Si600 Posted September 29 Author Share Posted September 29 I did think of it, but wondered whether being so close to the neck may cause the strap to pop off? I can always try it. If it doesn't work plug and redrill. It's at the back, no-one is ever going to see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted October 5 Author Share Posted October 5 (edited) Bridge and neck fitted Inserts are a barsteward to get in straight aren't they? I think two or three are actually perpendicular. I used a ring spanner eventually to hold them upright. Edited October 5 by Si600 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 6 hours ago, Si600 said: Bridge and neck fitted Inserts are a barsteward to get in straight aren't they? I think two or three are actually perpendicular. I used a ring spanner eventually to hold them upright. What kind are you using, Si? And how are you inserting them? There's some tips 'n tricks for some types Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maude Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 On 29/09/2024 at 10:31, Si600 said: I did think of it, but wondered whether being so close to the neck may cause the strap to pop off? I can always try it. If it doesn't work plug and redrill. It's at the back, no-one is ever going to see it. Danelectro Longhorn top button is in the end of the body as per that link and it does make getting a strap on (pack it in) a little difficult. Once there it doesn't want to slip off though, and your bass being heavier would just secure it tighter. I have a couple where the top button is in the heel of the neck, which would bring yours forward another centimeter or two, but they are set neck and the heel is deeper more like an acoustic. Would a button in the neck heel put too much stress on the relatively thin amount of wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted October 8 Author Share Posted October 8 (edited) On 05/10/2024 at 18:31, Andyjr1515 said: What kind are you using, Si? And how are you inserting them? There's some tips 'n tricks for some types They're very similar to these: https://www.schraubenking-shop.de/M4-x-8-x-AD8mm-Rampa-Muffe-Typ-A-Stahl-verzinkt-P003788 They all screw in so I'm not really bothered but they were neither easy nor clean to get in. I think the first hole was too small and I eventually settled on 7mm for an 8mm OD, 1mm or so thread engagement. Another update, the bridge is on, but it needs cleaning, the string rollers are all stuck and the controle cavity needs enlarging a smidge to fit the push-pull pot at one end. Edited October 8 by Si600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stub Mandrel Posted October 8 Share Posted October 8 On 05/10/2024 at 11:13, Si600 said: Bridge and neck fitted Inserts are a barsteward to get in straight aren't they? I think two or three are actually perpendicular. I used a ring spanner eventually to hold them upright. Use a rod in your pillar drill as a guide, if you have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted October 8 Author Share Posted October 8 How do you turn it then? The rod will either get in the way of the internal hex, or it's being driven in with a bolt as per Andy and Jez's suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stub Mandrel Posted October 8 Share Posted October 8 Ah I thought you had ones with a screwdriver slot. One option could be a rod with a slot filed to take the short end of an allen key with the long end sticking out to the side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stub Mandrel Posted October 8 Share Posted October 8 Just now, Stub Mandrel said: Ah I thought you had ones with a screwdriver slot. One option could be a rod with a slot filed to take the short end of an allen key with the long end sticking out to the side. Or fileor mill a hex on the end of a rod, then turn a spigot on the end (metal lathe required). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stub Mandrel Posted October 8 Share Posted October 8 (edited) Sorry to keep on... maybe a flat plate or disc with a hole for allen key. Support plate on a sheet of fairly stiff foam that you can hold flat and press downto steady the insert until it grabs. Or run the insert through a hole in a wooden batten long enough to force it straight. When it starts to emerge, engage it with the final hole. Or tap a hole in a guide piece, even a plain hole would help. Edited October 8 by Stub Mandrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted October 8 Author Share Posted October 8 I've done them now... one video I saw the guy had just such a thing, like a spot facing end mill, but with a bit that engaged with the screw driver slot rather than a cutter. Of course, I didn't think to try and get one.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted October 8 Author Share Posted October 8 19 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said: Or run the insert through a hole in a wooden batten long enough to force it straight. When it starts to emerge, engage it with the final hole. That's what I ended up using the spanner for. I didn't think of just drilling a hole in a support block. 🤦♂️ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted October 20 Author Share Posted October 20 It haz control cavity cover. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted October 20 Share Posted October 20 38 minutes ago, Si600 said: It haz control cavity cover. Have you managed to get the cf edges sealed so that they do not fray? Not that you'd have a problem if that's flush mounted. I was wondering if nail varnish would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted October 20 Author Share Posted October 20 It wasn't the most expensive CF, I wouldn't be surprised if there was just a facing sheet on both sides and the rest was resin. Certainly there's been no evidence of fraying. It doesn't matter, it's not structural and looks cool which was the point 😁 It's filthy stuff to work though, seeing as it's just plastic and charcoal. Black dust everywhere 🙄 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted October 20 Author Share Posted October 20 @SpondonBassed I've just been back downstairs to look at it. It's definitely real CF on the faces, you can see the weave change as you tip it in the light. You can also see the layers in the cut edge so I think it's CF throughout. There's no sign of fraying though. It cost something like 20€ for a 3mm plate the size of A4. So even if it's just collar and cuffs that's not too much of a rip off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 20 Share Posted October 20 (edited) 3 hours ago, Si600 said: @SpondonBassed I've just been back downstairs to look at it. It's definitely real CF on the faces, you can see the weave change as you tip it in the light. You can also see the layers in the cut edge so I think it's CF throughout. There's no sign of fraying though. It cost something like 20€ for a 3mm plate the size of A4. So even if it's just collar and cuffs that's not too much of a rip off. Remember to vacuum the cavities and work area well when working with carbon fibre - the dust and fibres is/are very conductive... Looks splendid, btw... Edited October 20 by Andyjr1515 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted November 24 Author Share Posted November 24 (edited) Plate of scratch The chamfer is more a round over in places, shows it's hand crafted 😉 First coat of oil, it didn't slurry like I was expecting, maybe the wrong oil? 600 grit and the oil is for worktops/tabletops and has waxes mixed into it. I hope it gets darker, it's too light for my taste at the moment. Yes, that is an original Mate Tools Workmate 😉 Edited November 24 by Si600 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted November 24 Share Posted November 24 47 minutes ago, Si600 said: it didn't slurry like I was expecting Shouldn't the first one or two coats be applied and just wiped off? Successive coats should be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted November 24 Author Share Posted November 24 Dunno, I'm making it up on the fly. From the threads by Andy and Honza, no, I don't think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted November 25 Author Share Posted November 25 (edited) Well. It didn't do what I expected, but with one application of oil at 600 grit it is glass smooth with a few grain ripples here and there. 800 tonight and 1200 later in the week and see what it looks like then. Edited November 25 by Si600 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted November 27 Author Share Posted November 27 Second coat of oil. Still no slurry, and it's now the same colour as my bench! It's slightly darker IRL than my phone camera shows. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stub Mandrel Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 I can barely see it! The chameleon bass... 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pea Turgh Posted November 29 Share Posted November 29 9 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said: I can barely see it! The chameleon bass... 😁 Continuing the theme, innit - remember the image from the first post? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pea Turgh Posted November 29 Share Posted November 29 On 22/05/2020 at 15:01, Si600 said: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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