Frank Blank Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 1 minute ago, Matt P said: I'd suggest that learning how to properly coil the cables when not in use is the biggest factor in the lifetime of a cable, i have some of the cheapest Klotz cables that are getting on for 20 years old and are still working perfectly as they have been cared for. ^^^This 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacDaddy Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 Apparently expensive isn't always best 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 To be fair, coat hangers are solid wire so should produce a much better quality signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Blank Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 49 minutes ago, MacDaddy said: Apparently expensive isn't always best To be fair I personally think the reason to buy quality cables is because they are robust rather than infinitesimal differences in sound quality. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 (edited) 47 minutes ago, Woodinblack said: To be fair, coat hangers are solid wire so should produce a much better quality signal. Only if they're oxygen free. Edited June 13, 2020 by stevie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_b Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 So exactly what exhaustive scientific test are we talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casapete Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 5 hours ago, Matt P said: I'd suggest that learning how to properly coil the cables when not in use is the biggest factor in the lifetime of a cable, i have some of the cheapest Klotz cables that are getting on for 20 years old and are still working perfectly as they have been cared for. This ^^^ Hate to see cable being coiled up the way my mum used to do her washing line! Quality cables well looked after should last for years. ( I'm sure I'll have cables in my gig bag that are older than some of the people on this site ) 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebadon2000 Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 21 hours ago, Frank Blank said: To be fair I personally think the reason to buy quality cables is because they are robust rather than infinitesimal differences in sound quality. To do a proper A/B TEST you should use equipment of the subject whom is familiar with its sound also in this case playing his instrument. Any other method there will be to many variables and to call these scientific well...... As with my vehicle I drive daily I can tell when something doesn't sound or feel right, you could get 10 subjects whom have never driven my car and there is a good chance they would sense nothing wrong. So scientifically there is nothing wrong until the very slight whine I heard becomes a broken hub on my way to work. I can clearly hear how an accessory[such as cable], new preamp/amp etc effects or not MY SYSTEM/RIG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorris Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) On 13/06/2020 at 13:52, Woodinblack said: To be fair, coat hangers are solid wire so should produce a much better quality signal. Indeed. Whilst no fan of Monster and their business practices - the comparison here is meaningless unless you somehow have a long flexible and electrically screened coathanger...but then it wouldn't be a coathanger would it ? Edited June 14, 2020 by rmorris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorris Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 It's not really that complicated: Electronically you want low capacitance cable with a semiconducting layer to reduce noise produced by handling/movement (more important for passive basses). And good screening - braid is probably best but not very flexible although some studio orientated cables use it as flexibility is likely to be less important than in a live situation (depending on the player obvs:-)) Braid over a foil screen is best in general but I've never seen that in a cable with the semiconducting layer. Practically spirally lapped shields are effective and give flexibility and double lapped shield (Reussen shield) with the spirals in opposite directions give better screening albeit with a slight reduction in flexibility. Mechanically you want conductors thick enough that they aren't fragile so won't break. For connectors - the Neutrik style cable collett strain relief is the best (other manufacturers may have equivalent) as it separates the strain relief function from electrical connectivity and basically doesn't rely on bending a bit of metal to grip a cable but not so tight as to break it ! And then an outer jacket good enough to withstand the working environment . Practically something like Klotz Instrument cable and Neutrik Connectors. Also Sommer / Canare / Van Damme come to mind for cable. OBBM seems to be the best source round these parts. I've found him very helpful previously. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Blank Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 1 minute ago, rmorris said: OBBM seems to be the best source round these parts. I've found him very helpful previously. Although unfortunately now retired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorris Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) 12 hours ago, Frank Blank said: Although unfortunately now retired. Ahh - Okay. was a couple or more years ago that I got some HiCon connectors from him. Thanks for the heads up, Anyway cable advice remains same- Go for quality but just don't get sucked into "audio magick hyperbole" ! Keep Safe Edited June 15, 2020 by rmorris typo 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trueno Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 So... I decided to get some bulletproof cables ready for the post-apocalyptic gigging season... whenever that is likely to be. Thanks to this thread I've just ordered some designacables via Amazon... neutrik connectors and Van Damme cables, and a new mic cable for good luck. I already have neutrik loaded patch cables on my modest pedal board. Now I have plenty of spares, plus my fancy Fender braided cable for home use. Cheers for the advice! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chienmortbb Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 On 13/06/2020 at 14:39, stevie said: Only if they're oxygen free. I hope your tingue if firmly in your cheek there Stevie. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chienmortbb Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 I would echo most of what has been said on here except to say beware of fakes. I am sure that a lot of Neutrik ended cables use fake plugs and of course even Neutrik have expensive and cheaper ranges. I have jusr been given a trade acoount by Sommer and theit HiCon range is interesting. Especially the plugs designed to go with the Tricone XXL and Spirit LLC cables. HI-J63TC-SM I will be testing them soon . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatrickJ Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 On 26/05/2020 at 23:18, RedVee said: I use Mogami Gold Cables,they are a bit pricey but boy are they worth it. I've recently switched to Mogami for both my bass and amp speaker leads. Perhaps a few pounds more than some other brands but far cheaper than anything by Tsunami, Evidence Audio, Vovox etc. Previously I used Planet Wave American Stage cables. They were good too and come with a life time guarantee. I've used designacable for speaker cables for my studio monitors, they don't get much abuse but seem to be well made, and were pretty good value too IIRC. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 Anyone using "locking" 1/4" jacks on their cables, if so what do you recommend? Or are folk generally just looping their lead around their straps to stop them yanking out mid set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassfan Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 9 minutes ago, Al Krow said: Anyone using "locking" 1/4" jacks on their cables, if so what do you recommend? Or are folk generally just looping their lead around their straps to stop them yanking out mid set? I use @obbm cables and loop up through strap if I’m not wireless. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiram.k.hackenbacker Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 14 minutes ago, Al Krow said: Anyone using "locking" 1/4" jacks on their cables, if so what do you recommend? Or are folk generally just looping their lead around their straps to stop them yanking out mid set? Nah. Never seen the point. Anyone who has their cable coming out of the bass and going straight to the floor (if not wireless) deserves anything they get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 When I get my EHB back from being replaced first thing I do will be to remove the locking jack. Really can't see any positive thing in them at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 Thanks gents - that's v helpful! Looping over the strap it is then! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 While locking XLRs are fine, I've always found locking jacks to fiddly to unlock. Especially in a hurry. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 3 minutes ago, BigRedX said: While locking XLRs are fine, I've always found locking jacks too fiddly to unlock. Especially in a hurry. Yeah - and I guess I could see them damaging the jack socket on the bass, in any case, if they get yanked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 34 minutes ago, BigRedX said: While locking XLRs are fine, I've always found locking jacks to fiddly to unlock. Especially in a hurry. The one on the EHB was impossible to undo with one hand, so it involved picking the bass up and turning it round to disconnect. Meaning you stand a chance of bashing it on something. 30 minutes ago, Al Krow said: Yeah - and I guess I could see them damaging the jack socket on the bass, in any case, if they get yanked. And what are you getting? If your bass is connected to a jack plug, sitting on a stand to an amp, and someone trips over the lead, which would you prefer, the jack plug to be pulled out or the bass to be dragged across the stage. Or maybe the cable to be ripped out of the back of the plug? If the cable is pulled out of the bass, you can just put it back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chienmortbb Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 On 13/06/2020 at 14:39, Frank Blank said: To be fair I personally think the reason to buy quality cables is because they are robust rather than infinitesimal differences in sound quality. Hicon (sommer) have just introduced a new plug that has a special clamping mechanism. I have two coming on Tuesday with my order .I will report back next week. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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