strategy.... with some not so easily achieveable? I'm still in the camp of an Ibby 1506 which at several times the cost, is likely to have more of a solid fit and finish. Opinions?

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2 hours ago, visog said:

So interesting post but at this price-point the next bass along will have a different set of +&-s requiring an entirely new strategy.... with some not so easily achieveable? I'm still in the camp of an Ibby 1506 which at several times the cost, is likely to have more of a solid fit and finish. Opinions?

Undoubtedly, but then you would expect the ibby to be good. This is a fraction of the price so if you are prepared to put the work in it seems like a good deal.

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2 hours ago, visog said:

So interesting post but at this price-point the next bass along will have a different set of +&-s requiring an entirely new strategy.... with some not so easily achieveable? I'm still in the camp of an Ibby 1506 which at several times the cost, is likely to have more of a solid fit and finish. Opinions?

Absolutely. The QC is evidently bound to be spotty... but I can obviously only relate my own experience of the one example of this model that I’ve tried, so as to give some sort of idea of what buying one might entail for interested Basschatters. Often with these cheaper basses the question is how good they are as is, and how good they can be made to be with a little extra investment.

In my case, I’ve actually owned the similar Ibanez model, the SRFF806, which I bought thinking that if I liked it, I might splurge for the Prestige model with the Nordstrands. To avoid making a loss, I bought it secondhand for around £700 and sold it again for around £700 after six months. The only real problem I had with it (albeit a crucial one) was that the slim neck did not work for my hand, I would start cramping within half a minute of starting to play. I was desperate to love it - it sounded good, wasn’t too heavy, looked good... but with the best will in the world, if an instrument’s ergonomics cause you pain them it’s not for you.

I have played this one for several hours today without any pain in my hand - which makes me VERY happy. Given that an equivalent Dingwall is bound to cost me at least £2k, I’m now happy to put a little bit of money into it (maybe another £200-300, so £500 overall) to see if I can make it something that would be a bargain at £1k.

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Damn dude I've been looking for one of these on ebay, gumtree and the likes recently and can't belive I missed this! 5 months is a long donkey wait by any stretch. I don't suppose by chance you're thinking of selling it on again are you ;) I would have happily payed full retail to save myself the wait.

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8 hours ago, therealting said:

The only real problem I had with it (albeit a crucial one) was that the slim neck did not work for my hand, I would start cramping within half a minute of starting to play. I was desperate to love it - it sounded good, wasn’t too heavy, looked good... but with the best will in the world, if an instrument’s ergonomics cause you pain them it’s not for you.

I have played this one for several hours today without any pain in my hand - which makes me VERY happy. Given that an equivalent Dingwall is bound to cost me at least £2k, I’m now happy to put a little bit of money into it (maybe another £200-300, so £500 overall) to see if I can make it something that would be a bargain at £1k.

Hmm.. thats a shame.

I would like a 6 string but I can't see me playing one much, so this seems like a good idea, I was looking at them the other day. However, a fat neck is a non starter.

I would say there probably isn't 'an equivilent' dingwall, I am guessing it isn't that good. The closest equivilent would probably be the 1506 multiscale, but yes, its a lot more.

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Oh I’m certainly not trying to compare the Dingwalls to this - I have owned three and they are in a different league. But I would be looking at over £2k for a six string AB (I tried the NG six string but I hated the sound of the Darkglass Tone Capsule on the prototype I tried through a headphone amp at the LBGS, sounded icepicky and I couldn’t get a tone I could tolerate out of it).
 

The neck on this certainly isn’t fat, it’s just not super skinny like the Soundgear necks. I have five 6-strings now, should probably shift the KSD...

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Great catch. I got mine 2 months ago. I find dropping the bass to around 3, mids 3 and treble 7 gives the best rounded sound, it's quite good passive too.  

I definitely vote for you stripping the neck.

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1 hour ago, therealting said:

Oh I’m certainly not trying to compare the Dingwalls to this - I have owned three and they are in a different league. But I would be looking at over £2k for a six string AB (I tried the NG six string but I hated the sound of the Darkglass Tone Capsule on the prototype I tried through a headphone amp at the LBGS, sounded icepicky and I couldn’t get a tone I could tolerate out of it).

There is the original Combustions, although I couldn't go for that as I hated the sound of whatever they had. But a bit cheaper.

I would certainly like to try another dingwall but couldn't buy one without trying it in person after the combusion. I assume they sound better, because people really seem to like them.

BUt for a 6 which I have never successfully got on with, it would have to be cheap, and that is right in the redsub territory.

However, think I need to move a few basses on first!

 

1 hour ago, therealting said:

The neck on this certainly isn’t fat, it’s just not super skinny like the Soundgear necks. I have five 6-strings now, should probably shift the KSD...

I don't find them super skinny, I find them normal, so anything else is judged by that. The dingwall was certainly wide. The new EBH is pretty wide for me.

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I like the look of these, but wish they'd gone for a shorter scale 32-35 (or thereabouts)  which could really sweeten the high C /G strings.

I don't care for the finish, but that could be changed.

What bothers me is the bridge alignment issue  (if it's not limited to your example)

Then it's out with the electrics...

That said, it's a good price, even at £299.

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Mine is quite different, bridges are perfect (other than intonation). The biggest gripe I have, which was not obvious initially - is that the neck pickup appears to be glued in place, with the screws being decorative.

I can remove the screws, and it does not budge one bit. I've tried wiggling, leverage, and even stern language. The height does not need to change, but it does appear to create me a problem should I ever wish to upgrade the pickups (very slim chance). I'm sure there is a way to move it, but there's a risk of damage to the top if not done with care.

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8 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

There is the original Combustions, although I couldn't go for that as I hated the sound of whatever they had. But a bit cheaper.

I would certainly like to try another dingwall but couldn't buy one without trying it in person after the combusion. I assume they sound better, because people really seem to like them.

BUt for a 6 which I have never successfully got on with, it would have to be cheap, and that is right in the redsub territory.

However, think I need to move a few basses on first!

I don't find them super skinny, I find them normal, so anything else is judged by that. The dingwall was certainly wide. The new EBH is pretty wide for me.

Yeah, I had a Mk I Combustion and it just wasn’t me. My Supers are much more “it”! Would love a 6-string Super.

Almost all the Dingwall demos seem to have that grindy, scooped metal tone that is all the rage these days. I’m more into old school P tones, just refined and with better balance. This one is closer to the 90s gospel / soul tone a la Ken Smith and my Sadowsky NYC Modern.

And re: neck profile - of course we are allowed our own preferences on feel and everything is relative... I’m talking more about the overall scale of neck profiles, where Ibanez Soundgear is definitely on the skinnier side of the spectrum. 

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6 hours ago, Lfalex v1.1 said:

I like the look of these, but wish they'd gone for a shorter scale 32-35 (or thereabouts)  which could really sweeten the high C /G strings.

I don't care for the finish, but that could be changed.

What bothers me is the bridge alignment issue  (if it's not limited to your example)

Then it's out with the electrics...

That said, it's a good price, even at £299.

The bridge alignment issue is annoying, but easily fixed by filling and redrilling the screw holes. I might take the opportunity to replace the bridge units as it appears that some of the adjustment screws are stripped. I’m thinking that gold bridges with black saddles might look cool - and similar for the tuners.

... and yes, 32-35” would be my preferred scale too, as per my Dingwall Supers. Want to try the Ibanez EHB multiscale sixer once those start turning up secondhand. 

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1 hour ago, Machines said:

Mine is quite different, bridges are perfect (other than intonation). The biggest gripe I have, which was not obvious initially - is that the neck pickup appears to be glued in place, with the screws being decorative.

I can remove the screws, and it does not budge one bit. I've tried wiggling, leverage, and even stern language. The height does not need to change, but it does appear to create me a problem should I ever wish to upgrade the pickups (very slim chance). I'm sure there is a way to move it, but there's a risk of damage to the top if not done with care.

Oof, ok I’m definitely going to check that tonight. I anticipate transplanting EMGs into this, so I’m interested to know if that will be a problem. 

9 hours ago, Machines said:

Great catch. I got mine 2 months ago. I find dropping the bass to around 3, mids 3 and treble 7 gives the best rounded sound, it's quite good passive too.  

I definitely vote for you stripping the neck.

I’ll try those settings. Which pickup are you favouring with that?

I’ve not stripped the neck before... would it just be a sandpaper job?

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For the back of the neck, how about getting some "cutting compound" from Halfords to try and flatten it out. It's kind of like T-Cut Polish, but used to get rid of imperfections in car paint work before either the next coat of paint or the lacquer. Worth a try (and a bit of elbow grease).

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16 minutes ago, Skybone said:

For the back of the neck, how about getting some "cutting compound" from Halfords to try and flatten it out. It's kind of like T-Cut Polish, but used to get rid of imperfections in car paint work before either the next coat of paint or the lacquer. Worth a try (and a bit of elbow grease).

I've tried that on bass finishes before.. with "interesting" results.

I was attempting to cut out some deep scratches in a red-stained flamed maple Warwick. It vaguely worked, but in the process altered the flattish finish to what Warwick would call "high-gloss"

Expect a VERY slippery finish when complete!

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On 15/05/2020 at 19:10, therealting said:

I’ll try those settings. Which pickup are you favouring with that?

Both or neck. Bridge alone can be a lot thinner but boost the bass and it's fine. 

Passive on the neck pickup is surprisingly P bass like. 

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  • 3 months later...
4 minutes ago, therealting said:

There’s a five string on eBay with fairly big headstock cracks in it... probably needs a bigger discount than it currently has, but may of interest to someone who knows how to do these repairs.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353170698395 

This is NOT what the word "crack" was developed for. The word you need here is "crevice", or possibly "canyon".

Alternatively you could cut to the chase and just say FUBAR.

 

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13 hours ago, therealting said:

There’s a five string on eBay with fairly big headstock cracks in it... probably needs a bigger discount than it currently has, but may of interest to someone who knows how to do these repairs.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353170698395 

Yes, how to do these repairs is to replace the neck with one that isn't broken!

So yes, its cheaper at full price

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