3below Posted January 28, 2023 Share Posted January 28, 2023 I now prefer these in stainless: Although they claim to be self tapping I use an appropriate size tap (1st or 2nd tap depending on wood hardness) and thread the hole they are going into. The nut and bolt insertion method is required. Occasionally I have had to CA glue one in as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 So.... due to either madness, incompetence or just desiring a bass that doesn't technically exist I am trying to make a five string neck fit a four string body. The following is how I currently intend to do it, it's just a POC right now, so if any of you have any better ideas then chip in. First find the centre line of the body. I've taken it from the pickup rout edges, but I may go from the central hump instead. I don't think the body blank was centred in the machine when the body was made so I can't use the join line. Then draw around the neck heel and cut it out. The centre was found by putting a rule up against each side and the measuring the sides before cutting the slot out. Finally line up the template with the body, draw the cut lines and savage it with a chisel. I've not started yet, I want to have another go and finding the centre of both neck and body, and using some card as the template, the paper isn't so easy to draw the bigger neck pocket with. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted February 12, 2023 Author Share Posted February 12, 2023 (edited) Measuring happened instead of drawing around things. I marked two places on the neck and body, measured the neck and pocket at those points, took the big number from the small number, got confused and did it the other way around. Split the difference and marked the body accordingly. Savaged it with a chisel, fifty penced the curve with the smallest chisel I have and blended the result with a small gouge and sandpaper. Lacking a straight edge of appropriate length, a nut or a fixed bridge, a length of dowel was recruited and alignment looks pretty good to me. I put a rule against each side of the neck and marked off two points on each side which I then referenced against the centre line. It seems to be bob on between the pickups and 0.5mm out at the bridge. Edited February 12, 2023 by Si600 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted February 12, 2023 Share Posted February 12, 2023 That looks like a solid result, Si. Good work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted February 16, 2023 Author Share Posted February 16, 2023 What sort of washers do you use on the neck screws @Andyjr1515? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 48 minutes ago, Si600 said: What sort of washers do you use on the neck screws @Andyjr1515? I generally recess them and use stainless steel countersunk washers from ACCU : https://www.accu.co.uk/search-uk?query=countersunk+wahers&page=1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted February 18, 2023 Author Share Posted February 18, 2023 Can you use normal round files to cut the nut, or do I have to spend 90€ at Thomann for a proper set that will only be used once? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waddo Soqable Posted February 18, 2023 Share Posted February 18, 2023 Just now, Si600 said: Can you use normal round files to cut the nut, or do I have to spend 90€ at Thomann for a proper set that will only be used once? We've had this one earlier in its own topic , I've used the little welding nozzle cleaner files, sets are dirt cheap 3 quid ish and are quite up to the job... well worked for me anyway, starting a nut from scratch.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted February 26, 2023 Author Share Posted February 26, 2023 After finding a drill bit that closely matches the radius of the pickup slot (6mm) very carefully mark out and drill the new corners. Have at it once more with a chisel until.... I need to go shopping now before I can do much more, it needs neck screws and washers, jackplate and screws and strap buttons. Finish? Natural or rattlecan? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 Stained natural as that’s some nice grain there. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 If you are a fan of natural then you seem to have a nice grain to show off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 Natural 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAm Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 Natural for the win! S’manth x 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted March 5, 2023 Author Share Posted March 5, 2023 What sort of finish? I've got: Matt, satin and gloss varnish Worktop oil Floor oil Table wax/oil mixture I'm thinking maybe the worktop oil in a slurry/buff fashion ala @Andyjr1515 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted March 5, 2023 Share Posted March 5, 2023 Slurry/buff with the worktop oil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted August 16 Author Share Posted August 16 Has anyone used a pre slotted nut like the Warwick Just a Nut? Not for that price but Allparts have a basic injection moulded version of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 1 hour ago, Si600 said: Has anyone used a pre slotted nut like the Warwick Just a Nut? Not for that price but Allparts have a basic injection moulded version of it. Yes, on several basses. I used the *bay copies, perfectly good. I really like them, it takes out the risk of cutting nut slots too deep. On anything I build in the future it will be my first choice of nut. Someone should make quality nut files at a sane price. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 (edited) 3 hours ago, Si600 said: Has anyone used a pre slotted nut like the Warwick Just a Nut? Not for that price but Allparts have a basic injection moulded version of it. Yes - me too. I've used both the Warwick injection moulded and brass versions and happy to use both types. They are also fitted to the most expensive guitar I've ever bought (a Gillett 6-string) so, if it's good enough for them... Edited August 16 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted September 3 Author Share Posted September 3 I can't remember if I've asked this before, so forgive me if I have, but can you tap test closed pickups? I've got some Delano Quad core ones and I want to know if I've wired them up how I want them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 4 hours ago, Si600 said: I can't remember if I've asked this before, so forgive me if I have, but can you tap test closed pickups? I've got some Delano Quad core ones and I want to know if I've wired them up how I want them. Yes. The plastic cover will be invisible to the metal you are tapping it with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted September 27 Author Share Posted September 27 (edited) I'm baaaaack! Slowly at least. I have spent a quiet hour in the cellar fitting the ancillaries, jack plate, tuners, nut. Everything that can be done without making a noise as our little ones room is directly above the workshop. I've got to the strap buttons and the rear one is easy, it's the front one I'm cogitating over. I had planned to just use a neck bolt, but I need one 10mm longer, and they only come in packs of ten. They're not exactly expensive, but then what do I do with 9 m4x50 countersunk bolts? Build nine more basses I suppose.... So the other thought, as there's no neck plate I can just put it where I like, in between the holes like so: Thunks? Edited September 28 by Si600 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted September 27 Share Posted September 27 Wouldn't you want it as far forward as possible to alleviate neck dive, in which case directly between the two headstockmost bolts would make sense? There is a second issue - with the strap peg on the back of the bass rather than where Orville put it on the upper unhorn, it will tilt forward. I don't know how much, it's something I've encountered on the Hohner B2 which is a rather different body shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 (edited) Although it doesn't have a top horn (Stop sniggering there at the back) there's no reason the button couldn't go in the normal place. It's my build after all 😉 Just been back to look at the photo, yup, the top curve is a long way back. Between the two for'ard neck bolts it is then. If you Google Thunderbird front strap buttons you get some very weird placements. Edited September 28 by Si600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 3 hours ago, Si600 said: If you Google Thunderbird front strap buttons you get some very weird placements. This might be one of the ones you mention, @Si600 , but this is a decent option: https://www.lysator.liu.se/~wizkid/music/thunderbird_mod/ It gets it another cm forward and, because of the angle of the strap exit, it doesn't 'straighten' the vertical angle of the bass quite as much as the 'in between the two bolts position'. But both options will probably work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted September 29 Share Posted September 29 11 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: This might be one of the ones you mention, @Si600 , but this is a decent option: https://www.lysator.liu.se/~wizkid/music/thunderbird_mod/ It gets it another cm forward and, because of the angle of the strap exit, it doesn't 'straighten' the vertical angle of the bass quite as much as the 'in between the two bolts position'. But both options will probably work fine. That looks like a very sensible solution. Addresses both the neck dive and (at least to some degree) the tilt issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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