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Codename: Project Pink-Torpedo Up


Si600

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I did think of it, but wondered whether being so close to the neck may cause the strap to pop off? I can always try it. If it doesn't work plug and redrill. It's at the back, no-one is ever going to see it.

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Posted (edited)

Bridge and neck fitted :sun_bespectacled:

 

Inserts are a barsteward to get in straight aren't they?  I think two or three are actually perpendicular. I used a ring spanner eventually to hold them upright. 

Edited by Si600
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6 hours ago, Si600 said:

Bridge and neck fitted :sun_bespectacled:

 

Inserts are a barsteward to get in straight aren't they?  I think two or three are actually perpendicular. I used a ring spanner eventually to hold them upright. 

What kind are you using, Si?  And how are you inserting them?  There's some tips 'n tricks for some types 

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On 29/09/2024 at 10:31, Si600 said:

I did think of it, but wondered whether being so close to the neck may cause the strap to pop off? I can always try it. If it doesn't work plug and redrill. It's at the back, no-one is ever going to see it.

 

Danelectro Longhorn top button is in the end of the body as per that link and it does make getting a strap on (pack it in) a little difficult. Once there it doesn't want to slip off though, and your bass being heavier would just secure it tighter. 

I have a couple where the top button is in the heel of the neck, which would bring yours forward another centimeter or two, but they are set neck and the heel is deeper more like an acoustic. Would a button in the neck heel put too much stress on the relatively thin amount of wood? 

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Posted (edited)
On 05/10/2024 at 18:31, Andyjr1515 said:

What kind are you using, Si?  And how are you inserting them?  There's some tips 'n tricks for some types 

They're very similar to these: https://www.schraubenking-shop.de/M4-x-8-x-AD8mm-Rampa-Muffe-Typ-A-Stahl-verzinkt-P003788 

 

They all screw in so I'm not really bothered but they were neither easy nor clean to get in.  I think the first hole was too small and I eventually settled on 7mm for an 8mm OD, 1mm or so thread engagement.

 

Another update, the bridge is on, but it needs cleaning, the string rollers are all stuck and the controle cavity needs enlarging a smidge to fit the push-pull pot at one end.

 

Edited by Si600
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On 05/10/2024 at 11:13, Si600 said:

Bridge and neck fitted :sun_bespectacled:

 

Inserts are a barsteward to get in straight aren't they?  I think two or three are actually perpendicular. I used a ring spanner eventually to hold them upright. 

 

Use a rod in your pillar drill as a guide, if you have one.

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Just now, Stub Mandrel said:

Ah I thought you had ones with a screwdriver slot.

 

One option could be a rod with a slot  filed to take the short end of an allen key with the long end sticking out to the side.

 

Or fileor mill  a hex on the end of a rod, then turn a spigot on the end (metal lathe required).

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Sorry to keep on... maybe a flat plate or disc with a hole for allen key. Support plate on a sheet of fairly stiff foam that you can hold flat and press downto steady the insert until it grabs.

 

Or run the insert through a hole in a wooden batten long enough to force it straight. When it starts to emerge, engage it with the final hole.

 

Or tap a hole in a guide piece, even a plain hole would help.

Edited by Stub Mandrel
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I've done them now... one video I saw the guy had just such a thing, like a spot facing end mill, but with a bit that engaged with the screw driver slot rather than a cutter. Of course, I didn't think to try and get one....

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19 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Or run the insert through a hole in a wooden batten long enough to force it straight. When it starts to emerge, engage it with the final hole.

That's what I ended up using the spanner for. I didn't think of just drilling a hole in a support block. 🤦‍♂️

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  • 2 weeks later...
38 minutes ago, Si600 said:

It haz control cavity cover.

 

NG827xt.jpeg

 

 

Have you managed to get the cf edges sealed so that they do not fray?  Not that you'd have a problem if that's flush mounted.  I was wondering if nail varnish would work.

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It wasn't the most expensive CF, I wouldn't be surprised if there was just a facing sheet on both sides and the rest was resin. Certainly there's been no evidence of fraying.

 

It doesn't matter, it's not structural and looks cool which was the point 😁

 

It's filthy stuff to work though, seeing as it's just plastic and charcoal. Black dust everywhere 🙄

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@SpondonBassed I've just been back downstairs to look at it. It's definitely real CF on the faces, you can see the weave change as you tip it in the light. You can also see the layers in the cut edge so I think it's CF throughout. There's no sign of fraying though.

 

It cost something like 20€ for a 3mm plate the size of A4. So even if it's just collar and cuffs that's not too much of a rip off.

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3 hours ago, Si600 said:

@SpondonBassed I've just been back downstairs to look at it. It's definitely real CF on the faces, you can see the weave change as you tip it in the light. You can also see the layers in the cut edge so I think it's CF throughout. There's no sign of fraying though.

 

It cost something like 20€ for a 3mm plate the size of A4. So even if it's just collar and cuffs that's not too much of a rip off.

Remember to vacuum the cavities and work area well when working with carbon fibre - the dust and fibres is/are very conductive...

 

Looks splendid, btw...

Edited by Andyjr1515
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