Codename: Project Pink-Torpedo Up

[Si600]

Gratuitous mock up photo.

[Pea Turgh]

Perspex body?

[Si600]

I was thinking of spraying some glue in the air and hoping that enough air molecules stick together that they would form an amorphous cloud like shape I could use.

 

I've not sorted a body yet, I've got to finish adding a woodworking vice to my bench first and then I can do something about the body.

This isn't going to be threatening Owen for the longest build, but it won't be far off. I can include the bench build as well if you want 

[SpondonBassed]

Aw.

I thought you were going to draw the body outline on the floor and jigsaw it out.  If you have a heavy enough rug and it's off the main gangway your missus might not ever notice...

Have we now got three contenders for longest build ever?  You, Owen and me?  Who's keeping book?

If @ped wont expand his portfolio further for you with a site called BenchChat, I suppose we'll have to have your bench build here.  If the bench has a bass clef monogrammed on it somewhere though, you should get away with it.

[Si600]

It's about where I stand to practice, I'd notice even if she didn't.

I might. It may help someone out there if I do.

[Simon.]

I think you might have been a little bit over-enthusiastic with the chambering...

[Frank Blank]

I'd be all over Benchchat like a... erm... rug, thrown, hmm, over a bench, like.

[Si600]

Update....

A body has been purchased.

[Frank Blank]

10 minutes ago, Si600 said:

Update....

A body has been purchased.

Hardly DIY is it? You could have dug one up yourself...

[Si600]

True, but in my experience dug up bodies tend not to be great for basses. They're a bit squishy, smelly and fall apart after a while.

 

I did imply, if not actually say, it would be a bitsa.

[Richard R]

On 18/09/2020 at 19:18, Si600 said:

True, but in my experience dug up bodies tend not to be great for basses.

How many have you tried?? 😲

[Owen]

My longest build record is secure. 

[SpondonBassed]

5 hours ago, owen said:

My longest build record is secure. 

I may be your closet competitor in that Owen.

I keep getting distracted from setting up my scratch build.  In gathering bits to recycle and ultimately use in that build, a Frankenbass (the YamaCore) has emerged, as if by its own will.  I have the kindness of fellow members to thank for sending yet more stuff.  I wasn't expecting to find that making a working bass from unwanted donor parts was so satisfying.  I humbly suggest that it's better than buying a kit.

I know our Si (OP) has been setting up a nice little work space with a bespoke bench and a passion for creation.  He's a shining example.  I have every confidence in you Si.

I may be some time...

[Si600]

Our Si has lost a bit of momentum having finished the bench. Though it needs a bit of TLC, it's developed a considerable amount of rack side to side. Fore and aft is still solid so my leg unit is definitely strong enough in that direction.

[Si600]

Gratuitous mock up picture #2.

I have a body 😉

[SpondonBassed]

If you ever get repossessed it would be quite appropriate for the Cardboard City blues.

[Si600]

I'm actually wondering whether I should chuck what I've got on the fire and use the packing as a cardboard cigar box bass.

Edited January 24, 2023 by Si600

[SpondonBassed]

Just now, Si600 said:

I'm actually wondering whether I should Chuck what I've got on the fire and use the packing as a cardboard cigar box bass.

Is it that bad?

[TheGreek]

Headed Steinberger copy?

[Si600]

Le Grande Reveal.  You can either look to see what's actually happening or go along with the gag that I'm making stinky poo up as I go along.

To be honest, I have only a vague idea what I'm doing anyway.

Spoiler

 

This is what I've bought: It's from Rosser Guitar Bodies on eBay.  He's made a very nice job of it, but unfortunately he doesn't ship internationally.  Fourtunately for me, BC good eggery strikes again and @AngelDeVille agreed to post it.  After what seemed like months checking the USPS website and schlepping over to Kiel yesterday to pay the VAT on it I have a body!

I've got some thinking to do now. The neck is a fiver, so it's wider than the neck pocket, as expected.  The pickups are Bart quadcoils and are much wider than the raised portion of the body.  As you can see, the 5 string bridge fits the lump nicely, and the pickup hole is wide enough to cover the strings.

I either get some other smaller pickups that fit the holes, Quadcoils again by preference as I got Kigon to make a loom for them. Or... and this is where it enters the realm of madness.

I cut the body in half along the join and insert a strip (Or three, dark white dark racing stripe) of dark wood, I've got an old mahogany mantleshelf that will do just fine, to make the neck pocket wide enough for the neck and hopefully mean less chopping to make the pickups fit.  They're very long anyway, so the may go back on BC marketplace and I'll get some narrower ones.

 

Edited November 28, 2020 by Si600

[Si600]

How does one measure scale length? From the string side edge of the nut to the crown of the twelfth fret?

Then, not that I'm near this bit yet, from the crown of the twelfth fret to a sort of imaginary line guessing where the middle of the bridge adjustment is?

[Stub Mandrel]

13 minutes ago, Si600 said:

How does one measure scale length? From the string side edge of the nut to the crown of the twelfth fret?

 

Twice that. 🙂

You can place the bridge so that when the saddles are adjusted to be as close as possible to the neck, they are exactly on scale length. Bear in mind every saddle needs to be moved further away than the theoretical scale length to achieve intonation. Ideally the lightest string should need minimal adjustment from the full forward position, just leaving enough to allow for lighter gauges and variation between string types - this will max the adjustment available for heavier strings which seem to be more variable in their needs IME.

My experience is on guitars where the intonation adjustment needed is quite small.  Measuring of another bass is probably a 'good idea' to be on the safe side especially with a fiver where you will need to max the available adjustment.

[PaulThePlug]

Will the pickups need to be sunk in to the body lower than the raised center? If so the raised centre would look like a ramp... with a slight radius on each corner... and the mounting screws won't be 'edging'... Nice...

Neck pocket, how much difference? can't a little be taken off each side and the neck pocket made the correct width that way. especially if length needs to be changed for scale length.

3 n 2 on a fender-esque headstock... rather than ya typical 4 n 1 interesting.

Colour or Stain? Standard Style scratch plate, none or something else? Whole length to include the V n T controls?

Edited December 10, 2020 by PaulThePlug

[SpondonBassed]

4 hours ago, Si600 said:

Then, not that I'm near this bit yet, from the crown of the twelfth fret to a sort of imaginary line guessing where the middle of the bridge adjustment is?

Not the middle.

Think of where you see the most adjustment for correct intonation - the E string.  The least amount is the G.  The scale length is 34 inches.  None of the strings will have an effective length shorter than that.  If you measure with the saddles centred, you lose potential adjustment.

What I do is to set the saddles to minimum adjustment (assuming all saddles travel the same amount).  That is; all saddles set as close to the nut as they can go without loosing sight of the threaded end of the adjustment screw inside the saddle.  You need all of the threads to be engaged for best contact between the threads of the adjustment screw and the saddle itself.

I then measure from the point of contact on the saddle to the nut and mark off the body at the bridge datum to give 34 inches of string length between point of contact at the nut and the saddle.  You then have max adjustment potential for each string.

Edited December 10, 2020 by SpondonBassed

[Stub Mandrel]

1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said:

Not the middle.

Think of where you see the most adjustment for correct intonation - the E string.  The least amount is the G.  The scale length is 34 inches.  None of the strings will have an effective length shorter than that.  If you measure with the saddles centred, you lose potential adjustment.

What I do is to set the saddles to minimum adjustment (assuming all saddles travel the same amount).  That is; all saddles set as close to the nut as they can go without loosing sight of the threaded end of the adjustment screw inside the saddle.  You need all of the threads to be engaged for best contact between the threads of the adjustment screw and the saddle itself.

I then measure from the point of contact on the saddle to the nut and mark off the body at the bridge datum to give 34 inches of string length between point of contact at the nut and the saddle.  You then have max adjustment potential for each string.

I think Spondz has explained it much better than wot I did.