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Barefaced switching kit for two10


Stofferson
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Do you mean installing a switching kit or installing a conversion kit ? If the latter, then I've done this.  Not difficult.  Changed impedence from 12ohms  to 4 ohms.  Does involve removing front grill and speaker to install conversion kit.

I've since sold the cab but I still have the conversion kit to change a 4 ohm cab to 12 ohms. Have instructions also if you were interested

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27 minutes ago, P-ZARN said:

Do you mean installing a switching kit or installing a conversion kit ? If the latter, then I've done this.  Not difficult.  Changed impedence from 12ohms  to 4 ohms.  Does involve removing front grill and speaker to install conversion kit.

I've since sold the cab but I still have the conversion kit to change a 4 ohm cab to 12 ohms. Have instructions also if you were interested

It's a 4 ohm that's been converted from 12, but I'd like to get the switchable kit so I can flick between

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I have wondered about this before, but never got around to asking: how does this work?

Surely, if it's a 4 ohm cab it contains two 8 ohm drivers wired in parallel?

In which case, you could wire them in series to get 16 ohm; but where does 12 ohm comes from?

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Someone else will have to tell you how the switch works, when I had them I used 2 Two10's on 12 ohms each. I used 1 Two10 on 4 ohms on its own or with a One10 to make a 2.67 ohm 310. The switch is a very versatile addition.

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5 hours ago, nilebodgers said:

Well, the D.C. resistance of a typical nominal 8 ohm driver is somewhere around 5.5 ohms so 2 in series and a bit of a handwave for cable resistance would be 12 ohms? (although that would normally be called 16 ohms)

Ok, except then wiring the drivers in parallel would give you 2.75 ohms rather than 4 .....?

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14 hours ago, paulbuzz said:

I have wondered about this before, but never got around to asking: how does this work?

Surely, if it's a 4 ohm cab it contains two 8 ohm drivers wired in parallel?

In which case, you could wire them in series to get 16 ohm; but where does 12 ohm comes from?

As impedance varies with frequency I suspect it's something to do with the fact that one speaker is full range and the other isn't.

Speaker impedances are only a nominal figure anyway and since changing between series and parallel speaker connection must change the crossover wiring, that could be the reason for the odd published impedances figures.

Does that make any sense?

Frank.

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1 hour ago, machinehead said:

As impedance varies with frequency I suspect it's something to do with the fact that one speaker is full range and the other isn't.

Speaker impedances are only a nominal figure anyway and since changing between series and parallel speaker connection must change the crossover wiring, that could be the reason for the odd published impedances figures.

Does that make any sense?

Frank.

Hmm, maybe you're right!

Is the "tops-producing" driver actually a proper dual-concentric with a crossover then? I had been assuming it was just a passive parasitic-cone arrangement without a crossover.

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15 minutes ago, paulbuzz said:

Hmm, maybe you're right!

Is the "tops-producing" driver actually a proper dual-concentric with a crossover then? I had been assuming it was just a passive parasitic-cone arrangement without a crossover.

I have a pair of one10s so I can't actually check a two10 but yes, the speakers are identical so I think there has to be a crossover.

Frank.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've just done it on my Two10. Easy enough job with a metal grill. Took me 20 minutes. I videoed it to show that any numpty can do it.

Not sure how it is done with a cloth grill.

My cab was a 12ohm version which simply has a capacitor across one of the drivers (this has to be removed when fitting the new switchplate). There are no other crossover electronics. I understand the 4ohm version has a different arrangement.

 

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58 minutes ago, kevham said:

I've just done it on my Two10. Easy enough job with a metal grill. Took me 20 minutes. I videoed it to show that any numpty can do it.

Not sure how it is done with a cloth grill.

My cab was a 12ohm version which simply has a capacitor across one of the drivers (this has to be removed when fitting the new switchplate). There are no other crossover electronics. I understand the 4ohm version has a different arrangement.

 

Thanks dude, should be arriving tomorrow, mines currently a 4ohm cab, think the video Andy put up earlier covers both!

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