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Another 27" Short Scale Mini Bass (but with LEDs)


Jabba_the_gut

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12 minutes ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

It is an option I've consider trying as there would be less fiddly wiring and it would be possible to use something like a tri-colour LED for more tarty options! The downside would be more fine routing on the back of the fretboard to accommodate each piece of optical fibre but also to ensure the light from the LED was evenly distributed as not to end up with one side dot being brighter than another. I might try this on a bit of scrap at some point to see how do-able it would be.

Could you have bright dots for 3,5,7,9,12 and smaller ones/a different colour for each fret 

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9 hours ago, Richard R said:

Question: rather than LEDs at each position,  is there any manufacturer using a single brighter LED and running optical fibres to the position dots?  I suspect not, but it would be interesting if anyone has.

 

Yes - from talking to Mike Walsh (Zoot) about it, he has done it that way in the past.

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9 hours ago, Geek99 said:

Could you have bright dots for 3,5,7,9,12 and smaller ones/a different colour for each fret 

 It's 25 years since I did anything with optical fibre, but you can colour the inboard end of the fibre to filter the colours. 

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11 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

Have you any images of the back of the fretboard?

This is the back of it with the LEDs installed. I cut a channel about 4mm wide and 4mm deep which everything sits in and is then glued in place. Two wires then stick out the back of the neck which will be connected to copper tape that makes the contact with the body. I'll stick a photo of that up (if I remember!!).

TVkKJcx.jpg

 

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Quick early morning bit of band-sawing - I've cut off the excess so the neck is ready to trim using the router. Now that it is trimmed, I'm glad I replaced the veneer on the front of the headstock as the replacement is a really nice match to the body wood.

0g4JKHq.jpg

The black mini toggle switches I want for the pickup and LEDs have turned up. Easy enough to get a chrome finish but a black finish is harder to find and seems to have a premium attached - worth the extra though so they fit in with the general look.

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After work and going for a walk wasn't too much time left this evening but enough to get the neck trimmed and the tuner holes drilled. Careful use of templates and  router table - always makes me nervous at this stage as it is the final outline and you really don't want anything moving or cutting were it shouldn't!! This had to be done in two stages due to the angled headstock - template for the fretboard and a second small template for the headstock.

HYkJM2E.jpg

iav9IMR.jpg

Next task to trim the body and start routing that.

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Pockets and cavity routing has been the next task. As with most people, I find it quicker to remove the bulk using a Forstner bit then finish off with the router.

GA4copJ.jpg

I've had five bits of routing to do here; neck pocket, bridge pocket, pickup cavity, battery box cavity and control cavity. I've got template that I have used for each of these before so it isn't such a time consuming task this time!

EAi6Hor.jpg

The pieces of spalted beech next to the body will be used to make the control cavity cover. Always nice to have a couple of pieces for this so I can either pick the one that looks the best (if all goes well) or use the spare (if it doesn't!!).

0WrZDGU.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Next task was to drill the holes for the neck bolt and threaded inserts. I drilled and countersunk the holes for the inserts

pf8l58F.jpg

I always use an offcut of the neck wood to try the inserts in as sometimes they are a bit soft or crack so always good to get the hole diameter right and test it first because this can happen:

fdM6sFx.jpg

Even doing this, one of the insert snapped in the neck and had to be removed.

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I really need to find some better quality inserts - they are absolutely fine when they are in but getting them there can be a pain!! Anyway, got them all fitted and the wires for the LEDs are still intact (they have just been protected by a piece of masking tape).

nz6xrOS.jpg

But once it was done and fitted together it looks like this

V98YqTG.jpg

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So with the neck still bolted on the first but to the back of the neck can be made using the body as a template

29blOc5.jpg

Once this was done the neck was removed and the edges all rounded taking a bit off at a time. As soon as this is done I think the look is completely transformed

Ctnfhze.jpg

A quick fit of the bridge and nut and (thankfully!!) everything lines up nicely

4jdEk1i.jpg

A bit of carving and lots and lot of sanding are the net jobs!!

 

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Getting decent inserts is a bit of a minefield.  Even from the same suppliers, the quality seems to often vary either with their hardness, or the accuracy of the hex slot or with the sharpness of the outer screw threads.  I sometimes find some brilliant ones, then reorder from the same supplier and get the plasticine ones!

Nowadays, I've started using the 'bolt with a locknut' method of inserting them to avoid the breakages you show above.

 

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1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Nowadays, I've started using the 'bolt with a locknut' method of inserting them to avoid the breakages you show above.

 

And that is what is great about these forums - I hadn’t thought to try that locknut method and it may well save the hassle caused by these breaking. Cheers for that one @Andyjr1515!!

You’re quite right about the variability in strength of the inserts. Sometimes you put very little force on the Allen key and it rounds the socket, yet other inserts bought at the same tome will be fine. 

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I've not had too much time spare this week to get on with this but I managed to get a couple of little tasks ticked off today.

First up was making the control cavity cover using one of the offcuts I saved earlier. I kept a few pieces for this as in case something went wrong but I didn't need them as the first one worked out fine. I need to get the magnets fitted to this and the cavity but I'll do that a bit later.

jlcqNvh.jpg?1

After this I used a rasp to shape the body for forearm and tummy. That's all the bulk shaping on the body - now just the sanding...

F4WBQvN.jpg

eM4FCVa.jpg

 

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